DrBrown54

I've done a lot with cars from imports to racing circle track. I'm getting out of all of that and I'm considering building my dream car. I've wanted an SC300 since back in the 90s and I recently realize they have a very good drivetrain platform which makes it even better. I'm considering finding a 95 or earlier 300for a project car. I'm hoping someone can either talk me into it or talk me out of it. I have a handful questions that my general searching didn't find that hopefully you can answer.

1) Are the different models of this engine non-interference? Meaning, will the engine explode if a timing belt goes out?

2) If I'm forced to get a higher mileage 3.0 can I expect to get 400-450whp w/out seeing aluminum puddles? And any differences from OBD1 to OBD2 to be concious of?

3) Do the oem head gaskets handle 10-15psi w/out blowing out on NA motors?

4) Are there any known plagued areas for rust or anything to be looking for when inspecting one for sale?

5) Is there enough room in the engine bay to say these are fun to work on? I've had FWD tuner cars that made me want to commit suicide trying to change the oil lol. I don't want that again!

6) How harsh do these chassis ride when they are lowered an inch or two? Because they look fantastic lowered a bit on 19s.

I think that's it. I've found answers to my other retarded questions that I won't bother you with. I came here because I want to hear owners opinions rather than fan boys on some other forum. I've been lurking for a while and there's more maturity here than most places I've been. So props to the mods for keeping things civil here!

attzor

iTrader: (1)

1) Are the different models of this engine non-interference? Meaning, will the engine explode if a timing belt goes out?
92-96 are non interference.
2) If I'm forced to get a higher mileage 3.0 can I expect to get 400-450whp w/out seeing aluminum puddles? And any differences from OBD1 to OBD2 to be concious of?
as long as the compression is good, the motor is good, sc300 714 has like 320k miles and just went na-t.
3) Do the oem head gaskets handle 10-15psi w/out blowing out on NA motors?
no, most people limit the boost to 9psi on stock headgaskets
4) Are there any known plagued areas for rust or anything to be looking for when inspecting one for sale?
Not that I know of, check the usual spots.
5) Is there enough room in the engine bay to say these are fun to work on? I've had FWD tuner cars that made me want to commit suicide trying to change the oil lol. I don't want that again!
tons of room in the sc300's, none in the sc400's.
6) How harsh do these chassis ride when they are lowered an inch or two? Because they look fantastic lowered a bit on 19s.
idk I havent had wheels bigger than 17's.


Should you get one? yes, I'm on my third, I started with a 1jz 5spd car running a 70mm single turbo, to a stock sc400, now to a stock sc300, which I will soon run a NA-t kit on myself. I keep coming back to these cars because there is just something about them, they're roomy, theres enough leg room for my big ***, and the potential always gives you something to look forward to doing. The value of these things just cant be beat.

OaklandLex

iTrader: (1)

I have a 93 SC300, so my engine can be ruined if a timing belt goes out?

attzor

iTrader: (1)

No other way around, 96+ are interference, so valves will make contact with the pistons if the timing belt breaks. 92-96 valves will not make contact with the pistons in the event of a timing belt break.

DrBrown54

Beat me to it. And thanks for all the information!

Only being able to push 8-9psi is pretty limiting. I couldn't find many dyno results from na-t cars running lower boost but Im guessing the 9psi would yeild 320whp max? Seems like a swap might be the better coarse of action for reliability's sake because 400-450whp is going to require changes that you would normally get with an engine swap. I have much more thinking to do now...

OaklandLex

iTrader: (1)

What a relief lol thanks for that info

kwg

iTrader: (1)

what are you planning to do with the car? track, drag, drift, etc.? if i were you i'd pick up a clean rolling chassis and swap a 1jz and go from there since youre looking for those kind of numbers.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

^^ speaking of rust . . .

being from Cali, I don't see too much rust here, but from the looks of other cars on this board, I'd say you should check out the suspension control arm bolts, the fuel filter, brake caliper bleeders, etc.


Also, many people pop the head on the GE, replace the head studs, and use the GTE head gasket to lower the compression a bit without having to go to the whole effort of machining for a metal type gasket. I don't think 400 to 450 is at all unreasonable with that setup, provided you get a decent EMS and a quality tune, and it's still pretty minimal as far as engine re-work.

DrBrown54

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

kwg, I don't plan on racing much. I've done the drag racing and circle track racing and I'm too busy for it anymore. I just want an all around fun cruiser with 400+ that looks great. I had a 95 probe I built a turbo setup for that made 320whp but it was WAY too much for FWD. One wheel burnouts are cool and all, just not for me! So this would just be a cruiser that I'll open up late a night when everyone's asleep.

good2go, I assume the GTE head gasket is a touch thicker? I think I read that the stock 3.0 was 10:1 c/r. Is it really that high? That's pretty dangerous for boosting territory w/out reducing timing. EMS would prolly be mandatory. It would make sense why low boost is the only option if it's 10:1. Thanks for the thoughts. Good stuff!!

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

car is 10:1 and yes 9 psi is about max on stock hg..should yield 300-330 depending on setup of course..a thicker HG will lower comp to a more reasonable level for high boost..
the ge and gte internally are about the same except the gte has oil squirters..not a big deal..the ge can easily make 400-500whp with a thicker hg
one thing you will need if u make over 350 is a tranny that can hold that much..5spd trannys like the w58 can take in the 4's while the r154 is said to handle 6-700whp

i say get one..although at the moment im having some issues that really upset me this is still by far the best car ive owned..it has tons of potential the ride is great has a good amount of luxuries and plenty of room..the only down side is luxury adds weight...so these cars are heavy but everything is fantastic on these cars imo.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

GTE pistons are significantly different (to reduce compression) when compared to the GE; it's not just HG that accounts for the lower comp in the GTE.

imDementeD

iTrader: (7)

^ yea i didnt add that...my fault..i know they are different as far as shape but still the same strength unless im mistaken?
i was mainly comparing the strength of how much abuse one can take..since it was mentioned that the ge was 10:1 i figured this was already known that its different but by using a thicker HG you can lower it to gte levels and get the same results.

DrBrown54

I dug around a bit more and Bean made a post back in 03 that stated the TT 3.0 GTE gasket was supposedly thicker than the GE gasket and could effectively reduce c/r down a touch. This may be an error but when I checked out how much the head gaskets were on RockAuto.com they list the exact same part number for all of the 3.0 DOHC engines (sc300, supra TT, supra NA etc). I just used the FelPro part number 26297PT. Not sure if more research has been done but Bean said he was buying his from Toyota for ~$130. A lots probably changed since 03.

good2go

iTrader: (6)

I would use the genuine Toyota part