2jz Soarer Goals
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 329
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From: Ontario
thanks alot guys for the help...
so Boostlogic HG what is this? ?
and ARP studs are a must...
but the Cams and Cam gear is it gonna make that much of a difference?
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 329
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From: Ontario
what other companys can i look at for 67mm turbos?
what should be my list of parts so far ive got this much figured out
new manifold with t3/t4 flange
67mm turbo
waste gate
blow off valve,
new piping,
600cc injectors maybe bigger
walboro intank fuel pump
cams (what company do you recommend) Not too pricy but good quality...
ARP Head Studs
Head Gasket
what else?
what should be my list of parts so far ive got this much figured out
new manifold with t3/t4 flange
67mm turbo
waste gate
blow off valve,
new piping,
600cc injectors maybe bigger
walboro intank fuel pump
cams (what company do you recommend) Not too pricy but good quality...
ARP Head Studs
Head Gasket
what else?
honestly- for 600rwhp, you may not even need cams. the stock, un-adjustible cam gears are the most reliable parts you can pick.
***what kind of gas do you want to make 600rwhp on?
91 octane? 93? do you have magic Juice 98 octane in Canada?
HKS 264 would be drop in standard, if you want to make more power numbers, then up to 272. 280 is not really street car. other companies also make camshafts. compare the money to the benefits ratio- you have to re-shim your valvetrain when going cams (another expense, may or may not cost you much). changing valve springs/valves/valvetrain components are definately cool and beneficial for all out power applications, but most people will not need to take the 2j past its stock valvetrain ability to make power. Obviously, if cams/valvetrain are in budget you can do it, but you may wish you had shifted funds to have nice filet mignon all the time instead of on a valvetrain.
stock valvetrain good enough for most people. if you going for 1,000 rwhp OVER and spinning to the sky on super boost (8,000-9,000K) then u need both cams and valvetrain.
for up to 800rwhp, people have ran stock NA or stock turbo (usdm or jdm) cams. when you cam a 2jz, it opens up top end (peak) power yes, but you do shift your powerband- the whole point of cams. if you have a VVTi head, then you can tune for this issue with vvti.
you do need the fuel system (perhaps dual hanger Walburrito 255, or denso if you like less noise.
stock injectors for mk4 2jzgte (usa are) 550cc, they will max around low 500rwhp range, so perhaps some 650-750cc injectors would work- ask your dyno tuner what they would want to tune. Who is tuning your car- you are in toronto?
a 44-50mm wastegate might be advised, FMIC kit will be needed as well, or at least a upgraded piping kit and large drop in replacement SMIC (ala ARC aristo, aftermarket JZA80, etc)
ARP studs may or may not be needed. I'd do some research before ordering, you may or may not need.
with a random JDM motor, i would suggest a bottom end / gasket rebuild. its not that hard. You never know what you get in a used random motor, its not worth risking a kaboom (in your car). at least have the shop pull the oil pan to check for metal in the pan- second hand 2j's often have worn centre crank main bearing/thrust - esp if its been overboosted on, or it was a 6mt model and ran with heavy clutch.
the 2jzgte has alot of slight factory variences, what vehicle did the import shop sell you a motor from?
boost logic head gasket may mean: run 2 oem 2jzgte head gaskets, stacked to be double thick for extra boost. This is an old school method of doing it - probably works well if boost logic has been doing it for years. Most likely developed to drop the NA compression from 10:1 to something less than that, I've never cc'd a 2jz head and done the math so i dont know what exact compression figures are, but 2 headgaskets are thicker than one....
another method would be to run a cometic or HKS (you pick fav. aftermarket brand) thick metal head gasket. Off the shelf ARP studs should work.
***what kind of gas do you want to make 600rwhp on?
91 octane? 93? do you have magic Juice 98 octane in Canada?
HKS 264 would be drop in standard, if you want to make more power numbers, then up to 272. 280 is not really street car. other companies also make camshafts. compare the money to the benefits ratio- you have to re-shim your valvetrain when going cams (another expense, may or may not cost you much). changing valve springs/valves/valvetrain components are definately cool and beneficial for all out power applications, but most people will not need to take the 2j past its stock valvetrain ability to make power. Obviously, if cams/valvetrain are in budget you can do it, but you may wish you had shifted funds to have nice filet mignon all the time instead of on a valvetrain.
stock valvetrain good enough for most people. if you going for 1,000 rwhp OVER and spinning to the sky on super boost (8,000-9,000K) then u need both cams and valvetrain.
for up to 800rwhp, people have ran stock NA or stock turbo (usdm or jdm) cams. when you cam a 2jz, it opens up top end (peak) power yes, but you do shift your powerband- the whole point of cams. if you have a VVTi head, then you can tune for this issue with vvti.
you do need the fuel system (perhaps dual hanger Walburrito 255, or denso if you like less noise.
stock injectors for mk4 2jzgte (usa are) 550cc, they will max around low 500rwhp range, so perhaps some 650-750cc injectors would work- ask your dyno tuner what they would want to tune. Who is tuning your car- you are in toronto?
a 44-50mm wastegate might be advised, FMIC kit will be needed as well, or at least a upgraded piping kit and large drop in replacement SMIC (ala ARC aristo, aftermarket JZA80, etc)
ARP studs may or may not be needed. I'd do some research before ordering, you may or may not need.
with a random JDM motor, i would suggest a bottom end / gasket rebuild. its not that hard. You never know what you get in a used random motor, its not worth risking a kaboom (in your car). at least have the shop pull the oil pan to check for metal in the pan- second hand 2j's often have worn centre crank main bearing/thrust - esp if its been overboosted on, or it was a 6mt model and ran with heavy clutch.
the 2jzgte has alot of slight factory variences, what vehicle did the import shop sell you a motor from?
boost logic head gasket may mean: run 2 oem 2jzgte head gaskets, stacked to be double thick for extra boost. This is an old school method of doing it - probably works well if boost logic has been doing it for years. Most likely developed to drop the NA compression from 10:1 to something less than that, I've never cc'd a 2jz head and done the math so i dont know what exact compression figures are, but 2 headgaskets are thicker than one....
another method would be to run a cometic or HKS (you pick fav. aftermarket brand) thick metal head gasket. Off the shelf ARP studs should work.
Last edited by wanganstyl; Jan 5, 2009 at 02:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
honestly- for 600rwhp, you may not even need cams. the stock, un-adjustible cam gears are the most reliable parts you can pick.
***what kind of gas do you want to make 600rwhp on?
91 octane? 93? do you have magic Juice 98 octane in Canada?
HKS 264 would be drop in standard, if you want to make more power numbers, then up to 272. 280 is not really street car. other companies also make camshafts. compare the money to the benefits ratio- you have to re-shim your valvetrain when going cams (another expense, may or may not cost you much). changing valve springs/valves/valvetrain components are definately cool and beneficial for all out power applications, but most people will not need to take the 2j past its stock valvetrain ability to make power. Obviously, if cams/valvetrain are in budget you can do it, but you may wish you had shifted funds to have nice filet mignon all the time instead of on a valvetrain.
stock valvetrain good enough for most people. if you going for 1,000 rwhp OVER and spinning to the sky on super boost (8,000-9,000K) then u need both cams and valvetrain.
for up to 800rwhp, people have ran stock NA or stock turbo (usdm or jdm) cams. when you cam a 2jz, it opens up top end (peak) power yes, but you do shift your powerband- the whole point of cams. if you have a VVTi head, then you can tune for this issue with vvti.
you do need the fuel system (perhaps dual hanger Walburrito 255, or denso if you like less noise.
stock injectors for mk4 2jzgte (usa are) 550cc, they will max around low 500rwhp range, so perhaps some 650-750cc injectors would work- ask your dyno tuner what they would want to tune. Who is tuning your car- you are in toronto?
a 44-50mm wastegate might be advised, FMIC kit will be needed as well, or at least a upgraded piping kit and large drop in replacement SMIC (ala ARC aristo, aftermarket JZA80, etc)
ARP studs may or may not be needed. I'd do some research before ordering, you may or may not need.
with a random JDM motor, i would suggest a bottom end / gasket rebuild. its not that hard. You never know what you get in a used random motor, its not worth risking a kaboom (in your car). at least have the shop pull the oil pan to check for metal in the pan- second hand 2j's often have worn centre crank main bearing/thrust - esp if its been overboosted on, or it was a 6mt model and ran with heavy clutch.
the 2jzgte has alot of slight factory variences, what vehicle did the import shop sell you a motor from?
boost logic head gasket may mean: run 2 oem 2jzgte head gaskets, stacked to be double thick for extra boost. This is an old school method of doing it - probably works well if boost logic has been doing it for years. Most likely developed to drop the NA compression from 10:1 to something less than that, I've never cc'd a 2jz head and done the math so i dont know what exact compression figures are, but 2 headgaskets are thicker than one....
another method would be to run a cometic or HKS (you pick fav. aftermarket brand) thick metal head gasket. Off the shelf ARP studs should work.
***what kind of gas do you want to make 600rwhp on?
91 octane? 93? do you have magic Juice 98 octane in Canada?
HKS 264 would be drop in standard, if you want to make more power numbers, then up to 272. 280 is not really street car. other companies also make camshafts. compare the money to the benefits ratio- you have to re-shim your valvetrain when going cams (another expense, may or may not cost you much). changing valve springs/valves/valvetrain components are definately cool and beneficial for all out power applications, but most people will not need to take the 2j past its stock valvetrain ability to make power. Obviously, if cams/valvetrain are in budget you can do it, but you may wish you had shifted funds to have nice filet mignon all the time instead of on a valvetrain.
stock valvetrain good enough for most people. if you going for 1,000 rwhp OVER and spinning to the sky on super boost (8,000-9,000K) then u need both cams and valvetrain.
for up to 800rwhp, people have ran stock NA or stock turbo (usdm or jdm) cams. when you cam a 2jz, it opens up top end (peak) power yes, but you do shift your powerband- the whole point of cams. if you have a VVTi head, then you can tune for this issue with vvti.
you do need the fuel system (perhaps dual hanger Walburrito 255, or denso if you like less noise.
stock injectors for mk4 2jzgte (usa are) 550cc, they will max around low 500rwhp range, so perhaps some 650-750cc injectors would work- ask your dyno tuner what they would want to tune. Who is tuning your car- you are in toronto?
a 44-50mm wastegate might be advised, FMIC kit will be needed as well, or at least a upgraded piping kit and large drop in replacement SMIC (ala ARC aristo, aftermarket JZA80, etc)
ARP studs may or may not be needed. I'd do some research before ordering, you may or may not need.
with a random JDM motor, i would suggest a bottom end / gasket rebuild. its not that hard. You never know what you get in a used random motor, its not worth risking a kaboom (in your car). at least have the shop pull the oil pan to check for metal in the pan- second hand 2j's often have worn centre crank main bearing/thrust - esp if its been overboosted on, or it was a 6mt model and ran with heavy clutch.
the 2jzgte has alot of slight factory variences, what vehicle did the import shop sell you a motor from?
boost logic head gasket may mean: run 2 oem 2jzgte head gaskets, stacked to be double thick for extra boost. This is an old school method of doing it - probably works well if boost logic has been doing it for years. Most likely developed to drop the NA compression from 10:1 to something less than that, I've never cc'd a 2jz head and done the math so i dont know what exact compression figures are, but 2 headgaskets are thicker than one....
another method would be to run a cometic or HKS (you pick fav. aftermarket brand) thick metal head gasket. Off the shelf ARP studs should work.
um im gonna be using 94Octane,
I live in Ottawa, Ontario,
um the motor came from automatic Aristo
"I already have a front mount intercooler but im gonna need another one, my intercooler is limited to 500whp, so a nice 4inch is coming in"
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 329
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From: Ontario
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