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****Official Wheel & Tire Fitment Guide for SC300/SC400****
#5897
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
So kind of new here. First post.
looking to get new set of wheels so I can run a 315/30r18 drag radial. I have looked at over 30 pages and hardly any one runs this big of a tire. I am wondering what offset I should get? I plan on getting 10" wide wheels so the tire will poke out more then the rim. Also open to going wider if I find the right rim. This is only for rear tire.
purpose -I will only be drag racing this car
Ride hight- have Megan coilovers so can adjust
rear fenders- are pulled (whoever did it should be taken out back and Beaten with whatever he did it with.)
tire size- 315/30r18 drag radials
Rim-
18x10 offset???
18x10.5 offset???
18x11 offset???
I hope I have thought of everything. Thanks in advance!! This is the first thing I have not found easily on the site!!
looking to get new set of wheels so I can run a 315/30r18 drag radial. I have looked at over 30 pages and hardly any one runs this big of a tire. I am wondering what offset I should get? I plan on getting 10" wide wheels so the tire will poke out more then the rim. Also open to going wider if I find the right rim. This is only for rear tire.
purpose -I will only be drag racing this car
Ride hight- have Megan coilovers so can adjust
rear fenders- are pulled (whoever did it should be taken out back and Beaten with whatever he did it with.)
tire size- 315/30r18 drag radials
Rim-
18x10 offset???
18x10.5 offset???
18x11 offset???
I hope I have thought of everything. Thanks in advance!! This is the first thing I have not found easily on the site!!
60.1 is the center bore diameter for lexus. You'll want it the same size or larger. Toyota/Lexus is the smallest hub diameter I've encountered, so most wheels will be larger. You can order hub rings to fill in the gap if it bothers you.
#5900
So if i use the tire sizes you suggested i wont need to roll the fenders or will i have to roll them regardless?
#5901
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
If you want no mods at all, then you're looking at something like a 9 +35 or higher in the rear. The fronts I'm not too sure what size fits without any mods.
#5902
From what info I can find these are American Racing "Rebel" wheels 17x9 +24mm. And 245/45r17 on all 4 corners. Bought it like this so I need to dig a little deeper.
Pretty flippin flush. Glad to have the side skirt and rear aprons. Lines out jist right in my opinion
also last pic is from the CL ad, unlike the seller i know how to park between the white lines....
Pretty flippin flush. Glad to have the side skirt and rear aprons. Lines out jist right in my opinion
also last pic is from the CL ad, unlike the seller i know how to park between the white lines....
#5903
Guys I need your help. Just got my 98 SC300 last week. I now have a chance to purchase the wheels I've been wanting for the longest. Racinghart Type C . Spec are 18x8.5 with 28 offset and 18x9.5 with 40 offset. I'm still on stock suspension but will lower the car an inch or 2 soon. Will these wheels work without any fender mods? Much appreciated
#5904
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Guys I need your help. Just got my 98 SC300 last week. I now have a chance to purchase the wheels I've been wanting for the longest. Racinghart Type C . Spec are 18x8.5 with 28 offset and 18x9.5 with 40 offset. I'm still on stock suspension but will lower the car an inch or 2 soon. Will these wheels work without any fender mods? Much appreciated
Once lowered, The rears will be fine. I'm not really sure about the fronts since I don't remember the clearance of oem fenders. I think you'll be fine or very close to them. Worse case scenario you'll have to shave some of the fender lip off. You won't need a complete roll.
#5907
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
They'll be sunken in, but its right on that gray area between needing and not needing fender work. I'd recommend running them with a spacer to be flush (at least a 15mm). If you do decide to buy them, then you could always move the 9.5 to the front and rebarrel the 8.5's. Relipping isn't an option since OZ futuras are 2 piece welded, so you'd have to replace the inner and outer lip.
The following users liked this post:
MDNT_DRV (06-19-17)
#5908
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (1)
They'll be sunken in, but its right on that gray area between needing and not needing fender work. I'd recommend running them with a spacer to be flush (at least a 15mm). If you do decide to buy them, then you could always move the 9.5 to the front and rebarrel the 8.5's. Relipping isn't an option since OZ futuras are 2 piece welded, so you'd have to replace the inner and outer lip.
ETA: are you sure they're welded? the guy said they've been relipped and are on stock barrels...!
Last edited by MDNT_DRV; 06-19-17 at 09:11 PM.
#5909
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
thank you for the info! how badly sunken in do you think they'll be? i'm not a huge stance/flush person and i was going to do a slight drop but not that much. don't have a problem getting my fenders rolled so i'll probably do that. and i was thinking about using a 5mm spacer to avoid any safety issues... seems like some ppl say 15mm is dangerous, so idk. i'll read up more on it. if i can do that with only extended studs, maybe i'll do that. thinking about 265/35/18 in the rear, 245/40/18 in the front.
ETA: are you sure they're welded? the guy said they've been relipped and are on stock barrels...!
ETA: are you sure they're welded? the guy said they've been relipped and are on stock barrels...!
The wheels I was thinking about in my head during my initial reply was Koenig Monsters (they look the same), and the ones I've dealt with were welded. After you asked, I realized I've never seen a set of OZ futuras in person (only koenigs), so I'm not 100% sure if they are.
The following users liked this post:
MDNT_DRV (06-19-17)