1993 sc300 build
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
oh and i have a question for people on here. if you change a caliper, can you change the brake line from one caliper to the other fast enough so that you dont loos all your fluid? or will all the fluid after the bedal drain out? how does that work?
i can get a friend to be adding fluid while I change the caliper if necesary?
thanks for the help
-scott
i can get a friend to be adding fluid while I change the caliper if necesary?
thanks for the help
-scott
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
i figured out the answer to my previous question, i am going to change the caliper and then change all of my brake fluid, good time to do that anyways, i guess. plus my friend has a little bleeder pump thing that i can use.
well, heres a final picture of all the parts out of the car, not sure if you can see very well, but its quite a few broken parts
well, heres a final picture of all the parts out of the car, not sure if you can see very well, but its quite a few broken parts
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
forgot to put up a picture of this, but this took me way to long to get out, it battled me the whole way
(the bold got frozen stuck to the bushing inner sleeve, so i cut the worthless bent lca out and then had to cut through the sleve a couple times to cut the bolt and get it out.
im almost done with the rear susp now, just put in a couple mote bolts and tighten everything down
still looking for a front pass side fender, otherwise im going to the picknpull for one
(the bold got frozen stuck to the bushing inner sleeve, so i cut the worthless bent lca out and then had to cut through the sleve a couple times to cut the bolt and get it out.
im almost done with the rear susp now, just put in a couple mote bolts and tighten everything down
still looking for a front pass side fender, otherwise im going to the picknpull for one
Thread Starter
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From: nor cal
anyways, changed the line over to the new caliper and did the brake fluid today. I used dot 4 after reading through some club lexus threads, although its seems to be back and forth and despite the fact that it specifically says dot 3. oh well, i can always put different fluid in.
I was going to use my friends pressure bleeder but after trying to put in on my reservoir i realized that euros used a different reservoir thread style than the lexus', so i did it with the brake pedal. It seemed to work fine, though i havent driven yet so im not certain.
Hopefully i will finish it up and align it tonight and be driving it again.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
so the new suspension setup that i got swapped on well, except the brakes seem to be different. the caliper looks to be the same as the old one, but the wheel wouldnt fit on. seems that the caliper stuck out to far. so i put the old sc300 brake caliper bracket on and when i took the old one off, they were obviously different sizes. in fact, the sc300 rear brake bracket did not fit over this rotor and onto the hub. seems to be a different sized rotor and bracket. This makes me guess that my new suspension setup was off of a sc400? does anyone know if the rear rotor size was different between the sc300 and sc400 around the early 1990's?
thanks for the hlep
-scott
if my guess is correct, they have a different caliper bracket and rotor, but they share the same pads and calipers. im guessing they have the same knuckles, axles, and links/arms as well?
if so then ill get a sc300 rotor from the pick and pull when i go for a fender
thanks for the hlep
-scott
if my guess is correct, they have a different caliper bracket and rotor, but they share the same pads and calipers. im guessing they have the same knuckles, axles, and links/arms as well?
if so then ill get a sc300 rotor from the pick and pull when i go for a fender
Thread Starter
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From: nor cal
I assembled everything, swapped the old ebrake cable over, reassembled the shoes setup, put the new rotor on, and ran it in second on jack stands. but there seems to be an odd ticking, and im guessing its coming from the shoes. I may have done something wrong in the reassembly? anyone happen to have a picture with their rotor off? im too lazy to take my drivers side apart to compare notes, though I will if I have to.
edit: just realized it might also be due to the fact that I found some clips for the brake pads on the ground (realized I did not install them, haha)
edit: just realized it might also be due to the fact that I found some clips for the brake pads on the ground (realized I did not install them, haha)
Last edited by scott101; Mar 17, 2013 at 09:47 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
i drove my car for the first time in a long time last night. i still need to reconnect the rear swaybar and i think im going to rebleed the brakes cause they feel spongy and my abs light came on. i might also put the old caliper back on. im going to try to use a power bleeder this time. anyways, thats mostly it for now, then ill see how its going. still doing some body work on my hood and i need to align my new fender right, then im going to respray my car i think
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Looking good, I remember this time last year I did something similar drifting and hit a curb at 30MPH. I bent a whole slew of front end suspension components.
Glad to see you put it all back together
Glad to see you put it all back together
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
ya, i just looked through your build thread, similar thing. awesome with the 1j, ive been trying to decide wether to nat or 1j, still not really decided
Thread Starter
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From: nor cal
I think I got air in my abs system when changing a caliper. is that possible? ive bled many times over and the pedal still feels somewhat soft and the abs and brake light is on. should i try to bleed the abs system?
thanks
scott
on a side note, that jerking feeling came back after driving/running the car for the first time after sitting for a while. my suspicion is now that it has to do with the fuel-injectors or filter or something that could be restricting fuel supply.
it came and then it mostly went away
thanks
scott
on a side note, that jerking feeling came back after driving/running the car for the first time after sitting for a while. my suspicion is now that it has to do with the fuel-injectors or filter or something that could be restricting fuel supply.
it came and then it mostly went away
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: nor cal
i bought some new wheels, and I needed to max out the camber in the rear to fit them.
but when I went to do that, it went fine on the side that I had just rebuilt because of the crash but the other side has the same frozen bolt issue as the crashed size did when I had to cut it out.
so I decided I would pull the whole rear end and swap everything onto my other newer subframe.
but I spent a long time hammering on it very hard on the lca bolt and had no luck. so my new plan is so leave the old stuck lca on the old subframe and simply seperate the knuckle from the lca and use another lca that i have that came with the other parts I bought a few months ago.
My only question is, what is the proper way to sperate the lca balljoing from the knuckle?
thanks
scott
but when I went to do that, it went fine on the side that I had just rebuilt because of the crash but the other side has the same frozen bolt issue as the crashed size did when I had to cut it out.
so I decided I would pull the whole rear end and swap everything onto my other newer subframe.
but I spent a long time hammering on it very hard on the lca bolt and had no luck. so my new plan is so leave the old stuck lca on the old subframe and simply seperate the knuckle from the lca and use another lca that i have that came with the other parts I bought a few months ago.
My only question is, what is the proper way to sperate the lca balljoing from the knuckle?
thanks
scott
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From: nor cal
so my old lca bolt was frozen just like the other one, so i decided id just leave that lca in the subframe. so i tried hammering the balljoint out but it didnt work, so i rented a puller today from orillieys. i cranked it as hard as I could with a wrench and gave it two light taps with a hammer and it popped out. this was the second puller i tried because the first one didnt fit, so if your looking for a puller for your rlca ball joints, this is the one you want
if anyone wants this subframe/lca, let me know, ill let it go for $20, youll have to cut out the lca bolt
if anyone wants this subframe/lca, let me know, ill let it go for $20, youll have to cut out the lca bolt
Last edited by scott101; May 10, 2013 at 09:38 AM.