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Hey guys, so after doing my headgasket (was blowing a lot of smoke), the problem is even worse now (no smoke but mixing of oil into coolant...no coolant in the oil thankfully). Anyways, I used an OEM TT headgasket (MLS) and ARP studs. I had the head decked but not the block. I am hesitant to use another metal HG as I fear the block may not be smooth enough. Does anyone know of a composite HG for the 2JZ? I know I shouldnt spray copper on the metal HG but I really want to fix this the next time around.
how clean was the surface of the block . .did you use 1000 grit wet sand paper and alittle motor oil to smooth the surface .. how did you do the torquing of the headstuds .. did you use a cheapo click type torque wrench or the expensive digital self calibrating type ( which is what i use) ,did you follow the correct sequence and do it in 3 steps to final torque . did you test for stud/nut actually holding torque which is a final step alot dont do which usually tells you if the alum in the head has gotten to soft and the nut is galling into head giving false readings
how clean was the surface of the block . .did you use 1000 grit wet sand paper and alittle motor oil to smooth the surface .. how did you do the torquing of the headstuds .. did you use a cheapo click type torque wrench or the expensive digital self calibrating type ( which is what i use) ,did you follow the correct sequence and do it in 3 steps to final torque . did you test for stud/nut actually holding torque which is a final step alot dont do which usually tells you if the alum in the head has gotten to soft and the nut is galling into head giving false readings
The block surface was clean, I used up to 400 grit but not 1000. I torqued using a cheap clicking torque wrench (I guess I'll rent a nice one for the next time around). I did follow the correct sequence. How do I test for the stud/nut actually holding torque? Thank you for your input