replace the 10inch subwoofer?

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Dec 7, 2001 | 02:05 PM

#16

DIrEctQL

Chicago Lexus Club Moderator

Joined: Jul 2001

Posts: 3,719

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From: Illinois

Here, check it out:

http://www.mmxpress.com/

Dec 7, 2001 | 03:12 PM

#17

moshlub

Intermediate

Joined: Jul 2001

Posts: 317

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From: California

Quote:

Originally posted by do-luck sc
hey lkon, i think i remember that thread, but i if i remember correctly, i think he just bought another amp to run the sub. to everyone else... i have a 10 kicker free air and it sounds much better than the stock one. i used the old school rockford fosgate chrome amp to run it. i don't think you can fit a 12" in there because the gas tank will be in the way, unless you want to custom a rear deck. i was thinking about doing that for more highs in the back, but decided it was a waste of money. besides, who sits in the back of a lexus sC anyways??

Awhile back, I (MoshluB) posted something like that. I had all the directions on what to do to get the 10" factory sub out including the pin-out diagram of the sub-amp harness.

Since the factory sub is rated at 40 watts and will drive ONLY a 1-ohm speaker, I had to use an aftermarket amplifier. I keep forgetting to check the model, but the sub is a 400W max 10" free-air Pioneer sub. It's not the latest one. The amp I used was an Orion Cobalt 2100 that pumps out 150W RMS when bridged. It bumps pretty good, but it doesn't sound clean, because of the rear deck design. My friends said that the rattle came from the back window and not the deck. I haven't sat back there. I imagine most of the rattling would go away if I took more time to isolate it.

I moved the factory surround fill amplifier to immediately underneath the CD changer, and installed my Orion in its same location. Unless you start taking panels off, you won't know my car is running an aftermarket sub and amp.

BTW, I had to bend the mounting hole and make it slightly open more towards the bottom in order to mount the speaker. The speaker basket is bigger because it has a much larger magnet. My speaker sits right on the gas tank. From the bottom of the rear deck to the top of the gas tank, there is only six inches to work with, so a 12" sub is most definitely out of the question.

Dec 10, 2001 | 09:41 AM

#18

Ali SC4

Pole Position

Joined: Oct 2001

Posts: 380

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From: Denver

moshlub

Thx

Quote:

Since the factory sub is rated at 40 watts and will drive ONLY a 1-ohm speaker, I had to use an aftermarket amplifier.

Is the 40 watt 1-ohm system also used in the cars with the pioneer premium system or only the Nakamichi?

Thx

Dec 10, 2001 | 10:15 AM

#19

moshlub

Intermediate

Joined: Jul 2001

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From: California

I believe the Pioneer has the 40W amp, whereas the Nakamichi has more power. Although, both are rated at 1ohms.

Dec 12, 2001 | 06:03 PM

#20

MrWigggles

Rookie

Joined: Jul 2001

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From: Houston

To get a one ohm speaker you can wire a dual 2 ohm voice coil woofer in parrallel.

I plan to build a subwoofer enclosure with a JL 12W3-D2. If it doesn't get loud enough for me, I will swap out the amp.

-Mr. Wigggles

Dec 12, 2001 | 06:09 PM

#21

moshlub

Intermediate

Joined: Jul 2001

Posts: 317

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From: California

Sorry if I sound a little sarcastic (I've been having fun with another post), but ...

that factory amp is only 40W MAXIMUM -- I repeat MAXIMUM. Who knows what the RMS is. Do you honestly think it can drive two JL's???

Take a look at the size of the factory amp ... better yet, take it apart and look at its circuitry. It's merely a PCB with a couple capacitors and resistors. What??? No coils???

Please ... please, while you're at it, just replace that amp.