Ok, it looks like a few of us are going to get together tommorow and install the headers (Terry's) on the SC400 and I have a few questions.

I'm not sure if the bolts are rusted, even if they aren't, I might as well put in new ones. What size will I need? What is the proper torque on the header bolts?

just to make sure, the headers contact the block directly... no gasket, right?

I'll take lots of pictures and even video (I won't get the rest of the exhaust done until monday so it should be loud as ####). heh, wish me luck (if we can get it off!)

 

You need gaskets - should have come with the headers - you might be able to reuse the stainless genuine ones maybe- but you need gaskets for sure - reckon you should get new ones before starting.
Put the cat temp sensor in the headers before bolting up to engine - it won't fit in afterwards - not enough room.

http://members.optushome.com.au/acti.../V8Exhaust.htm

Some pics of my install above.

Good luck!

 

ugh... well, maybe i wont be installing it tommorow. i was told (initially when i bought them) that they go directly on the block...
any idea on where i can purchase the gaskets (just purchase new stock gaskets?)?

Thanks.

 

New stock gaskets will be just fine - Toyota or Lexus should have them in stock

 

How involved is the install? does the engine need to be lifted?

 

I just bought my headers last week from Terry, so they should be in route as we speak......hopefully !

Though I have not installed them before on a Lex, this was what I was told.

Installation is straight forward. Use new OEM gaskets and replace bolts as needed (get froim dealer). Install time should be 2-4 hours. 2 if you've done it before and know what you're doing, but expect 4 (Terry says he does it in 2 hours). Install sensors prior to installation (as Peter stated).

Engine should not have to be lifted. Do as much as you can from the underside of the car, then finish whats left coming from the top. Removal and install are performed from underneath. Use of jackstands is not advised. Very much recommend a lift for this install.

Again, this is just what I have HEARD. I will find out soon enough though!

Good luck guys and keep us posted as to your findings. I will be in your shoes very shortly.

Keith

 

keith & hellasboy-

if you diy it, what about from the end of the header? the part that bolts up to the engine maybe straight forward, but if i remember correctly from the past posts, you still had to custom it to either the stock 3rd cat or go duals all the way to the resonators.

i'm just asking to see what you plan to do. drive it to the exhaust shop for them to fab something? that should be some noise!

just wondering that's all.

 

heh, i was going to leave it alone and just drive to an exhaust shop but then i started thinking that the exhaust gasses are going to be very hot and i don't want the gasses to burn something on the underside.

i'm probably going to buy a propane torch and weld a piece of straight pipe to the rest of the exhaust and then go in to get all the rest of it redone. I'm hoping to find a lift (and the time) to take my car to in 2 weeks time.

 

A propane torch won't work. Call AAA and have the car towed at no cost. I plan on adding a x-pipe, and I own a MIG welder. Install everything to the rear axle's and then put in some turndowns to get me to the mufflershop so they can bend the rest.

If push comes to shove, I'll get the "bendable by hand " pipe from discount and just rig itmyself to hold me over (bendable pipe is 15$ for a 4' stick.

 

Any update on the insulation, pics, problems?

 

problems? yeah, but not with the headers

i have to drop my transmission to replace gaskets, seals, and i'm going to go ahead and put in a new TC and transmission mounts while its getting done (a faulty seal neccessitates this work).

so the headers are put off until january or early february. I'm also going to have an exhaust shop install the headers... a tow truck was going to cost ~150$ and the shop said they would install it for 300-350$ since i'm getting the rest of the work done with them, I might as well have them do it.

the only bad thing is they won't remove the 3rd cat completely because they don't want to get fined (who's gonna find out?) so i have to waste ~250$ for a new cat and another 50$ for a shop to take it out and put in a couple straight pipes.

 

oh, and the 1 concern the exhaust guy had was that the O2 sensors were in front of the cats instead of behind the cats (like OEM) so that might screw up readings. I'm not sure if it will though, hopefully someone might know.