SC been in an accident. have some ?'s (no 56K)
03-26-09, 09:47 PM
#16
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i had to replace my top radiator support and it wasn't too difficult ... i would recommend you go to a junk yard with a saws all and get to hacking, after that take it to a person that knows what how to work a welder and a jack hammer (preferably a good body shop) and they should be able to do it in no time.
if there was no damage to frame's geometry you should be perfectly fine
if there was no damage to frame's geometry you should be perfectly fine
03-26-09, 09:49 PM
#17
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I would've been more than happy to take a 50 dollar ticket over a bent frame, but too late now. 
Be easy guys. Stop the 
You guys are both right. I was looking through Carson Lexus website and I fount out that the part in question is in fact the lower tie bar and it has 5 other components to it that make up the entire radiator support.
You guys are both right. I was looking through Carson Lexus website and I fount out that the part in question is in fact the lower tie bar and it has 5 other components to it that make up the entire radiator support.
03-26-09, 10:07 PM
#18
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Ok, I'm not sayin his car didn't get f'd up. I'm sayin it's really not that bad. 1st check your hood gaps. Even on both sides lengthwise? Good that means your front end is still square (if not yep your screwed & need your car in shop for frame work) 2nd is your hood still flush? if yes then hood latch (upper tie bar) is not affected(pushed up by lock support, bolted to lower tie bar, maybe spot welded) & it is still just lower, still not a big deal. If your hood is sticking up yep, you need a body shop. You still gotta love more & more new cars have plastic bolt on rad supports, hence the not structual comment. Still important just not that big of a deal.
No gap where bumper lines up with fender and gap between headlights and bumper.
The only noticeable gap is on my passenger high beam. There is about a 5mm gap at the left corner.
The damage on my gramps car looks really crazy, but the distance between our cars when this accident happened was no more than about 15-20ft. He couldnt have been going that fast.
This is the thing he ran over in front of my house. Its not really an island, but more of a brick thing that holds plants in it. Its fixed now, but was in little pieces everywhere when it got hit.
03-27-09, 01:33 AM
#20
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Cut gramps some slack, wait & see how you drive at his age! So you need a new rad & condensor, not a big deal. The lower metal piece is your lower tie bar(frame, kinda) it is NOT structual (NOT, don't listen to anyone that says otherwise) all it really does is hold up the rad & condensor. It may need to be pulled but you should be able to straighten it in your driveway if you get alittle crafty. Could be much worse..........
serious? not really. it can be pulled, or replaced. in the insurance business, it would be replaced, due to liability. its not really that hard to change, gotta drill out some spot welds and plug weld the new panel back in place.
but yeah, you can just pull it, I just get annoyed when people say things and sound so sure, and yet are wrong.
03-27-09, 05:44 AM
#21
Lexus Test Driver
Ok, I'm not sayin his car didn't get f'd up. I'm sayin it's really not that bad. 1st check your hood gaps. Even on both sides lengthwise? Good that means your front end is still square (if not yep your screwed & need your car in shop for frame work) 2nd is your hood still flush? if yes then hood latch (upper tie bar) is not affected(pushed up by lock support, bolted to lower tie bar, maybe spot welded) & it is still just lower, still not a big deal. If your hood is sticking up yep, you need a body shop. You still gotta love more & more new cars have plastic bolt on rad supports, hence the not structual comment. Still important just not that big of a deal.
90% of the vehicle in a unibody configuration is considered structural, even the rear and quarter glass is a structural component.
serious? not really. it can be pulled, or replaced. in the insurance business, it would be replaced, due to liability. its not really that hard to change, gotta drill out some spot welds and plug weld the new panel back in place.
but yeah, you can just pull it, I just get annoyed when people say things and sound so sure, and yet are wrong.
serious? not really. it can be pulled, or replaced. in the insurance business, it would be replaced, due to liability. its not really that hard to change, gotta drill out some spot welds and plug weld the new panel back in place.
but yeah, you can just pull it, I just get annoyed when people say things and sound so sure, and yet are wrong.
03-27-09, 01:28 PM
#24
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Its not that big of a deal if it doesnt bother you that you have a damaged frame, like said below, it is a unibody, and anything that connects anything together is structure.
When i used to work at a lexus dealership, we had an sc3 come through the body shop that hit a dog going 20mph, did half the damage that this guy has, and the front end was completely tweeked. Cosmetically it looked fine, no gaps anywhere, everything was even....it had a 5mill rotation if i remember correctly. The frame had to be pulled.
When i used to work at a lexus dealership, we had an sc3 come through the body shop that hit a dog going 20mph, did half the damage that this guy has, and the front end was completely tweeked. Cosmetically it looked fine, no gaps anywhere, everything was even....it had a 5mill rotation if i remember correctly. The frame had to be pulled.
Would you be able to get me:
-Upper/lower tie bar
-AC condenser
-The piece that the headlights and high beams bolt on to (not sure whats its called)
I will be in contact with you once I find out whats going on with insurance and everything. Thanks!
03-27-09, 03:35 PM
#25
Ouch... well it does bother me alot that my frame is damaged and won't be the same even after everything is fixed. At this point, I just hope insurance just decides to total my car, but I doubt it.
Would you be able to get me:
-Upper/lower tie bar
-AC condenser
-The piece that the headlights and high beams bolt on to (not sure whats its called)
I will be in contact with you once I find out whats going on with insurance and everything. Thanks!
Would you be able to get me:
-Upper/lower tie bar
-AC condenser
-The piece that the headlights and high beams bolt on to (not sure whats its called)
I will be in contact with you once I find out whats going on with insurance and everything. Thanks!
dont let it bother you, thats nothing, i have fixed cars 20 times worse, and they come out mint.
03-27-09, 06:36 PM
#26
Lexus Test Driver
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Original Poster : Check my SC300 link on my signature. That was traveling at approx 55 MPH. You have small taters there.
I wouldn't total out that car, with the way the economy is who knows if they will screw you in the long run. Take the time to find a good shop that can fix that. Aliga, as posted already, has some amazing prices and does a damn fine job of shipping parts so you can get back up and running in no time. Plus, you get to learn more about your car and how the components work together to give you a better baseline knowledge of your own car.
I've taken apart pretty much every thing on my car minus the engine, and I couldn't be happier. I've learned so much about this car and cars in general that I'm happy I've broke some stuff.
Isn't there any shops that will give you a bull****-free check to see if your frame is ok? Patience is key
I wouldn't total out that car, with the way the economy is who knows if they will screw you in the long run. Take the time to find a good shop that can fix that. Aliga, as posted already, has some amazing prices and does a damn fine job of shipping parts so you can get back up and running in no time. Plus, you get to learn more about your car and how the components work together to give you a better baseline knowledge of your own car.
I've taken apart pretty much every thing on my car minus the engine, and I couldn't be happier. I've learned so much about this car and cars in general that I'm happy I've broke some stuff.
Isn't there any shops that will give you a bull****-free check to see if your frame is ok? Patience is key
03-27-09, 11:50 PM
#28
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Cut gramps some slack, wait & see how you drive at his age! So you need a new rad & condensor, not a big deal. The lower metal piece is your lower tie bar(frame, kinda) it is NOT structual (NOT, don't listen to anyone that says otherwise) all it really does is hold up the rad & condensor. It may need to be pulled but you should be able to straighten it in your driveway if you get alittle crafty. Could be much worse..........
03-28-09, 05:45 PM
#29
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I just wanna say thanks to everyone that offered their input/contributions, it helped me feel a lot better about this incident. I'm still waiting for an adjuster from the insurance company to come take a look at everything.
Meanwhile, I went ahead and ordered a 97+ front bumper from Carson Lexus.
Since the bumper is going to get painted, I figured might as well get the nicer front end.
Meanwhile, I went ahead and ordered a 97+ front bumper from Carson Lexus.
Since the bumper is going to get painted, I figured might as well get the nicer front end.
03-28-09, 06:25 PM
#30
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I just wanna say thanks to everyone that offered their input/contributions, it helped me feel a lot better about this incident. I'm still waiting for an adjuster from the insurance company to come take a look at everything.
Meanwhile, I went ahead and ordered a 97+ front bumper from Carson Lexus. Since the bumper is going to get painted, I figured might as well get the nicer front end.
Meanwhile, I went ahead and ordered a 97+ front bumper from Carson Lexus.
Since the bumper is going to get painted, I figured might as well get the nicer front end.