Front lower subframe rotting away...
#1
Front lower subframe rotting away...
We had a pretty bad year here in NY as far as snow/salt and crap on the road. Probably worst year ever for potholes, but I just got my yearly inspection and my mechanic pointed out how bad my lower sub frame is rotting.d I'm pretty worried about it. He said it won't pass another inspection.
Anyone have to replace one of these before? How difficult is it, and what else should I replace while that's being done? Motor mounts? Any bushings? New bolts?
Also would it be ok to perhaps clear and clean the rot, and weld it? I wish I got a pic when it was on the lift, but regardless I know my brother could weld it as he has a lift. I wouldn't mind getting another subframe from aliga or wherever if necessary and doing a proper replacement, just need to know everything I need first part wise.
Anyone have to replace one of these before? How difficult is it, and what else should I replace while that's being done? Motor mounts? Any bushings? New bolts?
Also would it be ok to perhaps clear and clean the rot, and weld it? I wish I got a pic when it was on the lift, but regardless I know my brother could weld it as he has a lift. I wouldn't mind getting another subframe from aliga or wherever if necessary and doing a proper replacement, just need to know everything I need first part wise.
#2
I would say it really depends on what needs to be replaced- and that's really only something that can be determined once you are into the project. I've yet to have the motor out of the SC (motor swap is next winter) but I would suspect you would want to pull the motor vs suspending it while removing the sub frame... you would also need to remove the rack and the entire front suspension- I'd replace and ball joints or tie rods that were questionable at that point- putting the car on a lift prior to this and shaking it down would give you an idea of what you might need there...
My best advice is this- the car must have seen a fair amount of salt and other areas should be looked at to decide if it's worth going through 3-4 days work for the average skilled back yard guys... it's not going to cost all that much in parts if you go used...
NY sucks as far as having a nice daily driver :-(
My best advice is this- the car must have seen a fair amount of salt and other areas should be looked at to decide if it's worth going through 3-4 days work for the average skilled back yard guys... it's not going to cost all that much in parts if you go used...
NY sucks as far as having a nice daily driver :-(
#3
IS it the aluminum engine cradle or the front LCA( rear) steel tie bar that is bad? I got a good used one out of Texas that still had factory paint on it for 122 shipped & it wasn't hard to change @ all. (Rear steel front lower tie bar) Any metal can be welded but sometimes that's not the best solution. What kind of condition is your rear sub frame in? PA sucks for salt also!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bdelong36
SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)
9
02-17-11 08:51 PM