I think I need a new idle air control valve and want to know where it is exactly. Is it the red circle or the green square? If it is the red circle, how do it take just the black connector off? I saw the thread on how to clean it and then was re directed to the soarer page, but that guy only showed the whole assembly off, not the part that can be clean or replaced easily.

 

Red circle. Remove two nuts. Disconnect the two coolant lines on the sides. Disconnect the rest of the hoses, I can't remember all of them at the top of my head. You can reuse the gasket up to two times, that's for me. Putting the new one back in just make sure to tighten it to torque spec.

 

red circle.

 

^yup, red circle. I reccomend removing the plug wire harness to make it a little easier

 

I thought I could just remove the black part of the iacv without removing all of the pipes and stuff

 

I just took some pictures under my hood. I dont see where the three screws are on the iacv.

 

That is pretty weird, I do not see the phillips screws either. Maybe someone with an 1uz can chime in here.

 

maybe if you unplug it and try to remove the black plastic over the iacv? i don't know but that looks like it may work. lol

 

what screws are you guys talkin about? you undo the 2 nuts on the side there, they look like 12mm. pop the hoses off and theres your valve.

 

There are some screws I can recall, but you need the whole thing off. The black park is the just the magnetic coil for the valve in the middle.

 

If you look at the pics of the 1uz iacv here: http://www.planetsoarer.com/IAC/iac.htm, it seems slightly different than the pics provided by guod. You can clearly see the phillips screws. Maybe becaues it is a soarer iacv? I don't have a sc400 so I assumed they were all the same lol.

 

well I found a guy parting out a 95 sc400 and got the iacv for $30. Hopefully it will work for a few thousand miles as $30 you cant go wrong. As far as the removal, It is like shajbot said, we removed the 2 bolts on the side and then all of the tubes and it came off. The black part stayed connected the whole time.

 

i have the same IACV on my 95 sc400 as you. No screws. I dont know if its because I dont have TRAC. Hopefully someone knows how to disassemble ours, as it would be an expensive experiment (i think $700 or something for a new one). I also thought about buying a used one with the 3 screw design and rebuilding that one. But i am skeptical that since its different, it wont work right, besides i rather rebuild mine...

 

I also have the same IACV on my 95 sc400 and it was very hard to take off. First off you don't have to remove the spark plug wire retaining harness that runs across the cylinder banks. You can use a screwdriver and pop off the electrical connector and by pressing down on it. Once you get this off you'll soon realize that the there is a 3 way coolant diverter underneath AND connected to the bottom of the IACV. Not sure why they did this, they obviously didn't want you taking it off. Drain some coolant out first, not much. If you cut the main line going to the bottom of the valve coming straight off the coolant return and take it off, you can then unscrew the 2 screws holding the valve on and pop it off, and remove the 2 flimsy air valves to the top of the intake housing and press back on the spark plug retainer, it comes right off. It took me hours to realize the only thing that gave me all the trouble in removing it was that tube underneath the valve going to the coolant return, and your literally compressing it and expanding it to force the valve off and on, so make sure you get rid of that when you take the valve off.
Testing it is simple, have to go in sequence like 10 times to see the valve move position. Just sprayed in some throttle body cleaner helped clean it up. Check the resistance of the windings ~ 45 ohms. Put back on is just reverse, however make sure you have another hose for the one you cut and attach it to the coolant return line and its sort of tricky but you must have patience alligning it on the screws because the bottom of the return line will chafe up against the bottom of the engine housing, just put some force down onto the IACV to make it fit on the screws.

 

Is it the same on the SC300?