sounds like your kinda going through the same stuff i went just to get my car started...i'll pull some wiring diagrams from work tomorrow and see if i can give you a hand. In the mean time i would keep talking with Dr. Tweak regarding the wiring as he knows better than any of us what he did to your harness and will have a better idea of how to fix it.

thanks, hope someone can help lol

Well, if IJ1 and EB1 are not jumpered like I mentioned, you won't get continuity between the pins you probed. Did you check for continuity on the pins I mentioned earlier? If you checked the ones I told you and have no continuity, then jumpering them should fix you right up.

to jumper the IJ1 and EB1 pins, would i need to run another wire from the IJ1 plugs pin to the fuse box EB1 pin and connect those thow together with the new wire?
and stockhatch i will check those pins for continuity tonight when i get home.

Yep, that should do it.

ill try this tonight, have my fingers crossed

Good luck. And be careful. Don't want to jumper the wrong thing and have the starter motor kick in unexpectedly.

Ill follow your pins you told me

update:
pin 6 is empty on the IJ1 connector.... what now?

Since the pin is physically missing from the plug, that puts a damper in the affair since there is nothing to attach to. I would send that harness back to Dr Tweak at this point. There really should be a wire on that pin, so I think either something was missed on the harness modification, or Tweak has a different way of bypassing the NSS.

I should have asked before, but your car was a factory auto, right?

yep factory auto, now r154. this sux so badly. i dont want to pull the harness off now

If you want to test the starter circuit from switch to relay, here is a dirty way to do it. This should enable you to start the car normally, but is not the right way to do it or a permanent fix...

Find fuse ST in the drivers kick panel:



Run a jumper wire from the ST fuse socket to the starter relay pin 1. Of course the ST fuse and starter relay both have to be installed, so you have to figure out a way to stab the wire and still install the components.

Once this jumper is installed, the car should start and run normally.

Before you plug the jumper in, verify that fuse ST has 0v on either socket with the key turned to "on" and that one of the fuse sockets gets 12v when the key is turned to "start".

why would this not be a permanent solution? whats the downfall of doing this?

Its messy and a hack is all. I mean it will work, but it would be better to do this trick to verify all your components work, and then just add the jumper between EB1 and IJ1. Much cleaner and mobetta