Pole Position
Do those Centrifugal Superchargers have the Supercharger whine? or are they more like the turbo sound?
Quote:
I don't really know this is my first one, but both V3 Sci and the V2 SQ models should be fairly quietOriginally Posted by PseudoK
Do those Centrifugal Superchargers have the Supercharger whine? or are they more like the turbo sound?
/Mike
Intermediate
Not the typical whine, but they do sound at idle as it have to release the extra air that is building. Hear some kc95sc400 videos to know what I mean.
Lexus Champion
i can't wait to see your comments on the fun factor and ear to ear grin you will have once your car is complete with that SC. the extra boost and power awakens the car tremendously...you will love driving it...
ryan
ryan
Lexus Champion
Dont forget to think about weight savings. My car is mostly reduced weight and it is much peppier off the line.
Hi guys,
Thank you for following this thread and for your patience, i know things move slowly, i've had a few setbacks, the package from Vortech took more than one month to arrive, one of my friends who has an auto repair shop had a stroke a month ago and he is not really himself anymore, i was counting on his help.
Here is a list of what is left to purchase:
1 x intercooler, bar & plate design (already ordered from ebay)
1 x FMU (any suggestions?)
electric fans
One positive aspect is that the V3 supercharger unit is self contained and need not be connected to the engine oil system, which saves alot of time and effort of putting it together.
Questions:
1. Any of you guys know of a "pictorial" or a thread where the "hydraulic fan delete" is described ?
2. Should i use a blow of valve ? Is it necessary ? How would i control the amount of boost?
Stupid questions probably, but as stated before, i'm a n00b.
Thank you for following this thread and for your patience, i know things move slowly, i've had a few setbacks, the package from Vortech took more than one month to arrive, one of my friends who has an auto repair shop had a stroke a month ago and he is not really himself anymore, i was counting on his help.
Here is a list of what is left to purchase:
1 x intercooler, bar & plate design (already ordered from ebay)
1 x FMU (any suggestions?)
electric fans
One positive aspect is that the V3 supercharger unit is self contained and need not be connected to the engine oil system, which saves alot of time and effort of putting it together.
Questions:
1. Any of you guys know of a "pictorial" or a thread where the "hydraulic fan delete" is described ?
2. Should i use a blow of valve ? Is it necessary ? How would i control the amount of boost?
Stupid questions probably, but as stated before, i'm a n00b.
Pole Position
those superchargers sound good. If you watch the original F&F the blue maxima had one and you can hear it at the scene where they all pull up and dude gets in the fight. I actually drove that car before, as well as the supra (same owner btw). I am following your thread as I am leaning towards a SC vs TC for my app (mostly due to cost),.
Intermediate
Remember to do the PCV valve mod before boosting the engine! If not, you´ll be facing seals leaking oil. How do I know? 
Something like this http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172

Something like this http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172
Quote:

Something like this http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172
I've read the entire thread and i'm non the wiser. On N/A engines there is normally vacuum in the intake. Once you start boosting that will change to positive pressure.Originally Posted by MMCtuner
Remember to do the PCV valve mod before boosting the engine! If not, you´ll be facing seals leaking oil. How do I know? 
Something like this http://www.lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4172
Normally the fumes from the crankcase will go one way into the intake thanks to the PCV valve. That valve will stay closed once you start boosting, thus stoping the oil fumes from entering the intake.
From what i could read in the above mentioned thread, ppl reroute the crankcase hoses to a catch can which filters the fumes and returns to intake.
Will this setup work ?

What i don't understand is what triggers the leaking seals ? Is the pressure inside the crankcase so high that it will cause this without ventilation ? (when PCV valves are closed )
Hope you understand what i'm trying to say, english is not my native language
/Mike
Ali SC3
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you shouldn't Tee vent lines into the same size hose like that if you are turbo or supercharged, you are only really venting the volume the last line can carry after the Tee. There is also no reason to get rid of the pcv, the pcv valve closes entirely under boost.
The proper way to set up the sc4 and sc3 when boosted is to leave the pcv like stock, and the non pcv breather you can run to the filter, and then to the intake pipe like you have shown.
Teeing the pcv into the front of the air filter does nothing, the pcv requires a good bit of vacuum to open even the smallest amount, you won't even get enough vacuum there to make it work, so you essentially have the pcv blocked off and the other side venting, hence there is no need for the Tee.
Now if you removed the pcv valve both would vent normally, but the volume of air moved out of the crank case is still the same, which is the last hose they are tee'd into.
If you removed the Tee and ran 2 hoses that size to a catch can, and then run a larger size hose from the can to the intake, you would have actually gained some evacuation power over stock, but you loose the factory pcv.
And yes it is pressure from combustion leaking past your piston rings (depending on condition), that needs to escape out the crank case before that positive pressure literally pushes out your seals. boost adds to this problem cause you are adding more pressure to the cylinder.
option 1: leave the pcv stock, and run the passenger side to the front of the turbo intake pipe either with or without a catch can / filter.
option 2: If you are having seal issues after option 1 which usually only happens on high boost levels (turbo's mostly), then I would pull the pcv valve out of the valve cover, tap the valve cover for a fitting, attatch a line and run both lines now to a catch can, where a third larger line goes to the intake.
with the supercharger, your pcv will probably only be working at idle anyways, so its up to you if you even want to keep it in the loop.
The proper way to set up the sc4 and sc3 when boosted is to leave the pcv like stock, and the non pcv breather you can run to the filter, and then to the intake pipe like you have shown.
Teeing the pcv into the front of the air filter does nothing, the pcv requires a good bit of vacuum to open even the smallest amount, you won't even get enough vacuum there to make it work, so you essentially have the pcv blocked off and the other side venting, hence there is no need for the Tee.
Now if you removed the pcv valve both would vent normally, but the volume of air moved out of the crank case is still the same, which is the last hose they are tee'd into.
If you removed the Tee and ran 2 hoses that size to a catch can, and then run a larger size hose from the can to the intake, you would have actually gained some evacuation power over stock, but you loose the factory pcv.
And yes it is pressure from combustion leaking past your piston rings (depending on condition), that needs to escape out the crank case before that positive pressure literally pushes out your seals. boost adds to this problem cause you are adding more pressure to the cylinder.
option 1: leave the pcv stock, and run the passenger side to the front of the turbo intake pipe either with or without a catch can / filter.
option 2: If you are having seal issues after option 1 which usually only happens on high boost levels (turbo's mostly), then I would pull the pcv valve out of the valve cover, tap the valve cover for a fitting, attatch a line and run both lines now to a catch can, where a third larger line goes to the intake.
with the supercharger, your pcv will probably only be working at idle anyways, so its up to you if you even want to keep it in the loop.
Pole Position
correct, when boosting a N/A car you "should" gut the PCV valve to allow air to go both directions, if you are running vent through intake. now personally I prefer the scavenging style which is a vent line connected to the exhaust. it is most efficient way of going and when done right looks clean as hell too.
catch cans are hit or miss depending on your specific application. I seen them fill in hours and on other cars wouldnt have anything in them even after a year. I think my turbo saturn I made had to be emptied once a week or so.
catch cans are hit or miss depending on your specific application. I seen them fill in hours and on other cars wouldnt have anything in them even after a year. I think my turbo saturn I made had to be emptied once a week or so.
Ali SC3
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Yeah, I personally stay away from the exhaust valves just because they have a tendancy to fail randomly and you will not know thus you have a good chance of blowing a seal if that happens in say 15k-20k miles after you install and completely forget about it. these are really intended for race cars.
if you do it properly to the intake pipe you can get a little scavenging affect in boost, but it really depends on what you are trying to achieve. for low to mid levels of boost, the 1 valve cover vent is more than enough to evacuate all your pressure, and you can leave your pcv factory for emissions and it will still operate like its supposed to at idle. part throttle it will close since your supercharger kicks in instantly, and everything vents and gets scavanged from the vac that builds up in the intake pipe which gets stronger the more air you take in.
This is how a stock 2jzgte is configured btw, and the pcv valve is the same as an n/a one just made out of metal and is straight instead of a 90 degree fitting.
I have 2 n/a ones and a tt one sitting on my desk, they all work the same.
if you do it properly to the intake pipe you can get a little scavenging affect in boost, but it really depends on what you are trying to achieve. for low to mid levels of boost, the 1 valve cover vent is more than enough to evacuate all your pressure, and you can leave your pcv factory for emissions and it will still operate like its supposed to at idle. part throttle it will close since your supercharger kicks in instantly, and everything vents and gets scavanged from the vac that builds up in the intake pipe which gets stronger the more air you take in.
This is how a stock 2jzgte is configured btw, and the pcv valve is the same as an n/a one just made out of metal and is straight instead of a 90 degree fitting.
I have 2 n/a ones and a tt one sitting on my desk, they all work the same.
Quote:
Would this be a better setup ?Originally Posted by Ali SC3
The proper way to set up the sc4 and sc3 when boosted is to leave the pcv like stock, and the non pcv breather you can run to the filter, and then to the intake pipe like you have shown.

I believe Ryan(SC400TT) did it like this.
/Mike











