Still havent heard from the people with the master cylinder yet calling them today

 

Please take that aluminum wing off

 

Cant because of the speed the car goes it gets squirrly after 120 mph and need the down force for the races but I still like the look any way when I take her down the street... every one thinks its a ricer and dont expect their a$$ kicked after they chalange me any way... why does everyone dog the spoiler???

 

so still cant get a new master they are being a pain in the *** and dont want to sent me a new one... do not use centric parts master cylinder for sc300, they are trash... just get it from driftmotion they are awsome.... and dont use car part kings either on ebay

 

This will be my guide for when I do this in the summer

 

So as soon as the master cylinder gets here from driftmotion I will finishher up and finish the wireing o/d light issue I have the full trans to ecu and ecu wireing diagrams which I will try to post those too for everyone for a 1 stop shop on this swap any one know years of the diffrent wireing so I can post forall gen. Sc400s

 

if i were to get an SC300 with a W58 and swap everything over, what else would i still need? i wanna put a list together so that when i have the cash i can just buy all the parts i need and just get this done in a couple days with my buddy cz he has a garage and lift we could use. my car is my DD so i can't have it off the road for longer than a few days cz of work, i would probably take a week off or something but even then i would need to get this done pretty quick. i've read of ppl doing a swap in a day by themselves with a lift so im guessing its possible. i just need a definitive list of what i need and how much it would cost.

 

so u would have
Driveshaft
Trans mount
Transmission
Pedals
Master cyl.

You would still need
Bellhousing adapter
T56 adapter
T56 slave
Flywheel
Clutch disk
Pressure plate
Custom lines

Yes it is relitivly fast to do the swap pulling the auto is the hardest part putting in the manual is easy and fast... w pylled the auto and put in the man. Same day plus pulled the man back out

 

So I got the new master cyl. Now I have pressure out the bleeder but still not disengageing clutch still so I have a new slave.. the new one looks diffrent but the same I think it will work its from an 99 comero with ls1 so this will be my project tommorow to find out and fix the clutch not dissengageing

 

is that seriously all you need? that seems like nothing lol. and im guessing the additional parts would run me like $700? and why do i need the clutch and flywheel? can't i use the one off the SC3?

 

No the 1jz bolt pattern is smaller and wont bolt on...
so got the new slave in and now I have clutch yay

 

congrats, so it's driveable now? post a vid of you driving it, let's hear it and see it and everything lol

 

I will do she purs like a kitten and drives like a monster lol I love it... so because of the variable resistance in the solinoids for the auto just a few of resistors between the solinoids wont work... im just going to pull the bulb

 

will the car run differently if the ECU is thinking it's in neutral rather than in drive? i've always wondered that.

 

So I havent had big issues... I have noticed it is a bit sputty or jumpy (in neutral) after shifting to second in lower rpms but other than that no issues... if its in drive it acts up quite a bit but if you ignore all other wireing becides neutral to start switch its ok no big prob... now I need to work on getting a standalone... and I want to pull the engine again to redo the piston rings because I think they are starting to go... I already built the motor once but this will give me more opertunity to put cams and twin turbo it.... wont be for a while on that part again though... thete is variable resistance in the solinoids so getting the o/d light out I a almost imposible, but can be done by unhooking every sensor and plug and putting them all in to the car then wireing to drive gear and to neutral safty, this will put the light out