Toyota Equivalent?
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Toyota Equivalent?
I have a 93 SC300 what is the toyota equivalent because calling lexus for parts is double the money
i would also like to know what is the 94 and 95 SC400 toyota equivalent
For instance I need LCA's people get it off a Toyota Supra for so much less, I need a Serpetine belt Tensioner is it a direct fit? do they even use the same engines? i.e 2JZGE and 1UZFE or whatever
I dont have time to do reasearch on toyota forums to check I was hoping someone knows the answer.
as always thanks.
i would also like to know what is the 94 and 95 SC400 toyota equivalent
For instance I need LCA's people get it off a Toyota Supra for so much less, I need a Serpetine belt Tensioner is it a direct fit? do they even use the same engines? i.e 2JZGE and 1UZFE or whatever
I dont have time to do reasearch on toyota forums to check I was hoping someone knows the answer.
as always thanks.
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used is good but if the bushings are shot i dont know if i want used bushings again that will go on me in 10k miles. plus some things i want original lexus/toyota. i just did the timing belt job tensioners pulleys...........everything original except for the waterpump which jumped in price from 80 to 190 so i just got aftermarket for 50
#6
Basically anything MKIV Supra NA in the engine and transmission. Front suspension is all NA MKIV Supra. Rear suspension is only partly compatible with the MKIV (rear control arms have to be Lexus for instance). Diffs are the same. Radiator is SC-specific but you can run an MKIV radiator conversion very easily. Brakes use SC pads but there is a lot of information about upgrading those.
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Basically anything MKIV Supra NA in the engine and transmission. Front suspension is all NA MKIV Supra. Rear suspension is only partly compatible with the MKIV (rear control arms have to be Lexus for instance). Diffs are the same. Radiator is SC-specific but you can run an MKIV radiator conversion very easily. Brakes use SC pads but there is a lot of information about upgrading those.
I ordered R1 Concepts which from what i gather are much better brakes rotors and calipers than oem anyway, so anything better than what i have is already good enough for me. my speed racer days are over, just cruisin at this point.
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#11
MKIV Toyota Supra (93'-98')
3rd Gen Toyota Soarer (91'-00')
1st Gen Lexus SC300/SC400 (92'-00')
check compatibility as you are pre-obd2/vvti, certain things change througout the models/years.
I'm a "have it and not need it, then, need it and not have it" kind of guy. driving a car or sending my wife off with the kids in a car with bad anythings just doesn't fly with me from experience. sports car or not. she may jump down my thoat about how much money I waste on parts but shuts right up when her car wont start and magically gets fixed.
for me its a no brainer to replace crappy rubber vs awesome polyurethane. a cheap mitsuboshi timing belt vs gates racing timing belt. standard oem Headgasket vs bad-azz multi-layered Headgasket. weak oem studs/bolts vs strong ARP studs/bolts...ect. none of these parts really make my car any faster nor am I trying to be a speed demon but I'd rather have quality parts that will out-last and out-perform the rest. don't get me wrong, if some douche in a mustang brown-noses my baby I don't mind putting the parts to use and teach em' a lesson every once and awhile. I'm still a guy. =P
becareful and look around before you buy that $700 dealership part. you just might find one online or localy for a fraction of the price if you look hard enough. used parts are ofcourse a gamble and situational but condition is most important. i.e what counts in a LCA is the balljoint and integrity of the arm. if the balljoint is good just replace the bushings with poly's NOT oem as the oem will just crap out again like you mentioned. doing this you saved some money and it's now better than before.
3rd Gen Toyota Soarer (91'-00')
1st Gen Lexus SC300/SC400 (92'-00')
check compatibility as you are pre-obd2/vvti, certain things change througout the models/years.
I'm a "have it and not need it, then, need it and not have it" kind of guy. driving a car or sending my wife off with the kids in a car with bad anythings just doesn't fly with me from experience. sports car or not. she may jump down my thoat about how much money I waste on parts but shuts right up when her car wont start and magically gets fixed.
for me its a no brainer to replace crappy rubber vs awesome polyurethane. a cheap mitsuboshi timing belt vs gates racing timing belt. standard oem Headgasket vs bad-azz multi-layered Headgasket. weak oem studs/bolts vs strong ARP studs/bolts...ect. none of these parts really make my car any faster nor am I trying to be a speed demon but I'd rather have quality parts that will out-last and out-perform the rest. don't get me wrong, if some douche in a mustang brown-noses my baby I don't mind putting the parts to use and teach em' a lesson every once and awhile. I'm still a guy. =P
becareful and look around before you buy that $700 dealership part. you just might find one online or localy for a fraction of the price if you look hard enough. used parts are ofcourse a gamble and situational but condition is most important. i.e what counts in a LCA is the balljoint and integrity of the arm. if the balljoint is good just replace the bushings with poly's NOT oem as the oem will just crap out again like you mentioned. doing this you saved some money and it's now better than before.
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I am also in agreement about the brakes they arent that great thats why i went with R1 slotted (not drilled) premium front and E-line back with with good posi quite pads. read some reviews and people are amazed at how much better they are than stock.
Plus on 15's i have no room for LS brakes and calipers as much as i would love it. i have maybe 1/2 inch clearance right now between the brakes and the rim
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MKIV Toyota Supra (93'-98')
3rd Gen Toyota Soarer (91'-00')
1st Gen Lexus SC300/SC400 (92'-00')
check compatibility as you are pre-obd2/vvti, certain things change througout the models/years.
I'm a "have it and not need it, then, need it and not have it" kind of guy. driving a car or sending my wife off with the kids in a car with bad anythings just doesn't fly with me from experience. sports car or not. she may jump down my thoat about how much money I waste on parts but shuts right up when her car wont start and magically gets fixed.
for me its a no brainer to replace crappy rubber vs awesome polyurethane. a cheap mitsuboshi timing belt vs gates racing timing belt. standard oem Headgasket vs bad-azz multi-layered Headgasket. weak oem studs/bolts vs strong ARP studs/bolts...ect. none of these parts really make my car any faster nor am I trying to be a speed demon but I'd rather have quality parts that will out-last and out-perform the rest. don't get me wrong, if some douche in a mustang brown-noses my baby I don't mind putting the parts to use and teach em' a lesson every once and awhile. I'm still a guy. =P
becareful and look around before you buy that $700 dealership part. you just might find one online or localy for a fraction of the price if you look hard enough. used parts are ofcourse a gamble and situational but condition is most important. i.e what counts in a LCA is the balljoint and integrity of the arm. if the balljoint is good just replace the bushings with poly's NOT oem as the oem will just crap out again like you mentioned. doing this you saved some money and it's now better than before.
3rd Gen Toyota Soarer (91'-00')
1st Gen Lexus SC300/SC400 (92'-00')
check compatibility as you are pre-obd2/vvti, certain things change througout the models/years.
I'm a "have it and not need it, then, need it and not have it" kind of guy. driving a car or sending my wife off with the kids in a car with bad anythings just doesn't fly with me from experience. sports car or not. she may jump down my thoat about how much money I waste on parts but shuts right up when her car wont start and magically gets fixed.
for me its a no brainer to replace crappy rubber vs awesome polyurethane. a cheap mitsuboshi timing belt vs gates racing timing belt. standard oem Headgasket vs bad-azz multi-layered Headgasket. weak oem studs/bolts vs strong ARP studs/bolts...ect. none of these parts really make my car any faster nor am I trying to be a speed demon but I'd rather have quality parts that will out-last and out-perform the rest. don't get me wrong, if some douche in a mustang brown-noses my baby I don't mind putting the parts to use and teach em' a lesson every once and awhile. I'm still a guy. =P
becareful and look around before you buy that $700 dealership part. you just might find one online or localy for a fraction of the price if you look hard enough. used parts are ofcourse a gamble and situational but condition is most important. i.e what counts in a LCA is the balljoint and integrity of the arm. if the balljoint is good just replace the bushings with poly's NOT oem as the oem will just crap out again like you mentioned. doing this you saved some money and it's now better than before.
then come to find out my serpentine belt split (had to change) and my rad was not leaking but not good either (that was changed)
i am in full maintenance mode, everything to make sure the car runs another 20 years. i think the LCA itself was fine they looked it over just the bushings. the issue is he can get something aftermarket and it would cost less to replace the lca with work than just the 2 bushings. so as long as the bushings are not life threatening i have to live with it.
#15
Also in agreement here, thats why the first thing i did when i got the car was do the timing belt and tensioner, water pump hoses...
then come to find out my serpentine belt split (had to change) and my rad was not leaking but not good either (that was changed)
i am in full maintenance mode, everything to make sure the car runs another 20 years. i think the LCA itself was fine they looked it over just the bushings. the issue is he can get something aftermarket and it would cost less to replace the lca with work than just the 2 bushings. so as long as the bushings are not life threatening i have to live with it.
then come to find out my serpentine belt split (had to change) and my rad was not leaking but not good either (that was changed)
i am in full maintenance mode, everything to make sure the car runs another 20 years. i think the LCA itself was fine they looked it over just the bushings. the issue is he can get something aftermarket and it would cost less to replace the lca with work than just the 2 bushings. so as long as the bushings are not life threatening i have to live with it.