coil pack
suppose the only thing left is timing... im on a serious budget @ this point... will this be ok? I know it isn't the top shelf...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-4-0L-Lexus-LS400-SC400-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Kit-/360373765435?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ASC400&hash=item53e7f3453b&vxp=mtr
anybody in south florida do mechanic work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-4-0L-Lexus-LS400-SC400-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Kit-/360373765435?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ASC400&hash=item53e7f3453b&vxp=mtr
anybody in south florida do mechanic work?
Do you still have the CEL. maybe take a video of that engine rattle noise you were talking about if you can.
did you check the other cam sensor, I want to say since the v8 is set up where each distributor fires 2 cylinders on each bank, you probably need both of them to be working to get each side to work fully.

if its not the cam sensors then with that code I would think it could be your crank sensor but I would think it wouldn't run at all then, maybe give it a visual once over at least. also since you have a 400 so one thing you can try for the meantime is to pull your connector on your maf plug and see if it runs better, that will put it in a safe mode, but if its something like the crank sensor it may not help.
I used ebay timing kit on my 22r and have had no issues yet, although that uses a chain instead of a belt. It should probably do fine. not sure this will solve your problem though.
did you check the other cam sensor, I want to say since the v8 is set up where each distributor fires 2 cylinders on each bank, you probably need both of them to be working to get each side to work fully.

if its not the cam sensors then with that code I would think it could be your crank sensor but I would think it wouldn't run at all then, maybe give it a visual once over at least. also since you have a 400 so one thing you can try for the meantime is to pull your connector on your maf plug and see if it runs better, that will put it in a safe mode, but if its something like the crank sensor it may not help.
I used ebay timing kit on my 22r and have had no issues yet, although that uses a chain instead of a belt. It should probably do fine. not sure this will solve your problem though.
Do you still have the CEL. maybe take a video of that engine rattle noise you were talking about if you can.
did you check the other cam sensor, I want to say since the v8 is set up where each distributor fires 2 cylinders on each bank, you probably need both of them to be working to get each side to work fully.

if its not the cam sensors then with that code I would think it could be your crank sensor but I would think it wouldn't run at all then, maybe give it a visual once over at least. also since you have a 400 so one thing you can try for the meantime is to pull your connector on your maf plug and see if it runs better, that will put it in a safe mode, but if its something like the crank sensor it may not help.
I used ebay timing kit on my 22r and have had no issues yet, although that uses a chain instead of a belt. It should probably do fine. not sure this will solve your problem though.
did you check the other cam sensor, I want to say since the v8 is set up where each distributor fires 2 cylinders on each bank, you probably need both of them to be working to get each side to work fully.

if its not the cam sensors then with that code I would think it could be your crank sensor but I would think it wouldn't run at all then, maybe give it a visual once over at least. also since you have a 400 so one thing you can try for the meantime is to pull your connector on your maf plug and see if it runs better, that will put it in a safe mode, but if its something like the crank sensor it may not help.
I used ebay timing kit on my 22r and have had no issues yet, although that uses a chain instead of a belt. It should probably do fine. not sure this will solve your problem though.
well the last couple people under the hood scoffed @ my timing belt, and it is cracking on the edges so it has to go anyhow, just like the cam sensor wire that was chewed through, it has to be replaced regardless. I was under the impression that without crank signal it wouldn't start period.
I have pulled the MAF before, it runs no better, and spits the code for the MAF. Once I clear the codes and plug in the MAF, it is all good. No code. So I am assuming that is functioning within specs.
Have not checked the other sensor but will. Just not understanding how I had it running a couple weekends back. Makes NO SENSE.
Either way, timing belt needs to be done so I will have that done and hopefully the shop that works on it can diagnose any other problem it might have..
A code 13 is either crank or cam sensors, bad ecu, or timing jumped a couple teeth, or belt is stretching. THIS IS ANNOYING. If something is grounding I assume the shop will find it.
It is the ONLY CODE I GET. 13. fml
yeah its possible they find the culprit during the job, especially if it is a snapped camshaft.
so all codes clear except 13. the belt is listed as a potential issue so it could be it or a timing component.
maybe even whatever is rattling.
so all codes clear except 13. the belt is listed as a potential issue so it could be it or a timing component.
maybe even whatever is rattling.
I was thinking the cam as a possibility before I had the car purring like a kitten a couple weekends back. It reverted to its old crappy idle and power loss after having a spark of life.
Yup all codes clear except 13, transmission light just blinks continuously indicating everything is gravy there.
Parts are scheduled for delivery on Saturday.
Good news, If I can fix the car it will have a bunch of stuff new in the last year..
alternator
radiator
plugs, wires, caps and rotors
brake pads and brake rotors
timing belt
cam sensor
water pump
I need new tires all around and I need to replace the top hose on the P/S pump, other than that the car should be good to go for a while if we can get it firing correctly.
I really bought this car with the intention of it going the distance, can't bail on her now though she just needs some love.
edit: what are the signal plates? How do I check if they are good?
Last edited by soflo99; Jun 5, 2013 at 07:57 AM.
honestly once you get them running right besides the coils that tend to go out they are pretty solid motors.
I wouldn't hesitate to swap one into a project car and i have even considered getting a 400 to experiment with one. must be something weird going on here, normally ignition issues get solved pretty fast but it does seem like a sensor issue or mechanical issue on this one.
I wouldn't hesitate to swap one into a project car and i have even considered getting a 400 to experiment with one. must be something weird going on here, normally ignition issues get solved pretty fast but it does seem like a sensor issue or mechanical issue on this one.
got somebody to do the labor for the timing belt for $400.00...
not bad I think.
oh, and he works @ a shop and was recommended by a friend @ work. so hopefully either way he can fix my problem.
not bad I think.
oh, and he works @ a shop and was recommended by a friend @ work. so hopefully either way he can fix my problem.
I have 2 sc400s I had the same problem, check engine light code was 13 , my cam sensor wire on the r bank, passenger side was torn by my belt and not getting a signal to the computer, first check the codes.
Hey, I actually replace the cam sensor already with a new one, and I no longer have any check engine lights. I had the timing belt done and the timing was off by 6 teeth.
honestly once you get them running right besides the coils that tend to go out they are pretty solid motors.
I wouldn't hesitate to swap one into a project car and i have even considered getting a 400 to experiment with one. must be something weird going on here, normally ignition issues get solved pretty fast but it does seem like a sensor issue or mechanical issue on this one.
I wouldn't hesitate to swap one into a project car and i have even considered getting a 400 to experiment with one. must be something weird going on here, normally ignition issues get solved pretty fast but it does seem like a sensor issue or mechanical issue on this one.
Sc, my mechanic changed my t belt, said it was off 6 teeth. What he said anyway, he replaced my t belt and water pump.
The cel is gone, no #13 anymore. It blinks continuously when tested like before.
However, car still lacks power the same, smells of gas from having to go 3/4 throttle just to accelerate at all at the traffic like speed. slow traffic like speed.
where does this leave us? real head scratcher...
both of my check engine light, and transmission light, blink continuously when tested.
guess what? when I drop the car off I told them to swap out the coil packs because I thought the original is better than the one I had bought. when I brought it home I noticed the new coil pack was the passenger side , swap that out for the OEM and its good as new now!!! She's singing like a canary!
Problem solved.
In conclusion of my problem and this thread, i want to thank ALL you guys, specially Ali, just helped so dang much.
Problem solved.
In conclusion of my problem and this thread, i want to thank ALL you guys, specially Ali, just helped so dang much.







