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SC400 Problem (Engine/Mechanical) - Please help

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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 09:41 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by labtec
thanks for the insight -- i'm waiting on my tune up parts to come in...hope to get her up and running by next weekend
No problem.

You are replacing it all correct? Wires, plugs, caps and rotors?

That's the first time I've ever seen a rotor do that but another guy in the shop said he's seen a few that were cracked. Also, I do know that the wires are know to leak voltage. I actually got shocked by the same car mentioned above while checking for this. Test light on negative batt terminal and run the probe along the wires (without actually touching them) to see if voltage jumps to the probe.

They are also known for coils going bad but I don't think it's as common as bad wires.

KC
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 10:07 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by KC95SC400
No problem.

You are replacing it all correct? Wires, plugs, caps and rotors?

KC
Yep -- NKG Plugs, OEM wires and caps and rotors from advanceauto
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Yup i think it needs a tune-up too sounds like your injectors are clogged u can use injector cleaner it will help clean them up nicely
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Question: In this tutorial, it says this I need to flush out the coolant before replacing the distributor caps/rotor -- is that necessary.

What does coolant have to do with the ignition system?

The tutorial is for an LS400.
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 09:54 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by labtec
Question: In this tutorial, it says this I need to flush out the coolant before replacing the distributor caps/rotor -- is that necessary.

What does coolant have to do with the ignition system?

The tutorial is for an LS400.
You don't need to flush or drain the cooling system but your life will be allot easier if you get the upper radiator hose out of the way. So, it's about worth draining the coolant so the hose can be taken off.

KC
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by KC95SC400
You don't need to flush or drain the cooling system but your life will be allot easier if you get the upper radiator hose out of the way. So, it's about worth draining the coolant so the hose can be taken off.

KC

ic...makes sense. might as well replace the coolant i guess. thanks
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #22  
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Alright if you doing a tune up blah blah blah you need to do a couple other things. Before you remove the old parts you need to do a through induction service. Run some seafoam in threw the vacuum line coming from the brake booster so it gets in the upper intake and lower intake. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Start it up and let the carbon(smoke) come out. Use the whole can to clean it out. Use fuel injector cleaner and pop a bottle of that stuff in the gas tank. Use some throttle/carb cleaner and clean around the throttle body plate to get all of gunk off. Use a rag to get the stuck on grime and spray it again if need be. If you have never done the fuel filter within the past 50,000 miles you might as well pop that on the list. Make sure if your doing that to use a SNAP ON line wrench and nothing else. Reason for saying that is those lines lock up halfway threw loosening them and you end up breaking the line off. Other line wrenches metal bends and ends up striping the metal off the line screw. Do you have any check engine lights on other then the issue you mentioned? Good luck with the tune up....
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SHOLEXMAN
...Run some seafoam in threw the vacuum line coming from the brake booster so it gets in the upper intake and lower intake. Let it sit for 10 minutes. Start it up and let the carbon(smoke) come out. Use the whole can to clean it out. Use fuel injector cleaner and pop a bottle of that stuff in the gas tank. Use some throttle/carb cleaner and clean around the throttle body plate to get all of gunk off. Use a rag to get the stuck on grime and spray it again if need be. If you have never done the fuel filter within the past 50,000 miles you might as well pop that on the list. Make sure if your doing that to use a SNAP ON line wrench and nothing else. Reason for saying that is those lines lock up halfway threw loosening them and you end up breaking the line off. Other line wrenches metal bends and ends up striping the metal off the line screw. Do you have any check engine lights on other then the issue you mentioned? Good luck with the tune up....
Hmm..never heard of seafoam. I did some reading on it in the many threads and it appears people are putting 1/3 in the brake booster, 1/3 in the gas tank and 1/3 in the engine block -- is that right? Or should I put 100% of it in the brake booster??

I do plan on changed the fuel pump.

I have no check engine lights -- sometimes the radiator light comes on, but I think this is just the senor since the temp. is steady.
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #24  
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I went all out with the can. You can do whatever you want with it just don't dump all of it in the engine at the same time cause you will hydro lock the motor lol. Don't put it in the boost btw just the vacuum line going to the motor. Check your coolant level it might be low.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 05:56 AM
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So I'm getting ready to do my tune up this weekend -- I've read the guides on LexLS and they are fairly detailed. The only thing that I'm a bit worried about is removing the engine belt --- it makes it look real easy. Do you guys have any tips? Is it fairly easy to put back on??
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:22 AM
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Sounds like the car is running on 4 cylinders... check your coils and coil wires...
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by labtec
So I'm getting ready to do my tune up this weekend -- I've read the guides on LexLS and they are fairly detailed. The only thing that I'm a bit worried about is removing the engine belt --- it makes it look real easy. Do you guys have any tips? Is it fairly easy to put back on??
The drive belt is easy to remove and put back on. Just use a 14mm socket with a wrench and push down the bolt that holds the tensioner to the left, which is the same direction as to tighten it counterclockwise, and slide it out or in. This bolt is reversed thread. Make sure to align the belt as perfect as possible.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by stevechumo
The drive belt is easy to remove and put back on. Just use a 14mm socket with a wrench and push down the bolt that holds the tensioner to the left, which is the same direction as to tighten it counterclockwise, and slide it out or in. This bolt is reversed thread. Make sure to align the belt as perfect as possible.
cool..thanks
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RedPhoenix
Sounds like the car is running on 4 cylinders... check your coils and coil wires...
where are these located...can i easily check them while doing the tune up?
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:01 PM
  #30  
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^^^ The coils are located near top of the motor near the thermostat housing and the other is by the a/c compressor. The coils wires and under the spark plug wire covers. Here is a pic to help you out.
Don't look at the Nissan emblem this was swapped into another car. The coil in on the left side right next to the black tube.
http://www.grandprixgroup.com/new/ma...g_M_P64/10.jpg
The other coil is a pain to get a pic of ,but i hope you can find it.
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