EGR code 71 stalling
EGR code 71 stalling
I have been having an issue recently where the car would stall, or the idle would randomly drop when sitting at idle for an extended time. Would only happen once completely warmed up. Recently a code 71 popped up, so today I pulled off my egr to clean it and the intake port out.
Then I find this:
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't this the EGR temp sensor plug. It looks like the wiring going to it torched itself against the egr itself. The wiring goes into the same harness as the injectors. How would I go about fixing this? I'm not sure if the wiring itself is torched or just the coating, and the excessive heat causes the problem? Does it seem like this is the cause of the stalling issue? Any tips would be great.
thanks
Then I find this:
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't this the EGR temp sensor plug. It looks like the wiring going to it torched itself against the egr itself. The wiring goes into the same harness as the injectors. How would I go about fixing this? I'm not sure if the wiring itself is torched or just the coating, and the excessive heat causes the problem? Does it seem like this is the cause of the stalling issue? Any tips would be great.
thanks
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: ny
As long as the copper in the wires aren't exposed It shouldnt cause a problem! It doesn't look as if the wires touched and burned thru the protective covering it looks ripped its suppose to be heat resistant so I don't think it was burned. But I would dought that's the problem
looking closer it looks like the wires may be melted too.
Is this in fact the egr temp sensor, or is it an egr position sensor?
The wiring connects to the little sensor that sits in one of the ports on the intake connecting to the egr.
Is this in fact the egr temp sensor, or is it an egr position sensor?
The wiring connects to the little sensor that sits in one of the ports on the intake connecting to the egr.
cleaned everything and putting it all back together, the wiring is definitely burnt though.
Does new wiring need to be spliced in, and what type do I use?
Also, if I unplug the EGR it will take this sensor out of the loop, to at least to drive to work tomorrow?
any help is appreciated
Does new wiring need to be spliced in, and what type do I use?
Also, if I unplug the EGR it will take this sensor out of the loop, to at least to drive to work tomorrow?
any help is appreciated
Update: I ruled out the Fuel Pump ECU today, used a jumper wire, but still got the car to stall coming to a stop.
However, unplugged the MAF and drove around for a while and it seems to have fixed the issue. tomorrow I'll drive it to work to verify this.
My question is, does this point at the MAF as the culprit, or does unplugging the MAF disable other sensors that could be at fault as well?
-another side note it sounds like i Have an exhaust leak on the driver's side, possibly from the cat to the pipe.
However, unplugged the MAF and drove around for a while and it seems to have fixed the issue. tomorrow I'll drive it to work to verify this.
My question is, does this point at the MAF as the culprit, or does unplugging the MAF disable other sensors that could be at fault as well?
-another side note it sounds like i Have an exhaust leak on the driver's side, possibly from the cat to the pipe.
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