Hey Ali SC3, I have a question. This is going to sound dumb, but I need some direction here. Basically from what I am reading this won't work, but I figure I would post it up anyways.

Basically the problem I am having is I am working on a friends 97 Supra (OBD2 obviously) NA-T car. The OBD2 is really screwing us over. It will run decent (not great) for 50 miles, then all of the sudden it will start misfiring, and throwing codes for it, but only in the first bank.
I was wondering if I could use a USDM TT ECU OBD2 and make his car run? I would probably want to convert to speed density, but I can find a stock TT maf if necessary.

Is there any piggy back that won't throw codes and will make the car run decently on OBD2? The reason we have to keep OBD2 is because of emissions down here.

Bump, I have verified this works, drove my car around all day long on both coilpack setups. runs like a factory turbo car.

Will you be taking any vids?

Bit of a late response, I didn't see your post on this last page till right now.
odb2 GE ecu's on na-t just don't seem to work out too well. I would at the least recommend trying it without any o2 sensors connected. no piggyback will save you from it.
I don't see why you couldn't make an ODB2 USDM TT ECU work, its basically the same thing I just did. they probably have the same ecu connector, and you compare the pinouts, and you add whats missing and reuse the old pins for some stuff.

other option is running an odb1 tt ecu on the side for just the engine functions.
The downside is alot of redundancy and splicing though.

Yes, I actually took one earlier today before I swapped out to the vvti coils.
I will take a good one tomorrow of the vvti coils, and maybe clean up the bay a little bit.
The car has been sitting in a garage for months.

here it is, for some reason after i uploaded the sound started working?
pls excuse the zip ties, it was temporary to hold ignitor down.. lol

Very nice dude. Gotta love a factory reliable tune, huh? :)

It idles very smooth. So I could do this mod and use mapecu to adjust my fuel correct?

^ Correct you can do that, the map is just a piggy back so yeah you can do it and your car will run like a bone stock 2jzgte i am talking in terms or reliability.

I was going that route, but i wanted to run E85 and i didn't wanna replace my HG with a TT one .

Ali's car wouldn't been done long time ago , it was crazy gm map sensor that threw everything off..

I am running almost the same setup and the only difference on my i am on EMS, same Cols and ignitior but GM3bar map sensor.

Yeah it idles very smooth, drives even smoother and I wasn't expecting that with my big FFIM and throttle body.
It does run a bit rich so I am wiring up a heated o2 sensor, but its only 4 wires so no big deal.

This is by far the best mod I did to my car. The only extra thing is with the aristo ecu you need to wire up an extra relay for the a/c to work. the aristo uses a ground signal and the sc uses a 12v or something like that. I will post the link to the fix later on the main page, its on my other computer.

My A/c deosn't now, Brad tried to set it up but it sound like the compressor is not even kicking ON ..It's 106 today in MD .
Did you have to do anything to get your A/C work when you had the AEM?

Thanks!

There was a setting you can mess with, can't remeber exactly which one

More than likely I will be running the supra gte ecu, only if I can usdm gte ecu.

You can use an usdm ecu. You will just be using a maf instead of a map sensor

Fixed :D

I am torn between keeping my JDM ecu and getting a SAFC to use with USDM 550s, or just going full USDM fuel and not having to mess with the piggyback. I want to max my hybrids on pump gas, and I think a USDM OBDII ecu, 550s, and usdm or 264 cams would get me to around 430-450whp.

Lol, technically you are right, but the pressure sensor on usdm is not used for fueling so its not as important.
I have heard good things with the 550's on the jdm ecu and a piggyback.
I would personally not leave the map sensor setup just to run 550's, you will have to rewire to get the maf in, you might as well take the same time to install the safc, then you have alot more flexibility in the future.

Yeah that's why I am torn. I know that a stock OBDII USDM ecu and fuel will do around 450whp with no piggyback needed. That is so tempting, just to keep that factory stock tune and its associated reliability and predictability. I know you know where I am coming from on this one. ;)

I do know I will be limited above 450whp, but until I go single and address the entire fuel system and EMS, I won't be going over 450whp anyway.

It's a tough call for me. I don't know that I will ever want or need 600+whp because I dont want to listen to loud pumps and have to deal with a tune that's not perfect and consistent for dd use...