so does the midpipe obx sells eliminate the cat and what's the size of the pipe...?

 

I'm going to guess 2.5", didn't see it listed.

 

The real obx does some good work-- I know a lot of SR20 guys that swear by them for NA --

 

I agree, that MVP header looks much better engineered. The welds, the bends, much more quality than the OBX variant.

 

Oh no doubt about that.

The question comes down to, for the budget SC300 builder, $300 for a header and midpipe, or $500 for just the header? If you're looking for a header and can afford the MVP there's really no choice to be made, but the prices on the cars have come down a lot and there are plenty of people scraping by on modding them now.

 

Well I'm going to try these out. I've been wanting to take my cats out and have been thinking about getting these headers. I'll let you all know what kind of gains I see. I g-teched (I not the best way but it's a start) my car for horse power on and off the bottle and I'll let you know if the horse power goes up. I'll cross my fingers. I plan to go NA-T in a year or so I don't see the point of going with the more costly headers if I will not be using them for years.

 

Should be 3" since stock is 3".
^^^exactly!

 

Well I got the header in today and I looks real nice. By the way the toyota header has a flex joint in the same place as the obx has and from the looks of it, it does look like the front bank would get more torque put on it just because it is further out and the whole leverage thing. One big problem is that the rear bank o2 sensor nut is facing the rear of the car so right where the sensor goes there is only about two inches of clearance between the header and the firewall and the sensor is about 3 in. long. I just used an angle grinder to to cut the nut out and moved it to a better location. It only took about an hour and I didn't worry about how it looked because it is out of sight. A shop could do it much faster because they are set up to do this work were as I was just playing in the garage. I bet the most it could cost would be about 20 bucks. I get my o2 sensors in the mail tomorrow and then I'll let you know what the g-tech says,

 

Let us know if it feels different as well.

 

I'm interested to see how this turns out.

 

dont do it.........na-t!!!!!

 

I'm going to go NA-t or swap but being that I just got the car the wife says I should wait so for now I put a 75 shot of nitrous, today I'll put the header and midpipe, and then maybe a BFI in the next week or two. It also buys me some time to figure out what I want to do i.e. NA -T or 2JZ.

 

OK, first the good. I tested the car again whit the g-tech (I don't know how good these are but they at least seem to be close) Before the header I tested the HP putting in that the car's weight was 3500 lb I think it weighs more than that but I just put it in for testing reasons. After a few runs the best I got was 119 hp NA and then I ran 171 hp on the bottle with the 75 shot. After the header and mid pipe install the g-tach said that I ran 151 hp and 197 hp on the nitrous. I don't know how it could gain this much but it feels allot faster in the mid range. Before the header when I would start hard off the the line with no nitrous it would bog down a little after the tires would hook-up. It would do this at what ever RPM 3, 4, or 5k. Now there is no bogging I am very impressed with the performance. Also the g-tech says I took 1.3 seconds off my 0-60 no nitrous and .5 off with nitrous. I'm happy with this upgrade.

Now the bad. I don't like the way it sounds with the header. There is allot more engine noise and it isn't the engine noise that I like. I think that I will wrap the headers to cut down on this or put on the flowmasters off my sc400 also had change the o2 sensor location because they had it pointing right into the firewall PITA. Also some times the header to mid pipe flange will rattle against the frame because they are touching. Not sure what I will do but I think I will try and bend it just a bit.

Over all I'm very happy with this item. I have some pics that I might be able to post if there is interest.

 

This is how I moved the location of the o2 sensor (I know ugly but it was the only thin scrap of metal I had on hand and it is totally out of sight.

 

Pic of the mid pipe so if you have a cat back it will bolt right up.