LCA Rear Bolt Seized
LCA Rear Bolt Seized
Sup fellaz...my lower control arm bushings are bad on my 95 sc300 and I have purchased the Prothane kit as replacement.
The LCA is completely off except the rear bolt which seems to be seized..wont come out for shytt.
What have you guys used to cut or take out that rear bolt?? I will attempt to use a sawzall but need other ideas as there is not much room to work there and I don't want to mess up the steel sleeves because I need to reuse it with the prothane bushings.
Also where can the camber adjustment bolt be purchased for a decent price? I called my local Toyota dealer and they want $21.82 each and wont receive it until Tuesday.
The LCA is completely off except the rear bolt which seems to be seized..wont come out for shytt.
What have you guys used to cut or take out that rear bolt?? I will attempt to use a sawzall but need other ideas as there is not much room to work there and I don't want to mess up the steel sleeves because I need to reuse it with the prothane bushings.
Also where can the camber adjustment bolt be purchased for a decent price? I called my local Toyota dealer and they want $21.82 each and wont receive it until Tuesday.
Sup fellaz...my lower control arm bushings are bad on my 95 sc300 and I have purchased the Prothane kit as replacement.
The LCA is completely off except the rear bolt which seems to be seized..wont come out for shytt.
What have you guys used to cut or take out that rear bolt?? I will attempt to use a sawzall but need other ideas as there is not much room to work there and I don't want to mess up the steel sleeves because I need to reuse it with the prothane bushings.
Also where can the camber adjustment bolt be purchased for a decent price? I called my local Toyota dealer and they want $21.82 each and wont receive it until Tuesday.
The LCA is completely off except the rear bolt which seems to be seized..wont come out for shytt.
What have you guys used to cut or take out that rear bolt?? I will attempt to use a sawzall but need other ideas as there is not much room to work there and I don't want to mess up the steel sleeves because I need to reuse it with the prothane bushings.
Also where can the camber adjustment bolt be purchased for a decent price? I called my local Toyota dealer and they want $21.82 each and wont receive it until Tuesday.
I was able to get off at a local junk yard for free a couple of camber bolts for the front of the car (each camber bolt is a different size). They were hard to come off and was able to do the fronts. I also tried to get the rears lca camber bolts off, but those wouldnt come off either. I ended up buying them from lexus. Local auto parts store didnt have them.
So this week coming up we will be doing upper and lower lca's and may have an issue with the uca's bolts...we may just pull down the subframe and work on it like that.
It's a pain in the ***, but the change from just doing the front uac, lca and the steering column bushings is well worth the work.
Good luck!
I used a crap load of pb blaster, wd & crc spray, also tried hammering and putting heat onto it..no luck..I picked up some carbide sawzall blades and will try to cut the bolt out...sucks both rear botls in the front are seized.
Just went through this last weekend with the front control arms. We had planned on doing both the front and rear upper and lower bushings...the gods were laughing at us. I had the front lower rear control arm and the rear lower controls arm bolts seized. we spent a lot of time with a torch, hammers, saws, you name it. They wouldnt budge. We ended up having to use a plasma cutter to cut off the ends of the bolts and then pry out the center.
I was able to get off at a local junk yard for free a couple of camber bolts for the front of the car (each camber bolt is a different size). They were hard to come off and was able to do the fronts. I also tried to get the rears lca camber bolts off, but those wouldnt come off either. I ended up buying them from lexus. Local auto parts store didnt have them.
So this week coming up we will be doing upper and lower lca's and may have an issue with the uca's bolts...we may just pull down the subframe and work on it like that.
It's a pain in the ***, but the change from just doing the front uac, lca and the steering column bushings is well worth the work.
Good luck!
I was able to get off at a local junk yard for free a couple of camber bolts for the front of the car (each camber bolt is a different size). They were hard to come off and was able to do the fronts. I also tried to get the rears lca camber bolts off, but those wouldnt come off either. I ended up buying them from lexus. Local auto parts store didnt have them.
So this week coming up we will be doing upper and lower lca's and may have an issue with the uca's bolts...we may just pull down the subframe and work on it like that.
It's a pain in the ***, but the change from just doing the front uac, lca and the steering column bushings is well worth the work.
Good luck!
Oh and there is a guy on ebay that sells the sleeves separately in aluminum so they will never seize.
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^ thanks, I picked up some good blades from Graingers, it should do the job.
I also saw the sleeves on ebay but decided to make my own aluminum ones since I work at a machine shop
I also saw the sleeves on ebay but decided to make my own aluminum ones since I work at a machine shop
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I used a grinder with a 7" metal cutting wheel and cut right thru the sleeve and bolt in like 10 mins...not much space to work there but did the job.
There is a round rubber mount bushing it looks like that fell when the lca came off...I didn't really get to see where it fell from but I guess its from the front part of the lca...does it go in the front or rear of that ?
There is a round rubber mount bushing it looks like that fell when the lca came off...I didn't really get to see where it fell from but I guess its from the front part of the lca...does it go in the front or rear of that ?
Lead Lap
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 502
Likes: 11
From: New Brunswick (NB)
Next time try a very small bit of heat & then melt some candle wax on the bolt/nut threads.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
Next time try a very small bit of heat & then melt some candle wax on the bolt/nut threads.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
Next time try a very small bit of heat & then melt some candle wax on the bolt/nut threads.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
It will wick itself into the threads & act as a lubricant. The nut/bolt/chassis pieces will all cool at slightly different rates, allowing some movement & loosening of the corrosion.
Works wonders getting exhaust manifold bolts out. Ask me how I know.
Quick question...it looks like there are 2 sleeves , does this silver inner one have to be fully removed and place the new prothane bushing into that other sleeve thats there???
Last edited by SCME87; Sep 1, 2012 at 11:40 AM.
For the rear lca, we didn't keep the outside sleeve. You can tell if it belongs by putting up the bushing to the sleeve. On the instructions for the front of the prothane bushings, it tells you when to save the outer sleeve and inner sleeve. One the instructions for the rear I figure it would indicate if you needed to also. It never said anything about saving the outer sleeves, so we didn't and I'm all good. The inner sleeves need to be saved if you didn't buy replacement inner sleeves or if the bushings didn't come with them.
Lead Lap
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 502
Likes: 11
From: New Brunswick (NB)
I've been wrenching on my own cars since I was a teenager. No expert by any means but always open to hearing what works/doesn't work from others.
First car was a rusted out '75 Nova. 2' X 1' plywood patch in the floor under the drivers feet. Sealed it with roofing tar & put the carpet back in. This way I didn't get splashed on my legs when driving thru a puddle.
First car was a rusted out '75 Nova. 2' X 1' plywood patch in the floor under the drivers feet. Sealed it with roofing tar & put the carpet back in. This way I didn't get splashed on my legs when driving thru a puddle.