Vibration problem fixed!
Vibration problem fixed!
1997 SC300, 125k, AT
Intermittent but fairly severe vibration mainly in shifter and occasionally in front wheels, usually around 45mph but sometimes anywhere between 40-65mph. Worse on smooth roads.
Replaced rear transmission mount ($75). Old one was definitely shot, and the car was smoother, but vibration still there. Checked price on driveshaft assy (OMG, $800!).
Checked rotor temps (rough check, just hold hand close to rotors and compare, but be careful - they can be very hot). Left front much hotter than right.
Jacked up the front and spun wheels. Right front free, left front dragging brake slightly.
Replaced left front caliper ($44) and hose ($32). No more vibration!
The frustration was the intermittent nature of the problem. It wouldn't always vibrate, and the brake wasn't dragging enough to be obvious, i.e. it would roll easily in neutral or on slight hills.
Hope this helps someone else, and thanks for a great forum!
Harpo
Intermittent but fairly severe vibration mainly in shifter and occasionally in front wheels, usually around 45mph but sometimes anywhere between 40-65mph. Worse on smooth roads.
Replaced rear transmission mount ($75). Old one was definitely shot, and the car was smoother, but vibration still there. Checked price on driveshaft assy (OMG, $800!).
Checked rotor temps (rough check, just hold hand close to rotors and compare, but be careful - they can be very hot). Left front much hotter than right.
Jacked up the front and spun wheels. Right front free, left front dragging brake slightly.
Replaced left front caliper ($44) and hose ($32). No more vibration!
The frustration was the intermittent nature of the problem. It wouldn't always vibrate, and the brake wasn't dragging enough to be obvious, i.e. it would roll easily in neutral or on slight hills.
Hope this helps someone else, and thanks for a great forum!
Harpo
Last edited by Harpo; Apr 12, 2009 at 11:35 PM.
i hope its not the case but i have a feeling it the beginning of a dying/malfunctioning ABS motor assembly.
i had the same problem at first. they it got worse and it would actually start locking up the wheels while driving and make the rotors cherry red. i had a space sc for parts so after replacing brake booster, master cylinder, front calipers, rotors, pads, and lines it was still there.
pulled the relays for abs in the engine bay and the problem has not surfaced in almost 2.5 years.
good luck and hopefully this is the end of your brake problems
i had the same problem at first. they it got worse and it would actually start locking up the wheels while driving and make the rotors cherry red. i had a space sc for parts so after replacing brake booster, master cylinder, front calipers, rotors, pads, and lines it was still there.
pulled the relays for abs in the engine bay and the problem has not surfaced in almost 2.5 years.
good luck and hopefully this is the end of your brake problems
Forgot to mention in my original post: I did try removing the ABS relays; it made no difference, vibration was still there. I expect I will have to do the right one too, eventually. But it's an easy job, less than 30 minutes, and I'm very relieved that I don't need a driveshaft!
would your e-brake light come on for a few seconds then shut off.because thats the problem i'm having and it dont happen all the time,it also happens somentimes on hard excellaration.i only get the vibration on braking.
1. low fluid lol
2. worn brake pads. the pistons in the calipers are extended a lot and majority of the fluid is in the system and not the reservoir.
check your pads. if low on material then replace. if pads are fine then just add some fluid.
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Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 636
Likes: 4
From: SC
I finally got around to replacing my transmission mount today....$59 from the dealer and it seems to have fixed my vibration problem....I've only driven on kinda rough roads at low speeds from my work back to the house since doing it, so I'll know for sure after my road trip tommorow.
I would venture a guess that that brake caliper is actually bad too... the rotor warped only on one side most likely because the caliper is not fully retracting... definitely want to look into that before you screw up another rotor...
ebrake light means low brake fluid level in the reservoir. this can be due to either 2 things:
1. low fluid lol
2. worn brake pads. the pistons in the calipers are extended a lot and majority of the fluid is in the system and not the reservoir.
check your pads. if low on material then replace. if pads are fine then just add some fluid.
1. low fluid lol
2. worn brake pads. the pistons in the calipers are extended a lot and majority of the fluid is in the system and not the reservoir.
check your pads. if low on material then replace. if pads are fine then just add some fluid.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: mi
Vibrations and Transmission Mount
I've read posts that say the drive shaft can cause vibrations and I'm sure they can as mine did after I replaced it and it was 180 out. But that did not fix the vibrating. The trans mount appeared OK but.... it was not.
Look under the mount between the rubber arms and you will see a 1/2 wide stop plate. It should be a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the mount. Any lower and the drive shaft geometry is out of line and can cause a vibration.
It wasnt until I had the new mount sitting next to the old one that I saw the difference in height.
Look under the mount between the rubber arms and you will see a 1/2 wide stop plate. It should be a 1/2 inch from the bottom of the mount. Any lower and the drive shaft geometry is out of line and can cause a vibration.
It wasnt until I had the new mount sitting next to the old one that I saw the difference in height.
