by refresh the engine I'm assuming you mean a rebuild? And Based on the engine knowledge you've demonstrated, I'm assuming you would be having a shop do this? Give or take the 5k its gonna cost you, you may as well just swap in a 1jz, or sell the sc and buy something boosted from the factory

Sell the SC and get a GS400.

Hahaha^ not like the supercharged v6 he's gonna race will be.

OP, down waste your money on pulleys and jet ecu and whatever else you listed. Either spend that money fixing leaks or buy a new car. You'd be better off buying food for your kids than what you listed, as any modification to an na 2j is a complete waste of time/money if its not boost.

If you really are on a budget, I highly suggest buying that mustang. Wait til you need fl ball joints. Which you probably do now. You're gonna like that a lot.

And if your car is auto, don't spray it. Sell it, and buy the mustang. Or a v8 firebird.

Well I already put in a new rack and had to put a new front lower control arm cause I was going 50 and the ball joint came out luckly the kids were at home. I tried to sell or trade but was no good. As far as who would be doing the work my uncle owns a performance shop here in town he dosent mind dealing with my Lexus but he prefers domestic over import lol. I can handle most stuff but complex swaps and major upgrades. Why would nitrous be out cause of it being auto I was just gonna use my safe shot by ZEX at most is 30hp shot dry kit. I can out run my brothers firebird no prob in Autocross its just when we drag when he gets his supercharger. I don't mind if he would win I just wanna be close and we only have an 1/8th here in roxboro. I guess what I'm saying is if factory is 170 HP at wheel I'd like to be in the 200s at wheel if possible.

I don't believe you one bit when you say you're 3800lb auto sc beat anything, ever, at autocross.

it can but not a stock auto. a v160/ 3.13 diff and 30psi boost will eat anything

I wasn't saying that I'm lapping people in Autocross with my obese car I race for fun its me and my brother who go at it. I get lapped like crazy but my focus is keeping him in my mirrors. Also we done our scale weights I'm about 250-300 lbs heavy I'm short and he's like basketball mixed with football size also I've been doing it longer and we started drifting early this year. We try lol. But yea can I throw 30hp shot of nitrous on it.

Also if I can do 30hp shot then what's a safe max and should I keep dry or upgrade to wet.

If you want to keep up and spend as little as possible you want a 1JZ twin turbo swap (non-vvt) with a matching automatic transmission and a 3.92 SC400 rear. That's way more than 200whp but you'll struggle for 200whp without a turbo. With a turbo kit or a swap you're still getting into some expense.

A NOT cheaper alternative is to W58 5-speed swap the car and keep the 4.27 automatic rear diff. Still not more horsepower but you'll have much better gearing and 0-60.

Sorry, there isn't a simple or inexpensive way to get more power with these cars without getting well into 280-320hp at the crank to begin with.

Okay I've been on the internet browsing so many Turbo forum builds some are for specific cars and others are universal. I have made up my mind in what I want I'm looking to build a small kit to achieve around 5psi. From what I have seen on those sites if I'm doing this build I need a 12:1 fmu, bov, wastegate, turbo., manifold, and oil lines, does this sound about rite. I don't think I would need all the extras cause I'm not really looking for full out boost just 5psi for now.

you need to look into some basic na-t threads to get a better understanding of what you will need to do.

when you install a turbo kit there are levels of performance you can achieve with certain mods.
like for low boost the setup for 5 psi will likely do fine on a stock motor up to 8-9 psi, even more with right ecu.
We are talking stock headgasket, mostly stock fuel (maybe new pump), and a very basic turbo kit and you can get that.

YOU DO NOT NEED A FMU FOR A BASIC NA-T!!!
the stock regulator is a 1:1 FMU, and will fuel low boost fine but a turbo ecu is recommended but gets into alot more work.
with the stock ecu you will need a bov that can recirculate, any wastegate, any 60 trim turbo, a sidemount intercooler at least or a small front mount (look into same side for shorter piping), oil lines, turbo manifold, downpipe, intake pipe, intercooler piping.. the very basics of a turbo kit and then the installation.
for 5-8 psi you do not mess with the fuel system unless you need more injector usually above 10 psi or so or if you upgrade to a turbo ecu that calls for more injector. only thing fuel wise that should be done when going turbo is changing out to a better fuel pump, but you can run low boost on the stock fuel pump under 8 psi but that also depends on how old it is and condition etc...

so any basics turbo kit, and do not mess with the fuel regulator before you learn the in's and out's of the turbo setups. Best case installing a 12:1 FMU you will have a new shiny looking 12:1 FMU that will actually provide much much more fuel than you need probably making it not run properly, or you install a 1:1 FMU which does nothing but look better than the factory one but not actually doing anything different but creating potential leaks at the fittings, or worst case one of those fittings gets a small leak and the engine goes up in a blaze (when you go na-t buy a fire extinguisher and keep it in the car, in fact keep a bigger one in the garage where you work on it as well).

When I see members trying to familiarize themselves with na-t for some reason everyone things an FMU is necessary, but as long as I have been a member here, I have several setups get destroyed because of them being improperly installed or installed properly but spring a leak. I understand higher power cars with larger fuel setups will need them, but for basic setups they are not really needed it in the first place.
literally everything else you can get wrong and not burn down your car and can be a good learning experience, but the FMU, injectors, lines and pump I recommend not to mess with unless you need to and know what you are doing, but in this case it is definitely not needed.

Thank you very much for getting me a complete understanding, guide, and list for what I need for my project. My goal is only 5 psi that way I can keep it simple and if down the road many years I wanna go bigger ill have the basics. Any suggestions on brands ill be getting the small stuff soon, also could I use the oil filter plate for my oil lines or do I need to tap in.

Would this Turbo work -T70 wet floating bearing, comp:-.70 A.R. comp:-75 trim. Turbine:-.84 A.R turbine:- 60 trim