engine seals fail.. well in my case anyway, looks like all the seals at the front of the motor took a dump on me a week after switching to full synthetic, gonna replace cam seals, crank seal, timing belt and water pump at the same time, also ati crank damper and fidanza cam gears going in since there coming off anyways might as well upgrade, crying for boost but crap keeps breaking, maintenance before power, now for the pics (courtesy of the samsung omnia)..

 

Why switching to synthetic on an old engine? Damage has already been done.

 

when i first got my sc my mechanic told me stick with regular oil because of this exact reason, so for three years or so i listened, it only has 90000 miles or so, guess i was just being curious and hard head at the same time oh well live and learn...

 

I hear ya man,thats a low mileage engine .I'd probably do the same thing if mine had low miles like yours

 

wow...that sucks a ton. are you sure this is related to the synthetic switch? When seals go out it's usually either wear and tear or too much crankcase pressure due to a faulty PCV valve. After you change out the seals do that valve as well, an extra $3 and it takes 2 seconds to change

nice BFI though

 

especially since im unemployed now like almost 10% of the U.S., i got a bunch of free time trying to be productive.lol unemployment checks and boost hmmmm, gonna make it work

 

yeah man, its almost not that they broke on me, its the mess i dont wanna clean but the bfi was a 6 pack and a crap load of abs, sounds ridiculous i love it.lol

 

i dont have any pcv valves, when i got the car it was in a wrecking yard and the valve covers were all jacked up, so threw on breathers, no problems for three years, but maybe like all problems it takes time to develop, my main mech is in hawaii so gotta play with it by myself for now. i was planing to put a catch can in when i boost so maybe ill leave it till then, focusing on the seals for now, thanx for the insight though

 

you will have to remove your oem fan and shroud and go with an electric fan.because your oem fan will hit your ati damper.also you should go with a five groove serpentine belt.how i know-i have an ati damper and the shop i had it installed at ran into that problem with it hitting.also my serpentine belt started shredding since i went with the less grooved belt,no problems

 

flex-a-lites already installed, i think you can see it kinda in the pick, or atleast notice that theres no shroud, but thanx for the heads up with the belt, im getting a gates kevlar timing belt, do you think the phr acc belt will be ok with the ati damper??? http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templa...945&SearchYN=N its below the electric water pump???

 

did not see the belt.as long as it has five grooves in it and not six it should work.i have a gates serpentine belt i'm not sure which one it is when i get a chance i'll have to look.it is not as wide as the one a t i recommend.the sixth groove was slipping of causeing it to shred.

 

thanx 4 the info, ill keep that in mind when comes time to purchase the belt.

 

i don't think it's b/c of the synthetic oil b/c when i first bought my car it had 285K w/ conventional oil and was leaking as well. i switched to fully synthetic within the third month and it actually stopped the leaking and i'm still running synthetic at over 308K miles....

 

thats some awesome mileage, but i really dont know if it was the synthetic or not, but it just seems to have happened right after the switch, but i also drove from cali to florida without any leak or problem whatsoever, so i cant really link the leaks to anything else, spilt milk now

 

FINALLY NO LEAKS last pic is just of the bfi