Rookie
That sandblasting job looks great! Looks like I'll be having some fun w/ the sandblaster myself soon. Great build, keep up the good work!
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I paid someone to do the job, i would do it myself if I have the tools.Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
That sandblasting job looks great! Looks like I'll be having some fun w/ the sandblaster myself soon. Great build, keep up the good work!
Rookie
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All the better! Less work on non-essential tasks. Thanks for being so detailed in your build! I'm going through the exact same part of my build w/ the head work and water / oil pump installation this week.Originally Posted by JesLet
I paid someone to do the job, i would do it myself if I have the tools.
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Get new oil pump..Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
All the better! Less work on non-essential tasks. Thanks for being so detailed in your build! I'm going through the exact same part of my build w/ the head work and water / oil pump installation this week.
Rookie
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My boy @ work has been stressing this for the past two weeks. Now when you say new, you mean brand spanking new, or used lower mileage? My old one had 240k on it so it definitely has to go.Originally Posted by JesLet
Get new oil pump..
Lexus Champion
Your project is looking great, but I have a couple questions.
First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.
Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.
Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
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You have to get an OE brand new. Lots of guys here have nightmares not changing them.Originally Posted by MacGyverQu
My boy @ work has been stressing this for the past two weeks. Now when you say new, you mean brand spanking new, or used lower mileage? My old one had 240k on it so it definitely has to go.
Talking about pulling the engine out of the car again and taking everything apart.
I would not trust a used one unless you brought it new and ran it yourself. Most of these engines have been sitting for a while.
$160 at Elmhurst and you are good to go.
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First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.
Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
I did not take the pistons and rods apart so I do not know. I may have to look at that again.Originally Posted by stockhatch
Your project is looking great, but I have a couple questions. First, did you check for wrist pin movement before reusing your pistons? When I rebuilt my 2JZ, most of the pistons were worn beyond the service limit. The way to tell is to try to move the wrist pin within the piston at room temp. If it moves within the piston, the piston needs to be replaced. The wrist pins should be an interference fit at room temp and require piston heating to install.
Regarding your valve clearances, they are likely tight due to the valve job. Even though the stems were machined, they are probably still slightly high due to cutting the seats and grinding the valves.
And as for the valve clearance, I have to go thinner shims. Yes I believe it was the valve job. I bought 20 shims and they are $7 per piece. Holy %&^!!
1JZ Single SC400
Man, did the intake manifold come out great or what???
Looks great!!!!
Looks great!!!!
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Looks great!!!!
Thanks man, I wanted it chromed though, too much work I think.Originally Posted by 1JZPWRD
Man, did the intake manifold come out great or what??? Looks great!!!!
1JZ Single SC400
I like the look of chrome under any hood, when done properly and in moderation. I think chrome just says clean and clean means time well spent under the hood and done right. Jmo.
Intermediate
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Polishing the intae manifold, TB, valve covers and turbo compressor housing cost me $450.00 locally.Originally Posted by JesLet
Thanks man, I wanted it chromed though, too much work I think.
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Where? Basko did the sandblasting...Originally Posted by AZTurbo
Polishing the intae manifold, TB, valve covers and turbo compressor housing cost me $450.00 locally.
Did you do all the intake manifold or just the upper plenum?




