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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 06:52 PM
  #136  
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Sigh, the wait is killing me...............
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Twan0690
Sigh, the wait is killing me...............

4 real..
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #138  
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Still got tha Vertex lip FS?
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #139  
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I stopped by the shop to check up on my baby girl and for a friendly chat and here are some pictures.

Yikes, good bye clear coat



So many dings to be filled in





No more emblem holes!



No more antenna hole!



I think the most troublesome part is the hood. So many deep rock chips to be filled in.

Everything is on schedule so stay tuned.

Originally Posted by TankMR
Still got tha Vertex lip FS?

Yea I do, PM me
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:15 PM
  #140  
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Any problems with the high beam fitment on the new bumper? No tabs on the bumper for the clips that hold the bottom part of the hi-beams...
Great update too!!!
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:36 PM
  #141  
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wow.. that one spot is sick!

Also, can you PM me the cost of your bodywork/paint?

One more, are you gonna cut your rear bumper support?
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Old Aug 11, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #142  
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nice update jerry...slowly but surely coming along
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:36 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by camberSC
Any problems with the high beam fitment on the new bumper? No tabs on the bumper for the clips that hold the bottom part of the hi-beams...
Great update too!!!
We haven't tried on the parts yet but it will happen soon. So what is up with the lack of tabs? The authentic AutoCouture lacks the tab too I assume?

Before I dropped off my car at the shop and right after Shine test fitted Rvaquino's car, I drove all the way back to Shine to consult about the kit's fitment and about my rolled fenders and wheel fitment. Ken and the in-house body guy Makito said that everything fitted fine on Rvaquino's car after some sanding here and there. The only issue are the pointy tips on above the headlights and they have corrected it in the later front bumpers.

Originally Posted by rvaquino
wow.. that one spot is sick!

Also, can you PM me the cost of your bodywork/paint?

One more, are you gonna cut your rear bumper support?
PM Sent.

Are the rear bumper support not going to fit? I thought only the front foam absorber needed to be trimmed.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:42 AM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by xknowonex
Personally, I don't want to throw out a number since all cars are different and even different colors affect the price. There are many variables such as color, amount of dings and/or damage, and if you are install a kit or not. If its an aftermarket kit, its a little more due to the extra prep-work/fitment issues .

But I can tell you that the prices are very reasonable since I did shop around for a shop for almost a year and I settled with this one. Most importantly, the work has been verified by another member to be good.

Sure, I can probably find someone to paint the car for $1500 but 99% its going to look like ***. Its funny since I there were couple guys who spotted my damage in shopping mall parking lots and streets and solicited me. Some offers twere as as low as $1000 for repaint and quarter panel repair at their shop somewhere

Another even offered to fix the dent pdr style and "re-clearcoat" the car over its original paint

Here is the shop's address

Utu Autobody Repair
3500 Westminster Ave Ste F
Santa Ana, CA 92703

If you plan to stop by, tell him that Jerry from the Clublexus forum with a red SC inside his shop referred you. The owner is a middle aged Vietnamese man so if his son isn't there, bring along a Vietnamese friend. It helps if you can speak fluent Viet
I paid $1900 for a shop in El Monte and the quality is so bad, the paint got cracked and there're some missing spots as well. My friend just recently paid $1700 to paint his SC and from what he said, it looks really good. From what I know, the high quality materials that are used to paint a whole car would cost a total of about $300. The rest of cost is just labor because a lot of sanding and preparation are required. And about 80% of the work is just surface preparation.

And about re-clearcoat, that's possible to turn the car back to like new. The thing is only the clear coat is damaged and the base coat must be undamaged. Basically, the clear coat will be sanded smooth and the sanding must not touch the base coat underneath. If it is, then a touch-up is needed, then the clear coat is sprayed on with several coats. 3 coats are the minumum. Then sanding with 1500 grit sand paper and finer grit as you go, and buffing/polishing will bring back the shining of the paint. The base coat is actually very dull. Only the clear coat shines. Many shops actually do this and they tell you that they repaint the whole car. I got so p**sed off at my paint, so I went ahead and learned about car painting.

I can't wait to see your car in person at the next meet. Nice red hot!
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:58 AM
  #145  
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The rear support doesnt fit with the bumper on, its the corners of the support that are the problem causes, the front i just took the foam off. :P
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 01:22 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by stevechumo
I paid $1900 for a shop in El Monte and the quality is so bad, the paint got cracked and there're some missing spots as well. My friend just recently paid $1700 to paint his SC and from what he said, it looks really good. From what I know, the high quality materials that are used to paint a whole car would cost a total of about $300. The rest of cost is just labor because a lot of sanding and preparation are required. And about 80% of the work is just surface preparation.

And about re-clearcoat, that's possible to turn the car back to like new. The thing is only the clear coat is damaged and the base coat must be undamaged. Basically, the clear coat will be sanded smooth and the sanding must not touch the base coat underneath. If it is, then a touch-up is needed, then the clear coat is sprayed on with several coats. 3 coats are the minumum. Then sanding with 1500 grit sand paper and finer grit as you go, and buffing/polishing will bring back the shining of the paint. The base coat is actually very dull. Only the clear coat shines. Many shops actually do this and they tell you that they repaint the whole car. I got so p**sed off at my paint, so I went ahead and learned about car painting.

I can't wait to see your car in person at the next meet. Nice red hot!
Hey Steve,

Thanks for chiming in on my thread.

I did some research on body work and learned quite a bit.

- Prepping a car for a paint job makes up a huge majority of the cost and hugely determines how the car will turn out. You can go to extreme lengths like how some of the muscle car guys or some of the guys on the Supraforums and completely strip/disasssemble the car down to its bare shell but thats not the financially sensible or even necessary for most of us.

- Same goes for material. Obviously, you don't want junk materials but you have to be reasonable as well. This isn't a Maybach or a rolling canvas like some lowriders or hot-rods.

Also, Steve, I might be in need of your services once the car is done
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 10:00 AM
  #147  
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nice pics. The guy wearing the "steamer" shirt is my buddy. LOL
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 10:04 AM
  #148  
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still waiting for pics lol
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #149  
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Jerry, I would've taken off the wheels before taking it to the shop. Make sure they mask them well before shooting the paint.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:19 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by chrispy
Jerry, I would've taken off the wheels before taking it to the shop. Make sure they mask them well before shooting the paint.
I don't have any other wheels that would fit and I am sure any competent body man would mask the wheels and everything else when they spray.

Besides, I have months of unwashed brake-dust, dirt, and grime on there so I doubt any over-spray will stick to it LOL
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