Post pics of how you welded the banjo please

 

Tomorrow I'll post up all the pics and stuff but I was able to get it sealed up with just a solid bolt and the oem banjo. I dumped half a gallon water in the tank and angled it such that the feed and return areas were well submerged and it stayed bone dry under for a good 30-45 minutes. I sloshed it around and did my best to get it to leak but nothing did.

My pump bracket did not arrive in time so i didn't get much done with plumbing around the tank but I did get the regulator replumbed and the fittings on the rail swapped out and the old lines removed. Got something slick planned but material wont be in until tuesday so mums the word until i got something to show on that.

 

So got started on fuel system last night and here's the pics as promised. This is what it takes to plumb a 1000rwhp on E85 fuel system in an SC. Fork over the GDP of a small island nation to Summit and they'll send you a box like this.



I had the tank pulled already and this what the trunk looks like without it.


This is what the famous banjo bolt fitting looks like




This is the feed line. a bit of nylon fuel line to a 14mm fitting. Mine required a vice and my not inconsiderable strength to get fitting apart.


The return and vent fittings are simple barbed / rubber hose since they are under no or very little pressure.



Here's a shot of the inside of the tank where you can see the other side of where these fittings attach. This is also proof the solid bolt doesn't leak, you can see the water i had in there for testing it.


This is the proper way to assemble the fitting. washer on BOTH sides! this is with the hollow bolt as this is the vent fitting. M12x1.25x35 were the bolts I used.


Here's what you see when you pull the hanger hat off (the one that you access from behind the rear seat. That rubber hose connects the feed that's attached to the hanger to the feed that loops around and down to the banjo bolt fitting on the bottom of the tank. It's separated here because the hanger is coming out and to drain the fuel lines.


Here we are with the hanger removed, peering in to see the return line dumping into the slosh pan. I threw a vac block off over the tube so i dont scratch myself reaching in. You can also cap it off this way to prevent any gas from getting in the tube. Doesn't matter if you have solid bolt in the banjo fitting but if you don't, capping this and the return will stop fuel from getting out.



Size of the oem hardline inside the tank, pretty puny


Here's the hanger after stripping it down to bare. Drilled out the rivets holding the ground and the noise filter as i will not be needing them. I also cut off the feed line tube that was welded on as I will not be needing that. Ready to mount my pump bracket when it gets in.





The rest of the night was spent fishing the old hardlines out of the car and replumbing my regulator so more pictures to come once I get a little further and I'll show how i mount the bulkheads and such but this should answer a lot of the tank questions out there.

 

this is gold right here. please keep this updated

 

i am doing the exact same steps right now, removed the lines at this point and will be welding the tubes on the banjo fittings shut instead of wending the tank itself. what are you doing with the vent line?

 

The vent line I'll keep intact. Whether I reuse the oem line up to the front or not I'm not sure. Depending on how I fab up my catch can will determine if I keep the oem charcoal canister or not. I may try just putting a filter on it and tying it up to the rear subframe.

Why bother welding the banjo shut? A solid bolt negates the need for welding at all.

 

Small update, a little progress. My pump bracket came in so got the hanger modded to accept it and got the pump plumbed and wired inside the tank. I had found some tubing that supposedly will work fine but I think i'm going to replace it with some PTFE line I found from Radium Engineering. The Racetronix stuff is 5/16 ID and this is 3/8" which is what the Walbro 416 E85 pump needs.







You can see I had to grind out a little channel for the bracket to sit flat.



How it sits down in the tank. (thanks to lexforlife for pics he posted about this setup, i just duplicated what he did)



Here's a slick little idea I came up with to make electrical bulk heads. Take a nylon bolt, nut and washers, drill out the center, thread in a stainless rod and there you have it. I happen to have a drill press which made the job CAKE




Heres my return bulk head fitting. -6AN 90 degree. I put a neoprene washer down and a fender washer to make for a fume proof (hopefully) seal.



Inside the tank. Using some aluminum tubing that I flared with a tube sleeve and nut to attach to the bulkhead fitting. Yes bare Aluminum is not E85 compatible but the rate at which is corrodes is tiny and its just a return line. I went this route so I could route the tubing into the slosh pan without having to tie it to anything else.





Here you can see the feed bulkhead which is a -8AN 90 degree. It's set up the same way as the return but without the fender washer as the shoulder on this fitting was larger than the -6AN one. I'll probably put a fender washer on it anyway when I swap out the in tank line just to make myself feel better. Also shown is the electric bulkheads installed.



Heres the wiring. Some ring terminals and nylon lock washer.



Last pic of the day.

 

I've decided I'm going to change out my in tank lines. I found some submersible PTFE line. only place i could find it and it seems like this is probably ordered in bulk from a military or aircraft parts provider. Only one i could find that came in 3/8 inner diameter and that's whats needed to get over the Walbro 416. Its 20 bucks for a 13" section but I know I will not have to worry about it ever and it at least it comes with the right clamps. I wish i could have got the racetronix lines since they're only $5 or so but they're too small. Gotta pay to play.

https://www.radiumauto.com/Submersib...bing-P672.aspx

Hope to get them installed this weekend and get the tank back in the car.

 

Changed the in tank line out. The new line was a real pain to fit over the barbs but a little heat got the job done. Tank is reinstalled in car and i spent a little time making my prototype line holders. Here's the final result after alot of time behind the drill press and band saw.







Not exactly the fit and finish of the $200 set from PHR but also only paid like 27 bucks for the 3' long bar stock. Just gotta machine up the rest and be good to go.

 

Any updates?

 

Not really. I've been tied up or traveling so no time for car. I did get some line plumbed but nothing major. Hopefully next weekend get it running.