Hey guys! So I'm not very active on the forums, I'm more of a spectator than anything, but I have decided to share my recent upgrades with you guys. So they are more of aesthetic upgrades, but I upgraded the following light to LEDs: city lights, side markers, license plate, trunk, dome and map, courtesy, ignition ring, glove box, cigarette lighter, and vanity. Those were the easy ones to change. I also upgraded all of the lights that are found in the center console including the stereo and ac lighting and back lighting. those were a PITA to do because i didn't realize I needed resistors and blew out 4 of the bulbs the whole thing took a little more than 2 weeks due to the holiday season. I have included pictures and my sources for the lights below.


The following came from Luxury Mods:

- city lights
- side markers
- license plate
- trunk
- dome
- map
- courtesy
- ignition ring
- glove box
- cigarette lighter
- vanity

The following I ordered from Super Bright Leds: (all bulbs were ordered in Cool White)

Hazard lights: Neox Bulb 3 mm (x1)
Volume/Temp *****: Neox Bulb 3 mm (x4)
ETC Switch: Neox Bulb 3 mm (x2)
ODO/Mode/Time Panel: Neox Bulb 3 mm (x1)
Gear Selector: Neox Bulb 5 mm (x2)

*Credit goes to 1JZPWRD for the info on those bulbs from his thread*

Climate Control: Neox Bulb 5 mm (x3), 5 mm Component LED (x3)
Stereo: 5 mm Component LED (x2), 3 mm Component LED (x16)

Both the Stereo and Climate Control Component LEDs Required the following resistors:

100 Ohm 1/8 Watt Resistor (3 mm LEDs) [x16]
220 Ohm 1/8 Watt Resistor (5 mm LEDs) [x5]

Resistors can be purchased at your local Radio Shack or similar stores. They're real cheap too.

 

I like the brightness of the LEDs, looks good. I have a 1992 sc400 I'm restoring, can you explain what the resistors do and how and where you installed them? Was it difficult?
Thanks

 

When you installed an LED in the ODO/Mode/Time Panel, did it turn out blue?

 

Well my problem was when I soldered the bulbs onto the stereo board the lights kept blowing out, so pretty much what was happening was that there was too much current passing through that bulb so I bought the resistors to prevent any more bulbs from blowing. So pretty much the purpose of the resistor is to limit the current flowing through the led to prevent it from being destroyed and therefore allow it to sustain a visible light.
If anyone else can explain that better please do, physics is not my area of expertise haha.

The way I installed the resistors and LEDs was I took the light, cut the positive side to the desired length, cut the resistor at the desired length and soldered the two ends together making sure the gold band on the resistor is the furthest away from the bulb. After that it was a matter of determining the polarity and then you just solder them on to the board and you're done.
The process was more time consuming than difficult, because you have to figure out the polarity of the bulbs. Probably the hardest part were the lights in the bass, treb, mid, bal, and fade ***** because the wires have to be bent at a 90 degree angle to be soldered into the board.


Yeah unfortunately it did, I believe there's a tint inside since the original factory bulb didn't produce a traditional white light. I tried to counter that using an amber LED but it didn't work out as I planned, so blue is fine I guess.

 

I am glad I finally got some credit on here. JK. The mods are a tasteful upgrade and far better than the stock bulbs. They look great !!

 

Haha I believe credit should be given where it is due! Lol thanks man I spent hours trying to figure out the stereo and climate control! But I feel it was worth it.

 

That looks good my friend. I need to complete my interior lighting as well