Need to replace lifters. (help?)
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: texas
Need to replace lifters. (help?)
I need to find someone in dallas who know how to work on sc400 and is looking to make some money on the side. I just want to avoid going to the dealer or going to a mechanic that is going to chop up my limbs.
Last edited by dallasbean; Dec 27, 2008 at 08:40 PM.
Why do you want to replace your lifters? Has a mechanic told you this, and if so, how did this person come up with this diagnosis? I do not ever hear of lifters only needing replacement.
Replacing the lifters is a big job, they are a shim over bucket design, and you will have to go into the head and remove the cams to do so. You will then have to re-shim them. This will not be a cheap job, the buckets are also not cheap, and you will need a lot of them...
Ryan
Replacing the lifters is a big job, they are a shim over bucket design, and you will have to go into the head and remove the cams to do so. You will then have to re-shim them. This will not be a cheap job, the buckets are also not cheap, and you will need a lot of them...
Ryan
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: texas
i have not had a mechanic look at them. I am new to toyota motors. I was a mitsubishi fan, but i came across a good deal on this car, but i dont know crap about them and i can hear the lifter clicking.
most older toyota motors dont have hydraulic lifters. instead it is a shim over bucket(lifter) design. meaning the cam pushes on the shim(quarter looking thing), which pushes the bucket, and that pushes the valves open.
with age the shims can wear out. if they are "clicking" or "ticking" just replace the shims.
since you came from the DSM community i assume you know somewhat how to work on car. if you dont that means you are rich because the amount of time those piece of **** things spend at the shop is just amazing. the only way to own a DSM is to be a mechanic
you need to pull off the valve covers and have a feeler gauge set ready.
measure the gap on each valve.
write down that measurement.
figure out what the factory recommended clearances are.
intake and exhaust will have different recommendations. intake is always a bit less.
i usually set my intake to about 0.008"-0.010". and exhaust to about 0.010"-0.012". im not sure what the factory asks for but this is what i use on just about every motor and it works great.
example:
measure the clearance...say you measure 0.013" on the intake side.set that to A.
you need 0.008". that's measurement B
subtracting A-B=C
C is the difference you need to make up using a thicker shim. C=0.005"
now you will need to pull out that shim from the bucket. (there is a special tool that is available to do the job without pulling out the cams)
after removing the shim measure it with a micrometer or a quality caliper. say that measurement is D. say you got a shim thats 0.120"
since you had too much clearance you need a thicker shim. from the previous equation we know that we need to make up for 0.005" of slack.
add D+C=E. you now know that you need E to be 0.125"
E is the new shim thickness that you need. go to the dealer and buy the shim of that thickness.
now you have to do this with every single shim. this is a long explanation but once you get going it doesnt take long at all. the longest time is going to be at the dealership explaining to them what you need. those guys at the parts department are generally idiots.
if you have the factory service manual it will list all available shim thicknesses and the part numbers for them.
recap if youre too lazy to read it all:
variable:
A= your measured clearance
B= recommended clearance
C= difference of A and B
D= your shim thickness
E= new shim thickness required
A-B=C
D+C=E
good luck
with age the shims can wear out. if they are "clicking" or "ticking" just replace the shims.
since you came from the DSM community i assume you know somewhat how to work on car. if you dont that means you are rich because the amount of time those piece of **** things spend at the shop is just amazing. the only way to own a DSM is to be a mechanic
you need to pull off the valve covers and have a feeler gauge set ready.
measure the gap on each valve.
write down that measurement.
figure out what the factory recommended clearances are.
intake and exhaust will have different recommendations. intake is always a bit less.
i usually set my intake to about 0.008"-0.010". and exhaust to about 0.010"-0.012". im not sure what the factory asks for but this is what i use on just about every motor and it works great.
example:
measure the clearance...say you measure 0.013" on the intake side.set that to A.
you need 0.008". that's measurement B
subtracting A-B=C
C is the difference you need to make up using a thicker shim. C=0.005"
now you will need to pull out that shim from the bucket. (there is a special tool that is available to do the job without pulling out the cams
)after removing the shim measure it with a micrometer or a quality caliper. say that measurement is D. say you got a shim thats 0.120"
since you had too much clearance you need a thicker shim. from the previous equation we know that we need to make up for 0.005" of slack.
add D+C=E. you now know that you need E to be 0.125"
E is the new shim thickness that you need. go to the dealer and buy the shim of that thickness.
now you have to do this with every single shim. this is a long explanation but once you get going it doesnt take long at all. the longest time is going to be at the dealership explaining to them what you need. those guys at the parts department are generally idiots.
if you have the factory service manual it will list all available shim thicknesses and the part numbers for them.
recap if youre too lazy to read it all:
variable:
A= your measured clearance
B= recommended clearance
C= difference of A and B
D= your shim thickness
E= new shim thickness required
A-B=C
D+C=E
good luck
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