thats awesome thanks alot man

ok i kind of combined all the info in this thread into some veeeeeery crude diagrams. as i understand this is what all the wiring should look like if your putting in a jdm gte ecu with the ge harness and AEM 5Bar MAP & AIT sensors. if im wrong let me know

(the second one was the 1st one earlier, fixed it up a lil bit)

^^^ thats how I have it figured, and have already spliced and extended and added the MAP and IAT sensor clips. So I hope thats right

Wow, I like it. I guess i'm not the only one who still uses MS paint :D.
Everything is right on, except I just wanted to clarify that you wouldn't actually use a 5 bar map sensor, you would be using a TT map sensor (2.3 bar) or something very close to it, the wiring is the same for all map sensors.

As for the tps stuff you drew, you don't need to worry about that at the maf connnector, the 2 wires that are shared are +5v and ground, and they are connected together way before it gets to the airflow connector. Your diagram would be better if you removed the tps arrows. the pins on the tps connector need to be moved around though, they are all there the TT one is just upside down or something and i was told it can be swapped easily at the tps.

your second diagram is perfect just remember to use a TT map sensor and all will be good, Thanks for drawing that out!

well see im getting all the parts this week
should start messing with wires next week
let me know how yours goes man
o hey i know that the sc o2 sensor is a 1 wire design
im getting an aristo ecu which guess uses a 3 wire
now im looking at the gte pinout and im seeing i think 2 spots that say Ox pins 47 (Ox2 signal sub heated oxygen sensor) & 48 (Ox1 signal main heated oxygen sensor)
on both the ge & gte pinouts pins 79 & 80 say "EO2/1 power ground" do these have anything to do with it?
i guess my question is where do i wire in the leads from the o2 sensor into the ecu?

yeah i got you thats just what im getting
or do you think the aem 3.5 would be better

3.5 bar map sensor would throw off the gte ecu pretty badly, i wouldn't recommend anything over 2.5 bar and even then you should be running bigger injectors of an safc to compensate for that.

There is alot of info out there on different size injectors and map sensors being used with a TT ecu. I suggest you do some research but a 2.5 bar give you a slight increase in boost cut somewhere in the neighborhood of 18-20 psi (stock is around 16 if i remember right) and will only require you to add a little more fuel (you can use 550cc injectors instead of 440cc o use an safc to add fuel)

the general rule is the more you increase your map sensor, the more you lower the real load signal. now you must compensate fuel and timing. fuel is easy cause you can change injectors to match but now your timing is off by that amount of difference in load. This is not easily corrected even with a piggyback and you may notice driveability problems, bad idle, and possibly detonation at higher levels of boost if you don't correct for it. this is why its recommended to only do a slight change in map signal if you do it at all, so you will at least be relatively close to the right timing.

http://www.floridasupras.com/wiring-...cu-pinout.html
47B is Oxygen sensor (Sub) AFR signal
72B is Oxygen sensor (Sub) Heater ground

48B is Oxygen sensor (main) AFR signal
71B is Oxygen sensor (main) Heater ground

both of them also need a power wire, I don't recall the pin for that one.

awesome thanks

no prob, you guys are making me want to test my JDM ecu out now.. lol.
and I just got my car running right finally.

Try and find a FIELDS patch harness so you dont hack up the stock harness to bad, it will also aid if you plan to join a ME2 or SAFC later on too:thumbup:

And I will be ordering my o2 sensors this weekend.


Do it!!:D..also speaking of the MAP sensors, do you think a GM 3bar will throw everything off too badly? or should I go ahead and get an SAFC right away?

"Chris " is "AliSC" is my Twin lol he won't do it , not that it's a bad thing but when you are EMS you wouldn't wanna go with stock ECU and Specially the car has been running Great so far.....
I would have done this setup if i didn't have AEM.

I think the whole beauty of this setup is the ability to use stock everything.
there are many different combos people run, some are good for street, some are only good for drag that you would never think of driving on the street, and some are dyno queens with unrealistically large injectors and map sensors that work on WOT, but good luck trying to parallel park that beast.

I actually tried a gm 3 bar map sensor and I couldn't get the car to run at all.
Plus it would put you in more aggressive timing in boost and your idle may suffer, and if you think about it its unecessary to take this trade off.
If you can live under 16 psi (or 20+ with a piggyback), use the stock TT map sensor and your car will run the best.

I recommend using the TT map sensor for this mod, I tried a few other ones without a whole lot of success.
Apparently, the stock ecu likes the stock map sensor.

Gotcha, guess its time to find the 2.3bar MS..Only thing I am concerned with now is the GTE ecu controlling the stock GE auto trans, but if not I have a backup plan. im working on my FIELDS harness now, and this weekend will be finishing up my new FFIM and Q45 TB, so hopefully I will have some pics and possibly video of it up an running..soon.

good luck with the trans, hopefully it will work out.

i found some helpfull info for you in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-1g-gs300.html

"The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however"

Since you are doing the opposite, if you could retain the cable to control the line pressure (doesn't it come off the throttle body to the trans? its already there so don't remove it), then the transmission could theoretically operate just like before and just leave the electronic control from the TT ecu doing nothing (theres no where to connect it to anyways). I would imagine you may get a code or 2 for this, but maybe there is a way to trick it into thinking its connected.

yeah i guess im kinda lucky there i got a 5-speed :)