Well I'm getting close to having my car all set to go out and actually participate at events. Coming up I am going to be doing the manual swap, dropping the rear subframe for collars and diff busings, welding the diff (trying to afford a 4.08 rear end to weld), and set up my suspension more.

Now being its a drift car and importance to me is the car looks good while not handling like a complete bag or sloppy wet boners i need to input from people with expirience. My car sits super low and I am not willing to compromise with ride height so what I am trying to do is remove as much body roll as possible so this way the body will sit pretty much flat with very little deflection even when mid drift. Mainly doing this to save my sideskirts and front bumper from being torn off.

Currently my suspension is not very set up. All stock arms and sway bars with tokico JZA80 shocks and JZA80 sprint springs 9.59K front 5K rear. If I moved to Koni yellow shocks would I be able to keep the sprint springs because I love them. Koni yellows have by review true damper adjustability and can be pretty stiff on full hard close to most coilovers set ups from what i have read.

Sway bar wise should I go with the largest I can find all around to fight the body roll or stagger and go with something larger in the rear and stock sized in the front so the front is a bit looser.

 

everyone prefers a specific setup really.
i have stance coilovers, prothane bushings, PBM subframe collars, solid diff mounts, TM engineering steering rack bushings, super now super cutter tie rod ends and uras tie rod spacers.

I am still on stock sway bars and i feel the car is very predictable, i do have my rear sway bar un hooked also which makes the car snap back alot faster.

 

speaking of power steering.... do you think aftermarket power steering coolers are necessary on a car running anything below a 9" wheel up front

 

agreed. i went from tiens ha's to zeals and it was a night and day difference. i also bought the tanabe front sway bar for support and used the polly sway bar bushings and metal mounts. i also added prothane bushings all the way around and a new steering rack with tm bushings. i can tell the handling in my car has massly increased when i turn the wheel it responds very fast and i just recentlly put a do luck strut tower bar in. im just missing outer tie rods to complete the setup i'm going for

but just start small and work your way up have what is your ultimate goal

 

i have part shop max comp coilovers, PSM subframe collars, PSM solid diff mounts, daizen steering rack bushings, and steering spacers.

i still need to replace my bushing as my fronts are shot and i can feel my rear getting play as well.

i run a PS cooler up front since i ended up smashing the stock cooler lines for the PS..
i wouldnt say its needed though.

dont pay attention too much on the sway bars, get some good coilovers, and some polyurethane bushings. from there you might wanna start feeling what you may want.

 

the sway bar helps a small bit but as always .all about what u want to spend

 

The biggest difference you will see is when you trade in your tokico JZA80 shocks and JZA80 sprint springs 9.59K front 5K rear for a good coilover setup. i have ran hks, jic, and stance and i would say jic for drifting purposes. once you do that and get a quality diff or weld (i know nothing about a welded diff) then try out your skill in drifting. all the added parts that were mentioned in other posts will help you but to what extent is to be determined. seat time is key.

 

In drifting their is no way you will save your body piece from getting torn off. Especially if your new and want to keep on drifting. one day it will get torn off. its part of learning. you cant learn without making mistakes

 

oh i know its going to get torn off sooner or later, but with the body roll i have now it would shred off with the first intiation and get caught under the car and shredded

 

TT MK4 supra suspension (brakes all around, LCA's, struts, lowering springs, cut knuckles) stage 3 clutch kit (6puc disc etc), welded diff, solid motor mounting & damper.
(TT LCA's were a big help) I still need rack bushings though.

Mine slides easy, ride is good. Best to just drive- learn your car. Those sc3's have enough weight to flip around, more power helps too.

 

whatever coilover you go with they should have high spring rates, mine are 18front 12 rear IIRC, get all the solid arms and bushings you can, I run a small PScooler because my fluid boiled over once. just think solid and strong and stiff. I use the stock sway bars but I'm trying to find a US distributor of Largus bars.

and try not to do everything at once, so you notice a difference everytime you change something.

 

You're Dave from PBM aren't you?

I knew you were PBM sponsored but didn't know you worked there. We talked on the phone the other day about tie rod spacers. I found a few sets of tie rod spacers floating around and tie rod ends aren't hard to find at all.

I am also currently working with a friend on making some custom ends sort of like the Megan MKIV ends but much beefier and with QA1 pieces for about the same price. He is considering marketing them as he just finished the set for his S13.

Another thing that came up last night is my car has traction control, can I even weld the diff in this case? I was figuring just disable Traction control and I'm good to go.

 

You're gonna want a stiff setup for a car that big and heavy. Coilovers and swaybars with bushings for the arms and you'll need some kind of adjustable arms/links for camber and caster adjsutment.

If you want a custom BCR coilover setup let us know, we can get a custom set for you with drift spec rates.

 

yes sir that is me :-)

and about the diff, I would try to get a 2way.
once u weld it, u can't unweld it and I don't know how much gears cost if they explode

 

i read a post the set up is what is the most comfortable with you so get a notebook and some pylons and a parking lot the start adjusting , ths is the only way you would get it to suit your driving style start at the middle of the set up the slowly move up the ex 1 hardest 10 softest start with 5 if your coil overs have 5 inch adjustments start at 2.5 downwards i use JIC COIL OVERS THEIR REBUILDABLE and dont forget that data is were you can fine tune your ride just my 2 cents