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Time to replace SC400 starter/alternator?

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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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Default Time to replace SC400 starter/alternator?

Alright guys- It's that time of the year, and the weather is cold. I've been doing a lot of research on this topic, as I DO NOT want to replace the dreaded starter...but it seems like i'm going to.

If let set for a few days, my car seems weak to start...not a good thing. It lugs when i turn the key- "waaaaaaah....waaaaaah....waaaaahhh....FIRE!", and after about 4 seconds it finally fires. Now, we've had a few warm days where it would fire right up... and the starter would actually sound "hyper active" and spun like crazy. Why is this?

I have scheduled an appointment at my buddies garage (he does all my work) and i thought i might as well get over it and pay to have both the alternator and starter replaced so I wont have to worry about it later down the road. My car has 130k on the clock.

The shop quoted me $800 tax and all for parts and labor... a STEAL according to many people on the forums that are being quoted over a grand JUST for the starter. These guys are import specialists, and they actually had an SC400 in the week before to replace the same parts. At least its still fresh on their minds, right?

Any input would be appreciated.

-Steve
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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if there's nothign wrong with the alternator, i'd say leave it alone...

single click, or multiple clicks with your starter?? or is it staying engaged after the engine runs?
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 03:16 PM
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Time to replace SC400 starter/alternator?
Time to use the engine forum.

Please
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Default starter

I had similar problems with my 1JZ SC300. Changed the starter and it cranks good. Starter cost me 154.00 at autozone. I did the labor myself. 800 sounds a little steep for the starter & alternater. Just me. GL
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 08:34 PM
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Well apparently its much more complicated to change out the starter in the 400- as it is actually under the engine (go figure).

Anyways- the starter is not clicking at all, it may be fine...but it just seem like my battery is drained, or really weak. There can't be anything wrong with my battery, as I have just replaced it. I'm leaning towards a bad alternator.

-steve
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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Something to consider - the positive and/or negative wiring looms going from your battery terminals to all of the many places they go. If power is being lost (either on the positive end or negative) at any location along each of those paths all sorts of odd things can start to happen. Including I've come to learn, bad or inconsistent starter operation. It does of course make sense as the starter only has electricity to work with after all. I'm planning on going and buying new + and - wire sets and redoing the whole shebang if needed. It HAS to be cheaper (I'd guess in the 140 to 200 dollar range for both sets) then the "MOST DIFFICULT STARTER REPLACEMENT PROCESS EVER INVENTED" that we have to deal with as 400 owners.

Now, that all said - I've chimed in here because like you my 400 (although VERY well maintained from 1 owner and only 108k miles) does the same thing. I'd say about once every 8th to 10th time I get the "Hyperactive" starter just like you.

What is this all about we wonder? Additionally, does anyone know the facts about the intermittent "Hyperactive" starter scenario we've described on early model (1991-1996) SC400s?

Last edited by CLRH2O; Feb 8, 2007 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 04:27 AM
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i know nothing about hyperactive starters on the sc400's ( i own a 430). but i would question replacing the positive and negative cables just to avoid doing the starter. have you tested the wires to see if you're getting the correct voltage through them? what other things does your car do, or not do, that would lead you to believe the cables would be at fault over the starter. it is my understanding that replacing the starter on a sc400 is somewhat of a endeavor but it seems like replacing cables that show no outward signs of being bad (unless you have tested them) is both a waste of time and money. just my .02.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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When I take the car to the shop this wednesday, I will have them check the amps on the alternator, as well as the voltage on the wires. If they are just the wires that need replacing, it will be MUCH cheaper than spending 800$ on a starter/alternator....we'll see how it goes though.

As for my "hyperactive starter," I experience it every 8-10 startups as well...not sure what the deal is? Maybe our cars just need a complete overhaul

-steve
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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The intermittent problem almost sounds like wires, but could be contacts, BUT, if it's trying to turn over, but just slowly, AND only when it's cold, the contacts and wires are working, I would check the battery if you haven't already with a professional tester where you take it to them like at autozone-- And have the alternator tested by them too with a handheld testers so you don't have to pull it off just to test it--

If it's the alternator going weak (sounds like it) -- there's a good writeup on the subject-- 92 Sc400 alternator rebuild -- that should help you out alot-- the alt. is easy to rebuild, and really cheap to do-- even with quality parts most likely much better than the ones the remanufactured units from parts houses use-- they're all about cheapest way to make the biggest profit-- The reason the reman units die in a year is that they are using the original design of the rectifier instead of the h/d version-- the original design was faulty-- In the writeup I show you how to rebuild it for about $75-- and it takes 15 minutes after you have it off the car.

Good luck
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:34 AM
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i appreciate it MJHSC400- I will take my car to autozone to test the battery/alternator and see what they say. If they say the alternator is having issues, i might just try rebuilding the core in my current one. How difficult is it to take the alternator off? And how long does this process take from start to finish? thanks!

-Steve
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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chuggernot - Didn't say replace them, I said check them first. DO the simple things first routine. During a check a person might find they've got bad ground. Or possibly a loose connection or bad contact on a positive end somewhere. Maybe old loose clamps on the posts due to them having been tightened beyond their normal operating range over time - we've all seen this how the ends get mashed up on the battery posts due to over tightening...

Anyway, check them first is what I suggested - if they need to be replaced or serviced it will be discovered this during that check..... which again is far easier than replacing the starter, or even getting to the starter at all to check it in the first place.

Last edited by CLRH2O; Feb 9, 2007 at 11:43 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Alright guys- took my car to Autozone...alternator, starter, and battery all checked out. We replaced the battery wires (positive and negative clamps) and that seems like it solved the issue. Apparently my negative ground wasnt very tight, and it would cause the battery to slowly drain, but once i crank the car, it would get recharged...thats what ol' dude told me. Anyways, i will let it sit overnight and see if i notice a difference in the morning...should be 20degrees tomorrow

-steve
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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by narfy
if there's nothign wrong with the alternator, i'd say leave it alone...

single click, or multiple clicks with your starter?? or is it staying engaged after the engine runs?
If it stays engaged could it be anything else but the starter? Might be in the early stages of failure because it happens maybe twice a week and its my daily driver. 94 SC400 140,000 miles.
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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My nearly new starter still seems to catch on the third try, same as the old one...also when your starter goes bad you will know.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 09:13 AM
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here i have a video of exactly what my car is doing? what could it be? starter?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOqIu...ature=youtu.be
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