so im really trying to figure out which route to go ..it won't be over night for sure but if i choose the na-t route i could start buying parts here and there.

so far this is my reasons for questioning

my car is a 92 with 140k..
CON to stock 2jz-
theres definitely a lot of oil on the motor itself..im not sure what leaks but something definitely does..i believe the valve covers are one area but id think there could and probably is more..unsure of compression or leak down test results which i'd get done eventually but not willing to do myself(seems to hard to do myself with the manifold going across the motor)

another con imo is how the na-t looks with the stock manifold..i would not change this probably ever

also engine has 140k not too bad but still more then what most 1j's claim to be

PROS - the stock setup can do 300-330whp without changing fuel/hg/tranny

is already single turbo'd for future
don't have to worry about swapping out the engine messing with any crazy wiring or cel's etc..everything works fine right now and just have to get the turbo kit installed and boosting properly

plenty of parts

bigger displacement / more tq

1jzgte-Cons
wiring is either going to take a lot of time or be pretty costly
chancing getting a potentially bad swap
smaller displacement less tq
flow less then the 2j

Pros-
the swap looks clean/stock a huge pro imo..and the main reason i want a 1j
you can find the swaps for pretty damn cheap
swaps are said to have usually between 25-50k miles and are checked for compression and leak down tested
pretty straight forward swap



surely there is quite a bit of stuff im leaving out..but i just want more info or help deciding which route to go..

if i do decide na-t i plan to start piecing things together right after suspension but not imma look toward finding a way to get a 1jz swap

any info or help is appreciated thanks

 

I would say
step 1- Pay a reputable to perform the compression and leak down test to see where your motor is at.

No reason to pull a perfectly good motor

 

definitely a great idea honestly..any clue how much something like that would cost? dont want to get ripped. thanks

also appreciate the response..
i have and do search a lot but theres sooo much old stuff where things have changed dramatically imo and a lot of info is useless or just completely wrong..so its a little easier to just hear what people think who have experience with the subject..
i guess after the comp. check and leak down if all is well i can just part stuff together for na-t if its good if not 1jz

 

Swap ot with a usdm jz of thier 1 to grab qslo what about vvti

 

I would go with a swap, na-t is nice but it does get messy, and aso because people I know that's gone the NA-T route all end up wanting to swap for ease of more power.

However, just because JDM engines claim to have less mileage doesn't mean they are healthier than your 140k engine, if you've opened up an unlucky one you'd know.

 

...why would a swap = ease of more power though?
i know the 2jzge is very very capable of big numbers like the 2jzgte and should be higher then the 1jzgte if you use a thicker HG and arp head bolts..at least from what i read this seems to be so
and i definitely understand that sometimes these "40k mile" engines are in worse shape which is why im unsure which route id want to go
i wonder about it more because i dont really want a ton of power right now..id be very happy with 300whp..which either engine can do..and i love how a 1jz looks in the car vs the na-t(..the 1jz just looks so factory which it is obviously in the soarer)


as far as vvti...idk honestly..i think id rather not go that route to simply keep things simpler..

 

Like ClearP said, just about everyone i know thats done NA-t also have eventually went GTE. Because the GTE comes stock turboed and most importantly has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor, they both compensate for boost better than an NA-T will. NOW, there are plent of na-t's making big power as long as your compression is in check but it will most definitely cost more making the power than a GTE would. Alot of folks here in FL are making 5-700whp with GTE's and using a simple afc2, that would pretty much be impossible without a full standalone and some heavy tuning with a GTE. Simply, any JZ can make serious power, its just how you get there and the GTE will be more reliable and will be easier.

The differences between a 1j and 2j arent much. Considering you already have a sc300, you swap your oil pan, mounts, brackets and ac compressor with lines, DONE. Next its wiring. A 2jz will run you 6-800 just to modify the wiring harness but a 1j is close to plug and play with extending the harness and modding the cluster yourself for a clean tach signal. a 1j will always be a cheaper route, i just finished up a 2j manual swap into my sc400 and i can tell you that it was FAR from cheap and i could have done a 1j manual swap for half the cost.

Hope i helped.

 

Stay with the GE motor if the compression test comes back good. I would suggest biting the bullet and going AEM or another standalone EMS instead of trying to piggy back the NA ecu. You can always get a TT style intake manifold later on. With 1j you will end up going single anyway and the costs will catch up.

 

yea i think thats what i plan to do..if the comp. test is good then ill just do a na-t build
my engine feels good through the power band and if i fix whatever oil leaks and the comp is good might as well..thanks for the input every really appreciated.

 

Well said!

 

if all your looking for is 300whp a 1jz can do that easily. and if you wanna go higher you can have the stock turbos ported and steel wheeled then they are good for around 250hp each. the 1j and 2j are both great motors it may come down to what fits your budget

 

budget is pretty low wont lie..i dont want to drop a couple thousand at a time doing this..i think id rather piece a kit together..
the only chance id get everything at once is if i were to trade a spare set of 20" davin spinners i have laying around but..typically people dont care for this style of rim so they aren't very easy to get rid of ..not to mention they aren't a cheap wheel

but other then that it'll be pieced together and pretty cheap (probably XS parts which seem to be good quality from what ive seen)

 

Agree with most that you should just do Na-t for your power goals

 

My motor is about to reach 140k and I'm planning to boost it pretty soon as I'm slowly piecing together parts. Going to just drive it/save up till the motor craps out then I'll part everything out and pick up a 1jz or 2jz depending on the deal. This might be something for you to consider too

 

If you going Na-T you should buy the EMS first before the Turbo, that's what i did atleast.

Why will the Na-T blow up? but don't forget a couple members went thru couple GTE blocks already lol.