Quick question for my mechanic friends out there. I own a 1995 SC300 5spd with approximately 134k miles. My 2JZGE motor is completely stock other then a K&N drop filter. A few weeks ago I was on my way to a clients office and my SC completely shut off on me rolling down a hill. It started right back up so I thought that maybe I stalled it or something. I thought it was strange so after my appointment I drove to advance auto and had my alternator and battery checked. Both are in excellent condition and the read outs look fine. Then it was running normally with no issues for about three weeks until yesterday. I was on my way home from the office and I noticed my RPM's at idle were WAY low. Idle was around 250 and the car would shake violently at stop lights. I pulled over in an empty parking lot and finally the car just shut off on me. I checked the oil/coolant levels and everything is perfect. She started right back up and had a perfectly normal idle so I just drove her home. I was debating whether to drive my SC to work this morning but she's my only vehicle and I need her to run perfect at all times. That's why I keep the motor stock and haven't done a swap yet. My commute to work today was perfectly normal and fine.

My first assumption is the MAF or maybe a bad ground. I've owned the car for one full year and it's been great so far. I switched from Mercedes to Lexus/Toyota to avoid engine and electrical issues. All of my fears and anxiety returned yesterday when the car was shaking and cut off on me.

What should I do to diagnose the issue? Since it's OBD1, I can't simply use a code scanner. There are no cell lights or indicators on my dash (other than my airbag and rear lights. I'm trying to wire the single stage bag correctly for my air bag and I have 97 tails on my 95 so there is nothing I can affordably do to fix the rear tail light indicators).

Anyone in the NoVa area want to check this out? I can stop by your house, shop, etc.

 

I experienced something similar when my airbox lid wasn't closed all the way. I pulled out of a driveway and had to give it some gas and it just stalled. It started up again and drove normal but opening the throttle really hard with the airbox loose caused it to stall. I could repeat the process so I know that's what it was. As soon as I clipped the lid back down it was fine.

 

Now that you mention it, one of the clips on the air box didn't seemed to be closed. I took the filter out and cleaned it with compressed air. I was thinking about taking the air box assembly apart this weekend and wipe down the MAF and clean everything.

 

I had a very similar problem, solution in the linked thread:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ls-engine.html

 

Thanks. I replaced both my positive and negative battery connectors last summer so I know it's not those. However, I haven't looked at the ground connections in a long time. I'll try your method and see what happens. I still want to clean out the airbox and maf a bit this weekend.

 

My car has stalled 3 times this year. The first time, i thought maybe I

The symptom:
Slowing to a stop, I get a lot of vibration almost like running over a badly paved road. Then the engine stalls.

The first time it happened, I thought maybe i simply forgot to put the car in neutral as I came to a stop. To this day, who knows maybe i did stall this way.

The second time the car was put into neutral right before the car came to a stop as it stalled. Too close, and I figured it was just my bad shifting.

The third time it happened, I was on smooth road, so i noticed the vibration, and I saw that the RPM bouncing between 200 to 800 RPM, just before it dropped - then the lights on the dash came on.

A co-worker with a Solara suggested the same thing about the battery terminals, but I had the battery and alternator tested and did not notice the terminals loose.

I was considering looking into the possibility that the fuel filter is clogged.

Maybe someone here can chime in and list down a list of possible reasons.

 

I had that happen a long time ago to my SC. I figured out it was corroded battery terminals. I cleaned them up and it never happened again.

However that shouldn't make your car run rough. Could be a loose cam or crank position sensor.

 

riding rough was when the RPM was fluctuating. Feels like fuel restriction issue. I will look at the terminals again tomorrow.

 

Engine stalled again on my way home from work yesterday. I restarted it and everything was fine. Then last night I met up with some friends and now the RPM's stick around 1000-1200 even at full warm up. At each stop light the RPM's wouldn't drop past 1000. At one point it crept to around 750, but then jumped back to 1000. What is going on with this thing? Anyways, I'm going to bring this to the shop. Sounds like a $500 day I bet

 

That's weird man...

 

did you check the good ol harness in the driver wheel well? Remember if you havent relocated it then if your car is lowered the tire might eat through it. Happened to me and most everyone on here. Gives the same symptoms you are experiencing!!

 

Pull your codes! You do not need a scanner to get them, just jump terminals Te1 and E1 in your diag port, and turn your key to "On". Your CEL will flash codes. Even though you do not have any visibly lit code, your ECU stores codes from events and not all events will show a permanent CEL.

 

Thanks, but honestly I'm just going to bring it to a shop. I don't have time for issues like this as I have a full time job, a side business, and a new house that I work on with any free time. If the repair is $1,000 or more I'm just going to take off the mods and trade it in for something new. It just sucks because now I have to get a rental car which is going to cost me $100's of dollars.

 

the idle would lead me to belive that its the idle control valve...i had simular issue last year when mine getting off highway wouldnt idle below 1200-1400 i took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner and havent had an issue since. Idle control valve would make the car stall also if its sticking.

 

problem is obd1 cars arent very sensitive to problems like this unless something is very wrong.