Car idles @ 1100 or 900 in drive.

If I turn the steering wheel the vacuum and idle dips real low and the car starts to shake and act like its gonna stall. It actually did stall on one occasion...

Does this sound like a vacuum leak? I have one hose which i think is a vac hose but there is no air going in or out... ? Its the skinny hose that goes on the intake near the maf. It is NOT connected atm. This is an older pic I used before the turbo so you can get an idea of which hose im talking about.

 

The idle speeds sound about the same as me, and a while back (like a year ago) any time I would make a U-turn and lock the steering the car would try to stall when there was no load on the engine. I got new plugs and it fixed the problem right up.

 

My plugs need changing anyway, ill give that a shot and see if that helps.

Thanks

 

what is the car supposed to idle at in drive anyways? mines idles at around like 600 or so after it warms up...

Peace out

 

500 - 600 is supposed to be normal idle in drive. I think its 700 or 800 in park.

Mine does 1000-1100 in park and 800 in drive. That doesnt bother me too much, its the damn shaking and almost dying when I turn the wheel at a stop. If I'm driving and turning there are NO issues at all... depending on how fast im traveling...

 

Powersteering idle up bad ?. I dont think plugs will cause it.

 

How would I go about fixing that?? I did a search but didn't come up with anything.

I tried capping off that line today that I circled in the pic, didnt make a difference.

I also noticed that it happens when I switch into drive or reverse. The car idle and vacuum just dips real low and starts to shake but goes back up.

 

Something sounds goofy, Check all your vacuum lines. Cant hurt, right?

Is it dropping when the wheel hits the lock...(Turns lock to lock) or is it dropping with a slight turn?

Do a tune up, get everything checked out. Flush that PS system, good oil change can do this cheap. Check your rack too...make sure there isn't anything swelling up while turning.

 

It drops with a slight turn, wheel lock, shift to drive, 2nd, L or reverse.

I'm gonna go over all the vac lines again to see if anything is cracked/broken. I recently upgraded the vac lines but I've had the issue with the idle and stuff since I got the car.

I did the oil change yesterday, while it didn't solve the problem the car does run much smoother. =D

I'm gonna do the plugs again since I bet they're fouled from when I was running rich.

Ill try flushing the PS pump since that was probably never done.

 

Ok just did a bit more research... and I think the issues are due to my wideband connected to the ecu O2 sensor wires. The car becomes so lean when I shift or move the steering wheel it cause it to sputter..

When disconnecting the wideband from the 02 wires I have no issues at all.

I was reading that the white wire puts out a 0-5v signal. The UEGO is calibrated to also read 0-5v.

My o2's require a 0-1v signal, so if i recalibrate to run 0-1v this means the wideband wont work properly.

Can anyone confirm this? I'm guessing my only alternative is to have an o2 put into my downpipe.

 

Problem solved! Got a bosch screw in type, one wire. Plugged it up and the car runs beautifully now! No more stuttering or anything like that. Ill probably work on doing the 12 volt fuel mod now.

The part number for the bosch sensor is 11051. Its like 23 bucks at pepboys!

 

Check your plugs

 

I'm replacing those things today since I KNOW they're gonna be fouled up.

 

Trying to get a visual of what exactly u did, since ill be going na-t soon I want to make sure I get all my views right. Where did u put the o2 sensor (dp mp)? and how many o2 sensor do u have now? and lastly the o2 that u put in is hooked up to the wideband correct? Like I said just want to make sure I get majority of the information before I start the project. Been on clubna-t.com for weeks checking all builds for everything. Thanks in advance

 

For the OBD1's since the downpipe doesnt accept our flanged o2 sensors i removed them and I was gonna wire them to my wideband. Turns out it doesnt work. So in order for the car to run right you need that o2. So I wired both wires that came from the ecu going to where the stock o2's were and wired them to one o2 ( the bosch) and stuck that in the down pipe.