I'm a little hazy on suspensions myself, and managed to turn up a number of decent threads:

This being the most helpful in terms of brand

Plus:

"I may be mistaken but the way I've come to understand it is that the shock and spring together compromise a strut." as per awj

Could someone just drop a quick response as to what all would comprise a total suspension upgrade. I want to include things like strut tower bars and sway bars too.

Struts (combo of springs and shocks, yes?)
Sway Bars
Control Arm Bushings (ala MW)
Strut bar
Control Arms (though supposedly Supra control arms are hard to find)
EDFC (if you're feeling saucy?)
What am I missing?

So what would you buy if you were wanting to compile the total suspension package? I'm not talking the best of the best, money is an object here, but what various things would you replace? Thanks.

(Ignore this question if you think it's too newbie - don't bother telling me to search again.)

 

Martel,

The literal definition of a strut is a shock with a spring that as a package make an integral part of the suspension controlling many times steering and alignment. The loosely common definition is the same. They both absorb shock, control the wheel, and are both purchased a la carte of the springs. So for the sake of simplicity they are interchangable terms but not interchangable parts.

Struts = Tokico Blue
Springs = Eibach Pro Kit
Sway Bars = Daizen SC
Control Arm Bushings = Daizen Control arm Bushings
Strut bar = JIC Carbon Fiber
Control Arms Don't need them if you change the bushings above.
EDFC = Only applies to coilovers from Tein
What am I missing? = Wheels/Tires/Alignment/Steering bushings

So that is about $1500 + $400 installation.

TEINs with EDFC will be $1800 + $250 install by themselves.

MW

 

But we could go without the bushings right pc? Just change the shocks and springs with no problem? Do you have to get Daizens or get control arms to make the eibach tokico work?

 

undefeatedsc3,

When you lower a car, you are changing the ride height but also changing the geometry of the suspension.
As an example, if you hold a round cookie sheet out in front of your body, square between your shoulders, it will be parallel to your shoulders and have zero camber (angle) from parallel.

Now.. Imagine the cookie sheet is a wheel on your car. Try pushing the round cookie sheet left or right a few inches. Your two shoulders which are similar to the upper and lower control arms have now pivoted. The camber (angle) of the sheet relative to your shoulders has changed (unless one of your arms is fake and can come unattached from your body).

This scenario is very similar to the issue of lowering a cars suspension. When you move the wheel farther up into the wheel well, the angle at which the car was originally manufacturered for is no longer the correct setting for the new altered suspension setup. Now, because the SC comes with factory bushings that have slots, the slots are not correct for a lowered car. Hence the slots in the bushings are similar to the ability to shrug your shoulders fore and aft. Because you cannot really shrug them foreward and to the opposite directions, these "control slots" are misaligned. The Daizen bushings are solid all the way around and use a different theory of control. By using a 360degree approach you can drop the car 2.5" and still have a good control over that arm.

MW

 

Ok, I hear ya, thanks for the explanation. BUT, in perspective, (in reguards to the Eibach/Tokico setup), you could "shrug" the arms enough to not need the upgrade right? With only an inch of drop, the "arms" should be able to compensate correctly...am I correct in assuming this? I understand the need for the upgrade with the higher drop packages (Tein,etc.) of 1.5in or more....but if I recall correctly, you can max out the factory camber settings to make this possible without the upgrade. (Im hoping that made sense, as I can see my question in my head but can't seem to find the words.) Thanks pc.

 

Hmm..

Not really. You are assuming that the factory setup can compensate the "shrug" with the sloppy factory bushes. These bushes are so soft that they cannot hold the "shrug" under increased angle. So I would STILL be adamant about recommending the new bushings.

MW