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2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod

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Old 09-06-14, 11:46 AM
  #2026  
Ali SC3
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Originally Posted by 99SC42 View Post
Ali- looks great man.

Do you know that the iat temp doesn't move in that location, not the best placement.

You're car is really looking great..im going to come to Colorado so we can swap that Turbo for a BW

I am building an na-t on the low, Oh and call me so I can get your new number.
Thanks man, it took a lot more work than expected to tuck all the wires with the motor in the car but the result is great.

I will move the intake temp sensor just been lazy. you think the IC pipe right before the throttle body is good enough? I need to find the bung for the GM Iat online get one welded on.
come on down anytime man, I def want to go BW just getting there in stages you know me I move pretty slow.
Another na-t, I like the sound of that. I will give you a call not sure if I have your latest or not but will pm you number if not.

Originally Posted by HiPSI View Post
That's awesome! So the idle and driveability is exactly the same as the oem intake? Did you notice any torque loss? What are the downsides?

I know the FFIM makes accessing anything under the intake a pain as well as oil filter changes but the gain in room for the turbo, and simplification of intercooler piping / replacing spark plugs easily is nice. Plus your not roasting the upper intercooler piping with hot IAT temps.

Do you have any pictures of how you mounted the sc400 IAC valve? Is it just open atmosphere? Any weird turbulence noises, whistling?
yeah I have really enjoyed this time around of the FFIM. The idle is exactly the same as stock with the sc400 IACV right on the intake (its very similar to 7mgte, 1jzgte, 2jzgte, etc..) it actually sounds mean as I have a filter right on there I did not run it to the intake since its a map sensor ecu I am using and you can hear it sucking in air when you start it and when you shut it down. a sight whistle at times... yeah I could describe it as that but my tial bov actually whistles like 4 times as loud. just the sound of performance to me =)
idle is rock solid even at 650rpm's without the idle up thing connected you can be wrenching around on the wheel and it doesn't bog down much.

I didn't really notice the torque loss on mine down low as much this time, I did make my ffim a little shorter this time for the throttle body to be placed upside down and not hit the power steering union bolt, and I think also that means it pressurizes a little faster. also I eliminated like 2 feet of intercooler piping, even with using a same side inter cooler previously, its just much much shorter and more efficient. There is that loss of torque a little out of boost, but once you drive it a few times you pick up on the new powerband and it feels just as fun down low but much more fun up top. also it seems to spool better with the bigger throttle body and plenum, not to mention much improved throttle response. you let alot more air in from just tapping the throttle with an 82mm throttle body.

like for the highway that extra torque down low doesn't do a whole lot when you can just shift into your powerband up top. off the line it can make a difference but a good 2 step and some sticky tires and lsd will take care of that right away. its just a different style but I can tell you both ways get you to where you need to be and its a ton of work involved in doing the ffim right.

Alot of people do the oil filter relocation kit to somewhere by the trans for easy access. I thought about this, but then I noticed if I put everything in the right places underneath, I could still reach my arm from by where my power steering tank is mounted down and can still grab the filter, so I am okay with that as I change my own oil and don't overtighten them. If I get frustrated in the future I will just do the relocation plus an oil cooler kit. think of it as post FFIM mods.

edit* here are a few pictures.



on my spare motor for mockup



Originally Posted by myLEXsc400 View Post
I know guys, I'm sure you are just as frustrated hearing about this as I am with the fact the car runs bad. Problem is that i actually know nothing about cars, and probably should have never attempted this I decided to pay someone to do it, and i learned the hard way (3 times, 3 shops)

The wastegate is a 7lb spring i believe. The manual boost controller had it pegged at 10psi. It never went past 10psi up until recently. The spark plugs are laser cut irridiums. just replaced. All coiled were checked. Yes, staying out of boost, the car runs great.
I will attempt to start a new thread if i don't decide to get rid of this headache completely (sell it, or set it on fire)lol
Its all good hopefully we can get it sorted there are just a lot of stuff going around in this thread and its hard to keep track of what was done. I can see that vac line that goes to the map sensor and the FPR, it should not be connected to that blue vsv anymore, it should be bypassed. leave the blue vsv plugged in, but just run a line straight from the tee to the fpr. I would only put this back the way it was for emissions its pretty useless but will mess with the map sensor and fuel pressure in a way you do not want it to. please do that right away. also try running it without the boost controller and see how it does. also you can turn up the boost some more and see if that cures up the rich issue. all this assuming your timing is correct otherwise you may not want to up the boost. sometimes people can have issues with the vvti coils themselves, but I haven't looked into it that much to know why.

Originally Posted by eblick99 View Post
ok i got it all sorted out...except two things...is the B+ 12v the black wire and the signal wire the blue one? or the other way around? im not sure which is which off the coil
nice valvecovers. If you have questions on the ffim post them up its pretty fresh in my head. try not to forget all the intake grounds if you are trying to tuck. if you skip the wire tuck its much easier. the coil plug, I can't remember which way it goes try and find a pic online or I can take one when I get a chance.

Originally Posted by eblick99 View Post
i think my car has two O2 sensors up top and a third down low. ide prefer they are all gone since the aristo ecu only uses one heated O2 sensor. AliSC3 recommended this one to me so i have this 4 wire to use. its got two black heater wires, one blue signal wire, and a white ground wire. heres a pic of what i have.

Im still not getting it though...sorry guys thanks for trying to help but which ones go to which pins for the obd1 aristo ecu? unfortunately its not as easy as using the connector as the directions in the box show
I had it somewhere, ill try and link it when I find it. the signal wire you just reuse the old single wire you had. 1 of the heater wires goes to a heater pin. I forget where the others go.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-06-14 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 09-06-14, 02:35 PM
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thanks, thatd be great if you can find that info around. im not worried about wire tuck; im routing things low where i can but im more concerned with getting all the vacuum stuff right and the ecu wiring being correct. thats really nice you got the iacv on there...i didnt put that on mine, ill crack the q45 tb to idle around 800-900 rpm to bypass that. maybe toyota will have my gasket so i can install that tonight snd post a pic. i already painted it black. i think for the O2 i get it...one black wire to 71, the other black wire to 12v pin, the white wire to a ground pin and the blue wire to 48?
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Old 09-07-14, 04:23 PM
  #2028  
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You only use a 3 wire sensor on aristo, mk4 usdm uses 4 wires like the vvti gte.

Ill help you out tomorrow with the wiring if you want.

Or call me when you are ready to do it!
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Old 09-07-14, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 99SC42 View Post
You only use a 3 wire sensor on aristo, mk4 usdm uses 4 wires like the vvti gte.

Ill help you out tomorrow with the wiring if you want.

Or call me when you are ready to do it!


cool thanks! I found the three pins i need so im good there; i just need to either grab a 3 wire sensor or find out if i can splice the two black heater wires together into one ecu pin, converting the 4 wire into a 3 wire (but maybe it doesnt work that way). if i can get a three wire denso for under $40 ill just do that.

i got my ffim throttle cable bracket welded today and made an egr block off plate so the ffim can go on finally.
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Old 09-08-14, 11:05 AM
  #2030  
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the 4 wire and a 3 wire are the same thing, the extra wire I want to say just gets grounded somewhere. on the 3 wire its done through the housing or something.

I have connected up the 4 wire to both the aristo and 6 speed supra ecu it works perfect, its harder to find a 3 wire and the 4 wire is really the same thing has a heater and puts out the signal to ecu.

Originally Posted by eblick99 View Post
i think for the O2 i get it...one black wire to 71, the other black wire to 12v pin, the white wire to a ground pin and the blue wire to 48?
Yes this sounds correct, I found this I had posted previously.
signal wire goes to original signal wire.
For the heater, one wire gets +12v switched black/red wire in engine bay or at ecu, the other wire goes to the ecu for the heater pin B71, so the ecu can decide when to turn on and off the heater (by grounding it letting the 12v flow).
4th wire is just a regular chassis ground If I remember right.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-08-14 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 09-09-14, 09:47 PM
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well i built the Q45 TB with toyota tps, the best could get by the third try was .659, it wants to creep as i tighten the screws, even making tiny tightening adjustments between bolts. if .659 isn't good enough ill try again though.
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Old 09-09-14, 10:40 PM
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and a few questions about random connectors that got removed in the process of doing the wiring and FFIM.... heres a bunch of pics if you know what any of these ??? are and what im supposed to do now that the other half is gone...sorry if the pics are kinda big...













i have new and correct breather hoses for the valve covers btw.
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Old 09-10-14, 07:56 AM
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.659 is close enough!

On the first picture, you've got it right, maf and cruise, the bottom two connectors are to the stock ignition coil.

The 2nd picture, that plug is for the factory IACV valve. That's an important connector if you want to re-install the IACV idle control valve, like a supra or sc400 one on the FFIM.

The third one is a VSV, I believe for the evap canister and emissions.

The 4th one is correct with the TPS, the bottom one is another VSV emissions.

The VSV's aren't really necessary especially if you've deleted it all. However I had to re-add back my evap canister and VSV to pull the fuel vapors out of my gas tank. Without the canister in place, and without the VSV which will pull vacuum on the tank during cruise conditions it will cause pressure to build and the vapor will smell in the cabin.

Last edited by HiPSI; 09-10-14 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 09-10-14, 08:15 AM
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woah on the bottom of the first picture, you have the stock ignition coil connector, and another white 2 pin connector.

This is the noise filter for the ignition, it needs to remain plugged in or things will not work right.
the cruise and the stock coil wire can be left hanging or tucked. the stock maf wires I used to wire up the map and IAt, but if you ran new wires you can leave this hanging also.

basically, plug that noise filter back in. it is needed. its separate from the stock coil.
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Old 09-10-14, 08:28 AM
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ok so ill hook up the stuff in pic no.4 to the new throttle body and the maf parts in pic no.1 to map and intake temp sensor. pic no.3 went to something on oem intake/tb so i just wrap it up and hide it? same the rest im not using? im not as cool as ali so i dont have iacv on my ffim so ill just leave that unhooked too and wrap/tuck it for another day.

i want to make sure the ffim doesnt have to come off once i put it on, and all wiring is done first and leftovers are dealt with. none of those need to be grounded or anything? my vacc port on my ffim is on the side, should i move it to the rear?
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Old 09-10-14, 08:38 AM
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not sure where this noise filter is supposed to be connected. i might have pulled that part out thinking it was junk and in the way. ill see if i can find it when i get home from work, thanks for the heads up!
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Old 09-10-14, 09:36 AM
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yes number 4 the tps you can move it to new location by unwrapping harness a bit if needed, it should be long enough already to reach the ffim spot.
same for the idle air control valve (pic 2) on the passenger side sitting on your turbo right now, if you unwrap the harness you can peel it back to the drivers side for a FFIM.
If you did not install an IACV, I would just leave it there hanging and tie it away from turbo, or unwrap harness and peel it back to the cam cover area where it can be hidden out of the way.

pic number 1 the maf sensor plug you use to wire up map and IAT.

pic number 3 is the connector for the egr temp sensor probe. does not matter if its plugged in or not on a jdm ecu, it does not look for it or care about egr, it never came with it in japan.

none of those need to be grounded to anything.
when you remove the stock upper intake, there are a few ground points you will see things grounded to the lower runner. you have to move these when installing the FFIM so it will sit flush, and what I did is used the same bolt hole and simply put the ground on the back side of the lower runner. that way you can bolt on the FFIM fine still and still have ground in same sort of spot. you can also ground it to anywhere on the intake.
its like a collection of brown stiff wires with a loop connector on the end to put a bolt through I think I cannot remember if there is a second or not, you cant miss them when you are installing the FFIM you have to move it or the FFIM wont sit flush.

does not matter where vac port comes off of the FFIM. as long as it doesn't leak and is connected to the intake. rest is aesthetics.

the noise filter should have never been removed. I wonder if thats lexsc400's problem?
its picture 2 the lowest connector that is white and 2 pin. it has what looks like a small rectangular box attached to it same color as the plug, maybe an inch or 2 long. its pretty small.
Its always next to the ignitor or coil. on our cars its next to the coil. on a supra TT or vvti 2jzgte its clipped to the ignitor but it does not matter where it is as long as there is one on the car.

looks like this
Name:  Parts037-15.jpg
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You can also remove the maroon canister under the lower intake that has those few vac lines running to it you can see in pic 3 by the egr temp sensor connector.
you would only use that on the stock intake so if you are getting rid of EGR and the stock intake you can just pull those vac lines off or remove the whole canister, its held on with 2 studs/nuts under the lower runner. 10mm I think.

Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-10-14 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 09-10-14, 10:03 AM
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thank you again sir. i will plug in the little white thingy when i get home and find it. my ffim has the upper runners welded to it so the grounds will be same and still clear. it sits a little high that way but i wanted long runners and ive still got room for a strut tower bar. ill pull that egr junk out as well, i didnt know about that stuff so thanks again for pointing those out.

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Old 09-10-14, 12:12 PM
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Ali I definitely don't have that noise filter plugged in! I assumed that was only for the stock ignition coil and wasn't needed!

The car runs fine though, no problems with WOT and idle etc etc ??
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Old 09-10-14, 06:40 PM
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that just means your electrical system is in good shape and the ecu can still read the cam and crank sensors without filtering. It doesn't need to be plugged in but sometimes it wont run properly at all revs if it isn't.

you want that plugged in for the long run, its on every toyota with an electronic ignition system more or less. I should have probably mentioned when removing the stock coil to leave that plugged in and it simply pops off the bracket if you give it a good pull.

with it unplugged if any extra noise gets introduced into the system by lots of random things like a faulty sensor or something then the ecu may not be able to read the crank signal accurately it will pick up false positives and loose sync without the filter to filter out the noise at those frequencies. this can cause lots of issues at the least misfires.

And there is normally quite a bit of noise anyways on a normal running engine due to the ignition coils which is why they place the filter on that circuit, since everything shares a ground it can mess with other more sensitive signals, hence the filter is needed. The reason why it works so well without it is just that they make the coils so well now and the ecu's so tolerant there is a good amount of fudge factor. still if you have issues of the ignition or misfire variety I would plug it back in asap.
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