Tech : Installing Aristo J3 Transmission to your 1G GS300
06-27-10, 07:17 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: sparta
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tech : Installing Aristo J3 Transmission to your 1G GS300
All of this information is already available on the forum. However, it is very scattered. I would like to create a single post, with all of the information you need, so that someone can easily print the page and be prepared for the conversion.
This has nothing to do with a 2JZGTE swap, but rather installing the 2JZGTE Aristo transmission to your current 2JZGE engine.
Goal:
Install the 2JZGTE aristo transmission to GS300, which is cheaper than a new transmission, should yours die. Also, prepares your GS300 for possible NA-T in the future.
Sources:
Craigslist/ebay, lots of Aristo transmissions available. The going rate is around $200, but I've seen them for less.
Also check clublexus classifieds and supraforums classifieds. Almost anyone who does an aristo 2jzgte engine swap does not use the transmission.
Install notes:
- Re-use original GS300 tailshaft (Socket Size xxMM)
- Possible difference in cooler line mounting, if so, remove aristo temp sensor fitting and add original GS300
- Trans Mount direct fit
- Aristo trans will not have the line pressure cable.
- See pictures in post #8 regarding how to internally modify the Aristo transmission using some of the GS300 parts.
Torque Converter Notes:
This section will deal with the differences in the TQ converters. Obviously the Aristo one is much larger. It also uses 17mm bolts vs 14mm bolts on the 2JZGE. More info will be posted as it is discovered.
Picture Gallery:
GS300 TQ converter top, Aristo TQ converter bottom
GS300 Trans Line left, Aristo Trans line w/ temp sensor right
Wiring Diagrams:
- TBA
Part Number List:
- Coming Soon
Specs:
GS300 Transmission (2JZGE)
Ratios 1st:2.804 , 2nd:1.531 , 3rd:1 , 4th:0.705
Aristo V300 Transmission (2JZGTE)
Transmission 4 speed automatic
Top gear ratio 0.71
Tools:
30mm socket to remove tailshaft, DEEP
If you have more information, please post or PM so I can add it to this first post.
This has nothing to do with a 2JZGTE swap, but rather installing the 2JZGTE Aristo transmission to your current 2JZGE engine.
Goal:
Install the 2JZGTE aristo transmission to GS300, which is cheaper than a new transmission, should yours die. Also, prepares your GS300 for possible NA-T in the future.
Sources:
Craigslist/ebay, lots of Aristo transmissions available. The going rate is around $200, but I've seen them for less.
Also check clublexus classifieds and supraforums classifieds. Almost anyone who does an aristo 2jzgte engine swap does not use the transmission.
Install notes:
- Re-use original GS300 tailshaft (Socket Size xxMM)
- Possible difference in cooler line mounting, if so, remove aristo temp sensor fitting and add original GS300
- Trans Mount direct fit
- Aristo trans will not have the line pressure cable.
- See pictures in post #8 regarding how to internally modify the Aristo transmission using some of the GS300 parts.
Torque Converter Notes:
This section will deal with the differences in the TQ converters. Obviously the Aristo one is much larger. It also uses 17mm bolts vs 14mm bolts on the 2JZGE. More info will be posted as it is discovered.
Picture Gallery:
GS300 TQ converter top, Aristo TQ converter bottom
GS300 Trans Line left, Aristo Trans line w/ temp sensor right
Wiring Diagrams:
- TBA
Part Number List:
- Coming Soon
Specs:
GS300 Transmission (2JZGE)
Ratios 1st:2.804 , 2nd:1.531 , 3rd:1 , 4th:0.705
Aristo V300 Transmission (2JZGTE)
Transmission 4 speed automatic
Top gear ratio 0.71
Tools:
30mm socket to remove tailshaft, DEEP
If you have more information, please post or PM so I can add it to this first post.
Last edited by DrLex; 07-04-10 at 04:47 PM.
06-30-10, 04:29 PM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: sparta
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This thread is more geared toward what it takes to do the swap.
I'm waiting for those who have done the swap, to offer their notes. Any differences between the 2 transmissions physically, will also be noted. Just keep an eye on the first post. They both have the same designation (30-40LE), so I don't think there should be too many differences internally.
I'm waiting for those who have done the swap, to offer their notes. Any differences between the 2 transmissions physically, will also be noted. Just keep an eye on the first post. They both have the same designation (30-40LE), so I don't think there should be too many differences internally.
Last edited by DrLex; 06-30-10 at 04:33 PM.
07-02-10, 02:29 PM
#6
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check out Supraforums, this info is clearly broken down and several people have done the swap...it involves swapping out the valve bodies.
Kruso
Kruso
Last edited by Kruso; 07-03-10 at 09:55 AM. Reason: spell check
Trending Topics
07-03-10, 12:20 AM
#8
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes it would... the GS300 shares the same trans as the Supra NA and the SC300 and the Aristo trans is the trans as the TT trans minus the tail shaft. Here's the writeup of someone who's completed it with pictures.
INTRODUCTION
The A340E we will be discussing came mated to both the 2JZ-GTE (TT Supra and Aristo) and 2JZ-GE(SC300 and Non-Turbo Supra). It also came in the 4runner, Tacoma, and some Jeeps and Volvos. The A340 is different than the A341 which came in SC400s and LS400s, with the short explanation of the differences is that the A341 has a slightly longer 1st gear.
The bellhousings of the TT auto and N/A autos will both bolt up to the 2jz, however on a visual inspection the TT bellhousing is slightly larger to clear the larger TT torque converter.
While I am not sure how similar the A340E from the SC300 is to the A341E in the SC400 I would imagine the link below which is about swapping input shafts. Theoretically though you should be able to swap the input shafts on the two trannies which would allow you to retain your SC300 torque converter, flexplate, and flexplate bolts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi.../t-336619.html
The tailshafts are also different with the n/a tranny having a hole for the driveshaft to slip into and the TT auto having a bolt on flange. Swapping tailshafts is much harder though as you'd need to literally disassemble the entire transmission to swap the tailshafts.
Here is a thread which should give you a general idea of what you'd need to do to swap tailshafts.
http://www.supras.nl/index.php?optio...d=35&Itemid=52
Links
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost..._DIAGNOSIS.PDF
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT08.pdf
DIFFERENCES
TT Auto
- HP Limit -425-450 w/ a good cooler.
- Valve body has 4 solenoids, the 4th solenoid controls line pressure electronically. This allows smoother shift modulation.
- Has a larger torque converter that is more efficient.
- TT torque converter requires use of a TT flexplate and TT flexplate bolts.
- Driveshaft bolts onto the transmission to a 3 bolt flange.
- Has a different input shaft than the n/a tranny.
- Has more clutch packs than the n/a auto.
- Valve body solenoids activate linearly allowing more precise transmission control.
N/A Auto
- HP Limit : ~325-350 w/ a good cooler
- Transmission line pressure is controlled by a cable and only has 3 solenoids in the valve body.
- Has a slip type tailshaft housing for the driveshaft. Driveshaft slips into the transmission itself.
- Valve body solenoids have an on and off activation.
The biggest problem with the n/a auto's in our cars is the fact that it has an extremely low HP limit.
You can shim the accumulators in the N/A auto which allows for quicker shifts, reducing the amount of time the clutch packs slip and therefore creates less heat allowing for more hp. But the problem with n/a A340's compared to the TT auto is there is a limit to shimming in the fact that it simply doesn't have enough clutch packs to hold much power.
So far, people with n/a auto's don't have many options when it comes to stronger tranny's. BL and many other companies offer rebuilds that allow for a higher hp limit but these services generally cost around 2 grand and can't hold much more than the stock TT auto, which isnt' very much more considering how much it costs. In these services the most notable change is they swap out the clutch packs with raybestos blue plate clutch packs which are stronger.
When you shim the accumulators however, you should may want to consider shimming the 1-2 shift a little less agressively because the next weakness in the tranny after clutch packs is the 2nd gear sprague and hard 1-2 shifts can break it.
The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however.
A 1500 dollar solution to simple transmission control.
Latent Solutions makes the 'suprastick' tranny controller but it will only work with the n/a valve body, ie: valve bodies with mechanical line pressure.
Pictures
The TT tranny is the bottom tranny and the n/a tranny is the top tranny. Here you can see the differences in the tailshafts and that the two trannies are almost identical internally.
Closeup of an n/a tranny.
Closeup of a TT tranny.
The TT valve body is on the bottom and the N/A valve body is on top. You can tell the TT valve body is much larger and doesnt have the two tubes going into the back part of the tranny. One of these tubes sends fluid to the B3 accumulator while the other one sends fluid to lubricate the tailshaft.
This is a picture of an n/a tranny's clutchpacks.
Here you can see that the TT tranny has more clutchpacks.
All the n/a hardware (valve body, mechanical line pressure cable, and solenoids) bolt right into the TT tranny.
You'll need to swap the wiring harness for the valve body though.
Wiring harness comes out easy, just swap the n/a for the TT one.
The TT tranny has a simple plug where the cable for line pressure goes into the n/a tranny. Simply pull out the plug and swap the cable into the TT tranny.
You also need to swap the gear selectors.
The accumulator on the far right bottom by itself away from the other cluster of 3 accumulators needs to be swapped with the n/a one and springs. When swapping in the n/a valve body you dont need the cap that comes with the TT one.
I plan on however, swapping the valve body from a non-turbo A340 into a TT A340 so I can have the extra clutch packs AND the mechanical line pressure control, so I don't have to go AEM.
More to come!
The A340E we will be discussing came mated to both the 2JZ-GTE (TT Supra and Aristo) and 2JZ-GE(SC300 and Non-Turbo Supra). It also came in the 4runner, Tacoma, and some Jeeps and Volvos. The A340 is different than the A341 which came in SC400s and LS400s, with the short explanation of the differences is that the A341 has a slightly longer 1st gear.
The bellhousings of the TT auto and N/A autos will both bolt up to the 2jz, however on a visual inspection the TT bellhousing is slightly larger to clear the larger TT torque converter.
While I am not sure how similar the A340E from the SC300 is to the A341E in the SC400 I would imagine the link below which is about swapping input shafts. Theoretically though you should be able to swap the input shafts on the two trannies which would allow you to retain your SC300 torque converter, flexplate, and flexplate bolts.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archi.../t-336619.html
The tailshafts are also different with the n/a tranny having a hole for the driveshaft to slip into and the TT auto having a bolt on flange. Swapping tailshafts is much harder though as you'd need to literally disassemble the entire transmission to swap the tailshafts.
Here is a thread which should give you a general idea of what you'd need to do to swap tailshafts.
http://www.supras.nl/index.php?optio...d=35&Itemid=52
Links
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost..._DIAGNOSIS.PDF
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT08.pdf
DIFFERENCES
TT Auto
- HP Limit -425-450 w/ a good cooler.
- Valve body has 4 solenoids, the 4th solenoid controls line pressure electronically. This allows smoother shift modulation.
- Has a larger torque converter that is more efficient.
- TT torque converter requires use of a TT flexplate and TT flexplate bolts.
- Driveshaft bolts onto the transmission to a 3 bolt flange.
- Has a different input shaft than the n/a tranny.
- Has more clutch packs than the n/a auto.
- Valve body solenoids activate linearly allowing more precise transmission control.
N/A Auto
- HP Limit : ~325-350 w/ a good cooler
- Transmission line pressure is controlled by a cable and only has 3 solenoids in the valve body.
- Has a slip type tailshaft housing for the driveshaft. Driveshaft slips into the transmission itself.
- Valve body solenoids have an on and off activation.
The biggest problem with the n/a auto's in our cars is the fact that it has an extremely low HP limit.
You can shim the accumulators in the N/A auto which allows for quicker shifts, reducing the amount of time the clutch packs slip and therefore creates less heat allowing for more hp. But the problem with n/a A340's compared to the TT auto is there is a limit to shimming in the fact that it simply doesn't have enough clutch packs to hold much power.
So far, people with n/a auto's don't have many options when it comes to stronger tranny's. BL and many other companies offer rebuilds that allow for a higher hp limit but these services generally cost around 2 grand and can't hold much more than the stock TT auto, which isnt' very much more considering how much it costs. In these services the most notable change is they swap out the clutch packs with raybestos blue plate clutch packs which are stronger.
When you shim the accumulators however, you should may want to consider shimming the 1-2 shift a little less agressively because the next weakness in the tranny after clutch packs is the 2nd gear sprague and hard 1-2 shifts can break it.
The reason swapping a TT auto is complicated is because of the line pressure issue with the valve bodies. Believe it or not, the cable the n/a auto has is NOT a kickdown cable but a cable to control line pressure. The problem with the TT tranny is line pressure is controlled electronically via a solenoid. The solenoid is linearly controlled and allows for more precise line pressure control. So far, the only way to control the TT tranny is with an AEM, however.
A 1500 dollar solution to simple transmission control.
Latent Solutions makes the 'suprastick' tranny controller but it will only work with the n/a valve body, ie: valve bodies with mechanical line pressure.Pictures
The TT tranny is the bottom tranny and the n/a tranny is the top tranny. Here you can see the differences in the tailshafts and that the two trannies are almost identical internally.
Closeup of an n/a tranny.
Closeup of a TT tranny.
The TT valve body is on the bottom and the N/A valve body is on top. You can tell the TT valve body is much larger and doesnt have the two tubes going into the back part of the tranny. One of these tubes sends fluid to the B3 accumulator while the other one sends fluid to lubricate the tailshaft.
This is a picture of an n/a tranny's clutchpacks.
Here you can see that the TT tranny has more clutchpacks.
All the n/a hardware (valve body, mechanical line pressure cable, and solenoids) bolt right into the TT tranny.
You'll need to swap the wiring harness for the valve body though.
Wiring harness comes out easy, just swap the n/a for the TT one.
The TT tranny has a simple plug where the cable for line pressure goes into the n/a tranny. Simply pull out the plug and swap the cable into the TT tranny.
You also need to swap the gear selectors.
The accumulator on the far right bottom by itself away from the other cluster of 3 accumulators needs to be swapped with the n/a one and springs. When swapping in the n/a valve body you dont need the cap that comes with the TT one.
I plan on however, swapping the valve body from a non-turbo A340 into a TT A340 so I can have the extra clutch packs AND the mechanical line pressure control, so I don't have to go AEM.
More to come!
07-03-10, 09:31 AM
#10
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Several people have finished this swap including Greg listed in the detailed link/ thread below.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...68#post7000968
Kruso
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...68#post7000968
Kruso
07-04-10, 09:50 AM
#12
and then used the supra tt section with the gs300 section,Don't remember which one but The gs section is the one with the kick down cable.
I also went along and shim the accumulator i must say It was a night and day difference.
A member here might still have my old gs (fstlane)
07-04-10, 02:19 PM
#14
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The GS300 valve body mounts into the Aristo trans to allow the control of the shift points and the pictures and above post came from ClubNA-T not Supraforums. For anyone that is thinking of doing this it would be in their interest to research first instead of just putting the car under the knife or depending on just one site for all their information.
Kruso
Kruso
Last edited by Kruso; 07-04-10 at 02:25 PM.
07-06-10, 10:19 AM
#15
Driver School Candidate
transmission swap
i had a question conerning the same thing beause i have a 92 sc300 with a 1jzgte swap and my transmission(a340e) is going out. i came across a deal on a used auto tranny from a friend with a gs who went 5spd. he sold me a tranny(30-40le) and a set of used turbos for a good price. is this tranny and even swap or what work is necessary other than the tail ??