crank pully bolt... please help
I see alot of wrong info going in here...
All you need is this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Schle...motiveQ5fTools
2-breaker bars, and one cheater-pipe. I had the same issue with my crank bolt, but that little tool solved everything, and I will never sell the one I have even though I no longer have a 1jz/2jz.
Sorry mods for the ebay link, but I had to cut the bs short and get to the point.
All you need is this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Schle...motiveQ5fTools
2-breaker bars, and one cheater-pipe. I had the same issue with my crank bolt, but that little tool solved everything, and I will never sell the one I have even though I no longer have a 1jz/2jz.
Sorry mods for the ebay link, but I had to cut the bs short and get to the point.
I've been wanting to show my solution for quite some time. Just some u-channel steel from home depot (thick and long one, no homo). Holes cut for socket and screws for crank. A breaker bar with pipe and this and it popped off instantly. Just make sure you tighten this bar to the pulley or you'll bend the bolts. Worked like a charm and cost $10 bucks!
The added beauty of these tools is that:
a) you totally avoid damage to the pulley/damper
b) you can leave the radiator in place
c) (perhaps the most important) you can securely hold it for properly re-torquing it.
EDIT: added c)
.
Last edited by good2go; Apr 12, 2011 at 08:47 AM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
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From: florida
X u need a chain wrench just like the one I the pic someone set ..& 22mm 3/4 " socket ...3/4 breaker bar ..5ft steel pipe to go over BB. Set chainwrench on crank pulley to lock off on ground ...protection on fender ..put bar on pull from top for ure life in Fla they get tight don't slip remove airbus &rad.. good luck
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fiHr...4F4F94E987483D
heres the vid im going to use when changing out my timing belt i cant remember if its in part 2 or 3 but he has a nifty tool he uses for the crank bolt
heres the vid im going to use when changing out my timing belt i cant remember if its in part 2 or 3 but he has a nifty tool he uses for the crank bolt
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 2
From: Oswego, IL
I had the same problem some years ago. Someone at Toyota thought it would be really funny to torque this down to 600 ft lbs. Most of the 2JZ motors have this issue. The Schley 64300 is totally the way to go, or you can find an impact wrench with 600+ ft lbs. I had an air powered impact wrench putting out 450 and it wouldn't budge. I ended up getting one that went to 750 and it came off easily. This bolt is a total pain.
I had this problem last year. I used a chain wrench with a cheater bar to hold the pulley and a breaker bar with another cheater bar to get the bolt. It was the biggest PITA I've come across. That thing was welded on.
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: az
I used a 1 inch ingersol, and it didn't come off. I did finally get it off with a chain wrench breaker bar and 2 8 foot sections of pipe.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: az
Yeah it wasn't fun we had to basically take apart the front of the car. I'm not sure what airlines we used. My brother works at a shop and we used the 80 gallon compressor they have there.
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