I'm back from a much needed 2 weeks vacation in Cuba and i'm ready to kickstart this project again.
The OEM temperature sensor in the radiator does not have a ON/OFF function as i thought, it changes resistance with the temperature.
I solved the problem by using a dual fan controller that i bought on Ebay. It has built-in relays and a few extra features, such as run-on after ignition is switched off, different temperatures for each fan. Here is a wiring diagram:


I also had some trouble with the alignment of the fish bracket. The spacers that i had were 100mm long and the belt jumped out. I made 6 new spacers, 106mm long. The belt still jumped out. I then shortened them to 103mm and discovered that there was one more problem, i needed 2 washers between engine block and fish bracket like in the picture below:

That fixed the alignment problem and hopefully i won't have to buy more belts coz they are pretty expensive.
I also cut out a bit of the fish bracket to get better clearance against the chassi:


More to come in a few days
/Mike

 

I connected the AEM wideband failsafe gauge today. The AFR reading is working perfectly, however the boost indicator shows weird values; I got the option of showing InHg/PSIg or BAR. It show negative values, something like -20. I connected a T-connector in 2 different places like in the picture below:

with the same result in both places. I don't know if i connected to the wrong vacuum line or if the bypass valve is of the wrong kind. The BPV is open like most of the time, venting into the atmosphere, it closes briefly when i floor the gas pedal and as soon as i release the gas pedal it vents again.
This is the BPV:

The other thing i need help with is the tachometer signal. I connected to the IG- connector on the DLC1 diagnose connector. Is that the right place?

/Mike

 

on normal non boost cars when you are idling and driving around, you are in vacuum technically which is negative pressure. when you go Wide open throttle on a non boosted car, you will basically get to 0 which is normal air pressure outside your engine. when you have a supercharger or turbo, once you push down on it it will go from negative to 0 and then to positive "boost", the supercharger will get to boost much much faster generally than a turbo. IF your bypass wasn't working right on a supercharger your numbers would be less negative, but don't worry what you are seeing is correct.

when it says InHg/PSIg, that means in vacuum (negative numbers) the units it is showing is IN/HG, and when you cross over into positive numbers it reads in psi. It does this because 1 psi is just a hair over 2 in/HG, so when you are driving around in vacuum it is easier to read stuff between 0 and -20 in/hg (most engines fall in this range), than it would be to read between 0 and -10 psi. Once you break 0 everything will be in PSI.
It is a bit wierd at first but everyone gets used to it.

the bar option will always show you bars negative or positive. 1 bar is 14 psi though, so your negative numbers would be between 0 and -.75 bar though, and that number on a gauge is much less interesting to look at on the fly and you wont notice small changes as easily as with in/hg.

with my gauge on in/hg, I can pretty much tell if there is ever a vac hose has come off or something it will always read like 2 less in/hg or more than when normal idling with a warm engine. when the motor is cold or first started, they generally pull less vacuum than when hot, and as it warms up it should always settle around the same number (considering you haven't done major mods), and It's nice to check it every once in a while and make sure its normal.

whats wrong with your tach signal? you shouldn't be connecting it there, but I think it can be tested from there, but you may not be doing it right. need more info on that one usually for most devices in the car you get the rpm signal at the ecu plug, or off the ignitor.

 

Hi Ali and thx for replying,
The AEM failsafe gauge needs to be connected to tacho signal (i'm guessing for all the fancy graphs it can draw) and i do not know where i can find the tachometer signal.
/Mike

 

look at a safc diagram for your car, it will be the one for rpm. Mine is on my ecu connector, but I have a sc3 I don't know the pin number for a sc4, but you want to splice into it there for best results.

 

Today I connected the catch tank to the crankcase on the passenger side and installed the new fan controller. Unfortunately the fans did not start when the temperature reached 80 celsius. I short-circuited the temp-sensor connector and the fans started, which leads me to believe that i have a faulty sensor.


/Mike

 

About the boost line.... maybe it needs to read before the throttle body ?. I spoke with a welder that promised to weld a nipple right here:


P.S. My gauge is a combined AFR and boost gauge from AEM:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges...safe-gauge-85/
I ordered an adjustable bypass valve that was a bit more expensive than the one i have now. Hopefully it will do a better job.
This is the new BOV/bypass valve that i bought:

/Mike

 

Hi friends,
I've done some work over the past days:
1. Finally solved the problem i had with the electrical fans, they behaved erratically and worked only sometimes. The problem was the connector to the temperature sensor. I had to cut the plastic cover around the sensor and solder the wires directly to the sensor. Now i have a new connector somewhere along the wires. The first fan opens at 77 celsius and the second one at 85. I do not know If this the correct setup, it just felt right. I'm open for suggestions here.
2. Yesterday the car did not want to start anymore and threw a CEL at me -->12 which means "No NE or G1 or G2 signal to ECU within 2 seconds after cranking". I checked cam position sensors and engine speed sensor, it turned out it was the connector to the engine speed sensor that was dirty.
3. I bought a refurbished A/C compressor on ebay which arrived a couple of days ago, I will be installing it on Saturday.
4.The new bypass valve made wonders to the way the engine behaves, at WOT and 3000 RPM I can now feel that the boost is kicking in. The new boost gauge that previously showed negative values read 3,7 PSI. I ordered a new pulley 2,87" from Vortech and I'm hoping it will take me where I want to be, around 6, 7 PSI.
5. I left my spare ECU with the tuner who promised he will desolder the chip and send it to Japan. I'm not really sure what will happen to that chip, if it's going to be reprogrammed or he just wants the software from it. He told me that he has great experience with Toyotas and he usually replaces the chip on the original ECU with some adapter board which he can control and reflash as he wishes. He also said that this would be the first option because our ECU controls the transmission and it is difficult to replace it. The second option would be a piggyback and third would be a stand-alone.
I do not know what to make of it, first of all I do not want to argue too much with him, tuners who want to be involved in such a project are rare over here, most of the tuners nowadays are content with replacing chips on OBDII cars because it's easy money.
All this is very confusing for me although I am a computer guy myself. If i were to choose something myself I would go with the AEM F-IC8, mainly because I already have a AEM wideband and boost gauge that would interact better with a piggyback from the same manufacturer and secondly because it's been proven to work with our ECUs. (Martin, if you read this, you promised to send me a better wiring diagram now that you figured out where to solder those resistors)

This is where I am right now, the engine is running pretty badly, at least it's not overheating anymore, I am working on a cold air intake where the air filter would be inside the wheel arch instead of the windshield washer container and I'm waiting for the tuner to give me a call. I am at his mercy, although I would really love to fix this on my own! The summer is almost over and I would really love to be able to drive a few miles with the new supercharger.
/Mike

 

I've done some work today, I changed back to stock injectors on the drivers side, I'll finish the other side tomorrow. I changed the spark plugs to colder iridium plugs BKR8eix.
I threw in the new Vortech pulley, 2.78" earlier today before i began the injector swap, but it only made things worse.
Here are the old spark plugs, it runs rich as h**l.

Stock injectors with new rubbers and new filters:

I cleaned the throttle body a little while I'm at it:


More to come tomorrow
/Mike

 

I completed passengers side as well and started the engine. Unfortunately it didn't make any difference. Idle is the same as before, acceleration as bad as before.

Here is a short video:
fuel pressure--> 40 PSI
I remembered that one of the O2 sensors (drivers side) is unplugged in favor of the wideband sensor. Can this cause such bad idle?
/Mike

 

unplug the MAF and see how idles then.

 

Yeah, I'll do that and also plug back the stock O2 sensor as soon as I come home after work today.
/Mike

 

I'm following this thread attentively!

I just purchased a Vortech V3 Si. My buddy is making a copy of the fishbracket for me. I already have the AEM FIC 8 and Failsafe Wideband. So my build will be very similar to yours! Thanks for posting all of this info, it will definitely come in handy when I start my supercharger project

 

you may want to eventually try putting the maf in front of the supercharger. the stock ecu should not run that bad lots have run low boost with it in the past.

 

I'm no expert but I think this would be a problem.