So what is the purpose of the valve inside the upper intake manifold on the 2JZGE engines? It opens using a vaccum actuated solenoid ... but what does it do other then restrict air and split the manifold ?

 

gives the na manifold more low end tq. messed with my ems setting for it and i actually gained about 10lbs of tq at peak after i enabled it again

 

But your boosted. Im just doing new gaskets on my engine and figured I would replace / remove whatever parts. Im running the engine N/A and im auto... so Im wondering if this will help / hurt me and if removing it will have any adverse effects on fuel economy and power since its my daily driver.

 

If your not boosted just leave it. You'll get better gas mileage and low end with it hooked up. If your boosted remove.

 

That Valve is part of the ACIS system, toyota has been perfecting this for years and the 2jzge Acis works well.

It does not matter if you are boosted or N/A, this valve gives you more torque and power down low. removing it would be a bad idea especially on an n/a cause an N/A 2jzge without this valve would make less torque on the bottom end and would have a very difficult time moving around the heavy SC from a stop if you know what i mean.

most good sized single turbos do not help down low either so its really a nice valve, toyota didnt sacrifice intake temps for nothing when they went through the trouble of having long length runners, that can switch to low on demand. its an easy trade off for an n/a cause you dont have to worry about intake temps or detonation, so if you are n/a theres more of a reason to keep it. if you are turbo i would only take it out to go FFIM, otherwise it gives you noticeable power and that torque helps you spool quicker, I should know i just learned how to turn mine on in the aem a few months ago.

 

do you know if any of the rumors that it will blow out under high boost have any support behind it?

 

I asked Kurt the same question, there is only 1 picture floating around of it broken, with no real description as to how it happened. who really knows as to the max it can take with peoples setups these days as there are many factors and also if you have it tuned right, (set to open and close at the right times), the default settings in the aem 1101 file do not activate it properly, you must change the outputs. If you are on stock ecu then just leave it it should work fine. People say its made out of the same material as the throttle plate, I really don't see why it would grenade like that and the throttle plate survives just fine. So I guess its still just an unconfirmed rumor, but what do you consider high boost?

Kurt and another member on supraforums are running 20 psi with it and its been holding up fine. I probably wouldnt push it much past that but i think for most thats pretty fair amount of boost to get out of a stock N/A part. read up here.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ntake-Manifold

 

whats the exact setting you have it at in the aem ems? i found one on the forums somewhere sometime ago but im not sure if its 100% correct i only gained 10lbs difference of tq at peak (on dyno) where a lot of people are reporting 15+ lbs?

 

I am using the settings from the thread I posted above.
Kurt: "I've got it enabled. Principle is the same whether it's turbocharged or n/a. Keeping the runners in the "longer" configuration will restrict top end power. In stock form, the valve only closes (longer runners) when below 4500rpm and greater than ~30%tps. This is how I have it set up with the AEM."
Its output LS5 for us on the aem.

you may not see it deliver the max torque on the curve (it could though), but it will raise the torque curve alot earlier in the power band which will help you spool quicker and get into boost faster. check out the graphs posted above in supraforums.

a stock or even single turbo 2jzge will only be making around 200 lbs of torque before the turbo kicks in (3-4k), so a 15 ft/lb increase is actually a 7.5% increase of torque till 4k rpms, right where a turbo motor has the most lag. a 30 ft/lb increse would be 15% increase in power. The GTE does not have anything on that setup and I would say thats pretty significant.

If you delete this valve without going Front facing intake manifold, you are just hurting yourself because the overhead intake manifold on the 2jzge raises intake temps just to have this valve which more than compensates for the increase in temps.
When you remove it, you now just have an overly complicated intake system with higher intake temps that really serves no purpose whatsoever... so then you would buy a FFIM and enjoy full time short runners and lower intake temps, which is best for Very high psi applications.

 

oh i dont think i set my settings right either lol imma go try it and get it dyno'd again next weekend

 

i left mines in there b/c i didn't think it would affect anything plus i was lazy.

 

ali is this right??

 

Im not sure if you want 0kpa.. you want to use a number lower than what you idle at.
I use psi but you want to make sure its active in vacuum, like i know 0 psi is right before you cross into boost, so I use (-11.65) psi which is lower than my lowest vacuum. also you dont want switched output configure on active unless you have actually wired up a switch (you dont need it), that could be making your valve not work also. here are my settings.

 

awesome exactly what i was looking for !

 

FYI BMW uses a similar device on their modern inline 6es