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Torque specs for 2jzge with arp studs

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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:17 AM
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Default Torque specs for 2jzge with arp studs

I have a 2jzge with jza80 arp studs, i'm getting ready to torque the head down...(again) but this time I have an oem 2jzgte head gasket to go with it, do you guys know if the torque specs are different depending on the head gasket? Because last time I put it all together with the ge head gasket I hand tightened the studs on the block and tightened the nuts to 80 ft-lb doing increments of 25lbs. Is it the same with the gte head gasket? Thanks in advance
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 07:31 AM
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yes it is the same, i did mine to 90 ft-lb per recomendations on the supra forums.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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So for the increments of 25 it will be:

25-25-25-90?

As for retourque, you loosen the nuts and retourque to 90?

Also, I read in SF that they need to be retourqed after 5 heat cycles, heat cycle means after you started and driven the car?
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JesLet
So for the increments of 25 it will be:

25-25-25-90?

As for retourque, you loosen the nuts and retourque to 90?

Also, I read in SF that they need to be retourqed after 5 heat cycles, heat cycle means after you started and driven the car?
Use The ARP lubricant turn in studs by hand till bottom out tighten in sequence of TSRM 25, 50, 75, 90. all done!!!
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by blk&blu*j
Use The ARP lubricant turn in studs by hand till bottom out tighten in sequence of TSRM 25, 50, 75, 90. all done!!!
What about retourqing? Should I break in for 500 miles first?
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JesLet
What about retourqing? Should I break in for 500 miles first?
I personally have never retorqued H Studs in 15 yrs and making through 900 hp but I don't think its a bad idea however I also have my block O ringed mention that on SF and you will start a barrage of and
To each his own and it has served me well!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 04:50 AM
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no retorque on a jz motor .. use moly lube correctly .. do not use a typical cheap click type trq wrench either . they are never calibrated correctly and will give false readings.. i use the snap on digital self calibrating type that beeps when trq is reached .. make sure on final trq , you hold pressure on the fnl sweep just to make sure its holding trq and not slipping on the nut or worse , galling into the head ..
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