I'm not asking about a NA/T stuff.

I remember reading a thread (not on this site) (i think it was a russian guy) who converted a GE block to GTE after he blew his old engine.
I think he pulled one of those ball bearing plugs out, drilled and tapped the pads in the side of the block for oil, and then drilled, tapped and installed the oil squirters.

I've done some research on this but i keep coming up with NA/T posts and putting a GTE in instead of a GE.

 

just as an fyi that doesn't make a ge block a gte block... there are a few more differences than just the oil squirters
that just makes it a ge block with oil squirters.
you can put a gte head on a ge block
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...head-swap-info

 

people go out of their way to delete the oil squirters on high end builds because they are actually counter productive above APU levels because the oil is too cool to be squirting on pistons that are so hot, it actually can lead to more stress on the piston.
stock to bpu and a little past they are helpfull as they actually do cool the piston down some without stressing it out in the example above cause the heat difference isn't as great, but one thing to remember is that they are only helpful, and not even remotely close to needed or necessary because the block and pistons don't actually need it, and also there are much more important parts that need oil that have to share the amount of oil in the pan with your squirters and your turbo/turbo's, so make sure your oil levels are always solid on those blocks.

something to consider before you start drilling up a ge block as it is about the most unecessary thing you can do. What would be better off is doing gte pistons just for the proper drop in compression without changing the squish ratio, but strength wise the pistons are similar/same.

But if you really mean no na-t as in adding oil squirters to a n/a block and not having a turbo, well I can't see why but of course it can be done with some machining and elbow grease (the blocks are the same, just different things were machined out on the assembly line).
Also if you add oil squirters you must move to a GTE oil pump which has increased oil pressure to accommodate the squirters vs a ge oil pump, or else you will do the bad thing I mentioned above and starve the top end parts that actually need oil from getting oil, and the squirters won't help a bit at all in that case.

 

++1 on what Ali said.

And to add , oil from the squitters is used by stock pistons because they have oil galleys on the pistons I believe which Forged Aftermarket pistons do not have that is why a lot of the big boys in the 2jz arena take those oil squitters out or simply use a GE Block when making big powers.

 

That is good to know wasn't aware that the aftermarket pistons removed those. I don't think anyone could ever convince me those squirters are needed at all, especially to the point to retrofit them into a ge block, but if you have them on your gte block you might as well keep them till you need to get rid of them.

 

reason i ask is i have GE blocks available, and a a 1JZ with upgraded twins that need more bottom end. I want to go 1.5jz but keep the stock twins and keep it as stock looking as possable, but with more power.

 

More than anything i don't care about the squirters, i care more about mounting the high pressure oil feed lines to the block.

 

^^^ +++ to the above posts from mecheng and Ali SC3!

I wrote a detailed post and the bloody "token expired" error came up and ate it. Sigh.

In brief, OP, I am considering this myself (using my 2JZ-GE block) to re-create a 99% identical USDM 2JZ-GTE. Ali SC3 has been an enormous help to me as with this and I defer to him, honestly. The above thread link is full of good information. I suggest you make your own list and do your own research as this is NOT a final list but it is a rough estimate of parts needed based on what I took from the NA-to-TT head swap thread above:

-Cometic 2.0mm or 2.4mm head gasket (Ali... sorry I need to refer back to the notes you gave me to remember which one. Been busy preparing to move and I haven't had time to sink my head into everything to reply to you yet-- OP, what you want is an 8.6:1 compression ratio using a very thick head gasket and a GTE head. Alternatively as Ali explained you can get about 9.1:1 and still be fine. Again-- I defer to Ali on this)

92-97 GE block to GTE requires (not finalized):
-----------------------------------------------------
-ARP head studs
-TT pressure tank, bracket, VSV
-TT PS pump
-TT ps pump reservoir (have already)
-TT water outlet (check if the TT water pump neck is this part)
-TT #1 water bypass pipe w/2 O-rings
-TT water pump
-TT metal water pipes that go around block
-ALL NEW TT WATER HOSES BEFORE INSTALLATION!
-TT “union” to feed water to the oil cooler
-TT oil cooler
-NA/TT lower radiator hose
-TT water pump neck w/gasket
-TT fan (blades on NA fan will not clear water outlet
-TT heater hoses to and from firewall (check SC compatibility)
-TT electric fan assembly
-MUST locate an area to feed oil to turbochargers (check this; possibly tap union bolt on oil cooler)
-Drill and tap 2JZ-GE oil pan for turbo oil return fitting. Use OEM oil return fitting w/studs. Aluminum is soft and can strip easily
-TT crankshaft timing pulley
-TT crank position sensor
-TT (or 2JZ-GE VVT-i?) oil pump with crank position sensor mounting area
-TT fuel pump w/bracket & hanger
-TT fuel ECU w/EFI2 wiring from fuse box
-TT alternator (NA will not produce enough current) - OEM Remanufactured is best on price
-TT accelerator cable (already have)
-TT cruise control cable
-TT oil dip stick and tube
-TT #1 and #2 O2 sensors
-TT timing belt cover
-TT accessory belt tensioner w/dampener and w/little piece that bolts onto oil pump

As you can see, even if you want to recondition ANY block to make it fresh for installation it's not an insubstantial amount of parts. This list of course doesn't include a 2JZGTE head, turbos with all the little lines and fittings, GTE intake manifold w/injectors and all it's little parts and sensors, and the ECU, resistor pack, igniter, wiring harness and other miscellaneous parts.

But if you're already set with the components above the block then see which route will work best for you.

NA-T builds and straight swaps rightly are a totally different kind of discussion.

 

really good info above.

would have been easier to ask that question first. just start slapping those 1j heads on those 2j blocks.
for the oil pump, whenever you frankenstein a toyota motor you use the oil pump for the block that you are using.
So you do not swap over the 1J oilpump, you use a 96+ 2jzge oil pump that has the oil sensor mount on it (Cause you need a GE pump and you need the crank sensor type of oil pump cause GTE electronics use that sensor and have no distributor), and you use the 1JZ crank gear.
oil feed line you use a vvti 2jzge union bolt that holds the oil filter on. on those models they have an extra sensor mounted there, that you can tap and use as an oil feed line for your turbo or in this case turbo's, that is the easiest place to get an oil feed on the 2JZGE.

 

Only Stock GTE pistons really benefit and are designed for squirters aftermarket pistons have no allowance for them and as others have stated big powered J cars typically remove them from the equation or use GE blocks. As they can actually cause other issues in fully built high PSI #'s like me 40 +psi

 

all in all
the only advanatage that the gte truly has over the ge is that is comes factory distributorless so that you don't have the hassle of doing the CoP conversion or the benefit of being able to have a 4" intake that doesn't make love to the distributor cap.
dave-h back in the day (yes I spend my time looking at super old post) made over 1000 hp on a ge block.
they are just as strong internally as the gte, but are way cheaper and more abundant.
I never understood why people would do the gte swap when they end up going single turbo anyways...

 

This is non VVTi
Why swap GE pump parts on it. I recall the pumps are different in the turbo model.
Why not strip the 2 blocks bare, Drill and tap the -GE block, Swap the 1JZ stuff (oil, pump etc) use the forged-ge rods and the 1J pistons. Use a GTE head gasket, weld and drill the 1JZ head, use the 1JZ water pump with the -GE housing extention. Use the 1JZ upper and lower pans, THEN re assemble like it's a 1J,

 

Most of the time I'd agree if 550+ horsepower is what is desired. The rest of the time I think some people just like to start with a complete JDM engine as a base and start changing things from there. But you do end up in the same situation no matter which engine you start with once you cross the 500hp mark.

Cali emission testing is my reason and for most I think the logic in going that route at all doesn't apply given how limiting it is but no regrets here. I'm not looking for the power numbers mentioned above.

 

ge does not have oil squirters. the gte pump flows more because of the oil squirters, so if you use a ge block and you don't want to keep replacing your front and rear main seal every 5k miles like everyone in the past who has tried to use a gte pump on a ge bloock. The right thing to do is use a ge pump on a ge block, unless you do install oil squirters, then you can use a gte pump but as far as I know no one has ever done that.

plus you would tear down 2 good bottom ends to make 1 frankenstein, wheres someone can use that 1j block if you don't rip it apart. you can go for it but generally speaking you can just put a 1jz head on a 2jzge block with a gte gasket and use a 96+ 2jzge oil pump, without ever having to mess with the bottom end, have a good compression ratio, and not a whole lot of fuss.

what are you drilling and welding the 1jz head for anyways?
The answer to your question is simple though, no one has taken the time to do what you are proposing, everyone just uses the ge block as is or maybe gte pistons in it, never heard of drilling a ge block for oil squirters or seen one ever. the time would be better spend on a built bottom end I feel but let us know how it goes if you do it though.

 

I read a thread on supraforums on putting a gte head on a ge motor without having a complete gte motor on hand is a real pain in the butt. Like if you blow your motor and you need a new block since GE are rather cheap its a easy task, but if you have a GE and wanna put a gte head on it the amount of work that goes into it seems wasted. I would rather make a cam sensor bung and have it welded on the ge head if you wanna use gte cams and make a plug for the distrubitor. A ge motor is just as capable and plentiful for that matter. Just my two cents. Now a VVTi 2jzgte is a different story...