Every once in a while there is some information on here that absolutely blows me away. I never would have put that together in a million years. Amazing info. I'm betting engine mount is correct.

 

In for pics of the engine mount.

 

easier way to check motor mount is to check the movement of the motor would be to sit in the car have someone stand next to the front not directly in front and while you hold the brake shift from park to reverse then to neutral then to drive if you see a large amount of movement then your mounts are toast other way while in gear and hold the brake and push the gas at same time if it moves then yeah the mounts are done

 

how much does it cost to replace engine mounts?

 

About 6 bucks.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=275695

 

yeah if you wanna risk the chance the bolts break and it dumps the motor to the ground........ realistically the mouns usually ru n around 125-165 for a pair to some nice ones for 300-400 for the trd ones usually takes about 1.5 hr of laborso about 125-150 labor

 

I used automotive grade bolts, they were actually motor mounts bolts from a Nissan Maxima, so no risk of breaking. I've tested it to length, and there's no risk involved. I don't see any cons to this mod. Engine sits in the OEM location.

You'd also know that OEM mounts split when theyre old and used? Right down the middle? Mine did, thats the reason I did this mod.

I guess if you wanna waste money, go OEM.

 

sometimes people get caught up in the "too good to be true" that they miss out entirely on the mechanics of a real simple fix...

I would have no problem doing that mod - hell, its not a lot different than a solid metal motor mount - they can break too, but the hockey puck mod actually gives a little damping... hot rodders have been doing stuff like this for a long long time... most aftermarket mounts are just polyurethane inserts that work similarly to a hockey puck....