I just finished my 5 speed swap last night. Overall the job wasn't too difficult. Pretty straight forward. Couldn't have done it if it wasn't for CL members.

If anyone is having any difficulties w/ thier swap, just let me know and I'll be glad to walk anyone through it. Once I get some free time (this weekend) I'll update this thread with a "How To" and try to be as detailed as I can.

1994 SC300 Auto-->Manual

 

as far as drilling the firewall, is it already marked for where to drill? i know on my friends 240 on the inside of the car there was a mark for where to drill.

 

did u put in a SC manual or use a Supra manual tranny?

 

how much exactly did you spend with the swap?

 

did you use a w58? was drilling the firewall hard?

 

I'm about to drill the firewall, and I realized it's much easier just to replace the brake pedal itself, rather than the assembly when installing the brake pedal.

I also noticed the w58 is VERY light.

What i would like to see is how you set up the hydraulic lines. The bleeder's on the tranny, correct?

 

Hey Allen also known as Blk97SC300 has a 5speed prob maybe you can help him out he is in the preformance section and his thread is titled "Auto to manual swap.. now the car wont start- Help!"

 

He got his started, his distributor rotor was in the wrong position.

 

To quickly answer everyone's questions.......

boobstar: Before drilling the holes, you need to remove some padding and peel back the carpet. Once you do this there is a white ecu in the way of where the clutch pedal is suppose to go. This is the ecu for the telescoping wheel. Just simply unplug this and set it aside so you can relocate it later on. The firewall already has dimples marked for the clutch pedal. There are 2 small dimples and the larger dimple for the pushrod to go through. Once you drill and line up the 2 small holes, there is a 3rd hole that holds the bottom of the bracket on. This one there is no indicator dimple. Once you drill the hole, you will need to go and find it underneath the driver's side fender lining. If you peel it back you can see it. I'll try to get a picture of it once I get some more free time.

ShadowSC:
I used a transmission out of a 92 SC300. Actually all of my stock swap parts were from this 92 donor car.

Tri0 #3: Grand total of my swap so far is..... $1,200
$600 for the tranny/mount/shifter/master/slave/pedal/hardline
$175 for the driveshaft
~$250 for the clutch (Centerforce Dual Friction) *Highly recommend*
$50 for the shiftboot
$150 for used clutch/pp/flywheel
$30 for flywheel to get resurfaced

sc300tt: I did end up using the W58, simply because of availability and cost. I would have much rather done the more beefier R154, but was unable to locate any. As for drilling the firewall. It wasn't difficult, just awkward. Once you peel back all the padding,carpet, and remove the telescopic steering wheel ecu, then you can get to the dimples.

tavarish: The W58 is very light. One person can lift it up easily. The hydraulic lines confused the heck out of me. Once you bolt the slave to the tranny, you can kind of tell how the lines are suppose to run. The hardline that runs from the master to the slave soft line was the hardest thing to thread underneath everything on it's way down to the slave. I did not have a Factory Service Manual, so I held everything down with some zip ties and placed the hardlines were I think they were naturally bending. I'll get some more detailed pics when I get my car back up in the air.

 

is there any benifit in using the 5 speed engine harness and or ecu?

 

Yea.. what an idiot that guy must be, eh?

Everything seems to be working pretty well right now though, so it's all good.

Yea, I'd have to agree that the swap isn't bad at all. The line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder consists of 3 sections. There is a short hard line connected to the slave, which is connected to a soft line, which is then connected to a pretty long hard line that leads up to the master cylinder. Bleeding is easy and simple- just like bleeding any other clutch or brake system.

You can also adjust the engagement point of the clutch and the overall height of the clutch pedal as well. If anyone has questions regarding the auto to manual swap, feel free to PM me as well.

Allen

 

Since you used the W58, how much horsepower are you going to be pushing. I hear that the W58 can hold up to 700 now(on some peoples cars). I a, going to drop my Supra engine in my SC. And that engine is producing almost double of what the max Hp the W58 can handle. Right now i have a modded R154 in my supra(MKIII). That tranny is holding just fine with the Hp/TQ. But then agian i want to try and get the R-154 to fit. But i don't know where to get the shifter.All i see is a custom made one.... Thanks for your help.

 

Ive heard from multiple people that the W58 is weak. My motor is stock except for a Blitz NurSpecR exhaust. I don't plan on pushing any big numbers through my motor for awhile.

If you are able to find the R154 I would go that route. But I don't have experience in swapping that tranny so I don't think I'll be as much help to you as I would w/ someone swapping in the W58.

yelloa3gti: I used the auto harness w/ the auto ecu. Right now I have found a couple small issues w/ the wiring. (I haven't fully finished the wiring, but the car is up and running and is driveable) After driving for awhile my OverDrive On/Off light on the cluster will begin to flash at me. Don't know if this has something to do w/ the 5th gear selector in the auto harness or something. But I'll look into it.

 

i also did the swap with a w58 trans and the wiring is easy.. for the reverse lights there is a reverse switch on the left side(drivers side) of the tranny and has 2 wires.. find the power source wire for your lights(black and red i think) look at scematics to make sure. it is located next to your shifter right behind it. and find a 12v source.. then add 2 wires one on each wire of the reverse switch... run one to the power source and the other to your reverse light wire. the only other wiring needed is the clutch/neutral safty wires... same thing.. add a wire to the two wires off the neutral switch and run them to your clutch switch or just jump them together.. but it will start without pressing clutch. and the overdrive light just remove the bulb. if you have trac you cant turn it off unless you unplug the trac motor on the throttle body, and the memory seats and steering whell wont work either because you cant put it in park to set them... i have the sc300 5 speed ecu is someone wants it... the auto works but the timing gets screwy

 

Can you swap guys let me know if the auto and 5 speed drive shafts are the same? I've read various threads and some say they are different and others say they are identical.