thanks tin man, was i correct on the diagram anything red yank out and only keep the green?

 

Yes, red goes, green stays. You'll need EGR blockoff plates too. They sell them online, or you can use thermal expansion plugs. The ones that pop out of the engine block if the water in it freezes, but I'm uncertain of the sizes. 35/64 of an inch and a deep 20mm I think? You'll also need a 10K ohm 1/2 watt resister which you wire into the EGR sensor to fool the car into thinking that it's still on and working.

 

Ace Hardware also sells the proper size vacuum caps for a few cents a piece, as long as you don't mind non-black colors. I think orange is their color code for vacuum size.

 

Don't delete ALL the red! If you do the butterfly in the intake manifold won't open. You want to keep those lines intact. Those lines are the ones that lead under the manifold to the vacuum tank under it to the right of the mount (next to the starter).

 

1997soarer, if i did would that cause the car not to idle? it started then died and now will only run if i start it with half throttle and hold it if not it will stall out. what lines are they in the picture?

thanks again

 

so this is where I'm at and what i have done so far hope the pictures came out ok enough to understand what i have capped off

the last pic is that valve not sure what it is under the y pipe before manifold i just capped off the hose on that as well because i didn't want to bother removing it.

 

anyone?

 

Reinstall the vacuum tank and hook this valve and it's VSV back up. I had to prove it to myself on a race course that this valve effects performance. At 4,000 rpm it kicks in and it is definitely necessary to get full performance. I think Ali posted a really good description of what this valve does and how it works, it may be in my build thread but don't have time to look right now. I never can remember the name of it, its like ACIS valve but I just remember it is 4 letters and starts with A. It's purpose is to change the intake runner length at high/low rpm.

 

RXrodger so i hooked some hoses back up but still wouldn't idle, found the real culprit. I guess there is a reason why they say to not use the same gasket again, i took some cleaner spray and found it was taking in air got that fixed but as you can see in video I'm still getting white smoke and not sure why? my first thought was HG but then i read on here that it could be the ECU called up my dad ( who game me the car) and he said he bought one of eBay a year ago, could it still be the issue? also before i order one should i just open it up and see if capacitors are bad? then i know for sure?

 

No video made it in the post. Only way I know for sure to tell on the ECU is send it to Tanin Auto Eletronix to get the capacitor work done. It's less than $100 to have that done. Get that and the intake gasket fixed and see what it does then.

Edit: Looks like it went up a bit, about $150 now.

 

Where is the sensor located that I need to plug the resistor into and what do I do with the blue/green plug on the harness that the Vacuum Switching Valve plugs into after I unplug it? I left the canister plugged in that controls the butterfly in the upper intake manifold.
Thank You in advance

 

So to be clear, the butterfly valve needs to stay? Which canister was it hooked up to again? Can anyone confirm if removing the butterfly valve will negatively affect the idle?

 

Yes the butterfly valve needs to stay. The canister is the one shown in the vacuum diagram that connects to the VSV for this valve. You do need to leave this canister. It gives some vacuum capacitance so that the reaction of the valve happens quickly. Removing the ACIS would not affect idle unless you left the vacuum hoses disconnected, but it certainly will affect performance.