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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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Default good arms

who makes good adjustable arms for the sc?
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:41 AM
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Which arms exactly are you speaking of? Battler Version makes some good Traction and toe arms, I keya Formula makes good everything but is exspensive as hell
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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Lookin for rucas tie rod ends rear ladder bars. I was wondering if there was somthing cheaper than ikeya formula
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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i was looking as well and all i have come up with besides ikeya formula and battle version is Megan
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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yeah nagisa is cheaper but so far there isnt an easy way to get them.

Yanack also has some stuff but again not easy to get
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:19 AM
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may i ask why you need them? what is your reasoning for getting them?
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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race car... i wanted full adjustability. like my s13 but i guess thats not going to happen... i found some stuff at rhd japan. I dont like megan..... id rather pay the extra and get super now tierod ends from rhd. lookin at cutting knuckles 16.5mm and putting in jun tierods with super now ends... so i can get like 55* angle. super now claims with their cut tierod ends you can get 45* without cutting. so maybe ill get those and cut knuckles aswell. i saw pics of a soarer in Canada they claimed 70* of angle after cutting in their shop.
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by d1trainee
race car... i wanted full adjustability. like my s13 but i guess thats not going to happen... i found some stuff at rhd japan. I dont like megan..... id rather pay the extra and get super now tierod ends from rhd. lookin at cutting knuckles 16.5mm and putting in jun tierods with super now ends... so i can get like 55* angle. super now claims with their cut tierod ends you can get 45* without cutting. so maybe ill get those and cut knuckles aswell. i saw pics of a soarer in Canada they claimed 70* of angle after cutting in their shop.
racecar or drift car?

you dont want nor do you need to cut knuckles for increased angle for any type of real road racing. in fact cutting the knuckles will give you more angle but make your steering progressive instead of linear how it should be. basically the more you turn the more the wheels will turn. feels kind of weird at first.

for drifting you can do it because it doesnt really matter. you want to get max angle and have your steering wheel a bit away from full lock.

suspension setups on s-chassis and the sc are completely different thus what works there doesnt necessarily will work or even necessary on the SC.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 08:05 AM
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Yea its a drift car. I realize the suspension is different than a 240s. However the pricipal remains the same and thats full adjustability. Slamming the car on stance gr2's is going to change alot about the alignment like camber and maybe toe. also i want a lil bit of toe in the rear since this will be driven primarely on a track drifting so tire wear isnt really a issue either. camber settings in the rear, roll center adjustment, caster up front. it all plays a role in drifting and each one is important.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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If i am thinking of the drift car you were speaking of from canada he is currently having issues with over centering (i think) where the tierod actually goes beyond the point it should on the knuckle and you cant turn the wheel back.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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Is it the oz designs one? Theres a member here who took 15mm off his knuckles and he gets good angle. So i figure take 15 off And use adjustable ends so i can find that limit and then back em off a bit. Sounds logical right? I mean is the stock suspension that good? Ive seen those daizen camber kits and bushings. What do most people do, battle ver. Toe and traction rods and then putin new poly bushings in? Im for sure getting jic rods and super now rod ends, and stance gr2 coils. Affer that im trying to figure things out. Btw i hate pressing new bushings cuz i suck at it.

Last edited by d1trainee; Jul 16, 2010 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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For angle the stock suspension sucks. For angle I'd do knuckles and Tie rods inner/outer. So far I havent run into anything the factory camber adjustment can't fix for me. Stock arms with nice bushings seem to be cool. replace subframe bushings and do toe rods and traction arms in the rear. That can all be done before getting into real serious money
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRonTom3
For angle the stock suspension sucks. For angle I'd do knuckles and Tie rods inner/outer. So far I havent run into anything the factory camber adjustment can't fix for me. Stock arms with nice bushings seem to be cool. replace subframe bushings and do toe rods and traction arms in the rear. That can all be done before getting into real serious money
this!!!...
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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sounds alot like the plan i was drawing out. i was actually looking for subframe spacers or solid mounts.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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I'm pretty new to SC300 and if you searched you'd see what's out there.

I'm currently in the process of just getting my alignment within the specs I want.

I think I'm just going to get the RLCAs cut shorter to dial camber out (more POSITIVE) and then get the BV toe arms for toe adjustment in the rear.

The front surprisingly has adjustable caster stock and can go pretty high if you want it to.
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