This is just a helpful hint for anyone who gets the unfortunate task of removing the rear upper control arms for any reason.

When you take them off, there is a nut on the blind side that has an extra flange with a stop on it. This stop hits part of the crossmember and stops the nut from turning, so you can just turn the bolt side and loosen or tighten the bolt without needing to hold the nut.

Good in theory, but bad in execution.

These bolts are always super duper tight, so when you try to take them off, more often than not, you end up putting so much torsional force on the stop, that it bends the cheesy tab that holds it in place. Then it lifts up, and doesn't "stop" like it's supposed to do.

Best bet is to take a long screwdriver or something, tap off the c clip holding on the stop, and remove it. Then use a 19mm wrench in there to hold things

Ok, once it's off, putting it back is the real pain.

Of course the cheesy tab can't possibly hold the stop again. If you try, you will be sorry. It will bend and get all mangled, and you will have to take everything apart again. Reaching that stuff is already bad enough as it is between the crossmember and body, let alone going back in to take off something all bent up.

So here is one of my closely kept secret tips that makes things infinitely easier:

Remove the tab and c clip completely, and weld the stop ring to the nut. This makes it a whole assembly with no possibility of bending, mangling, etc.

Mig welding is ok, tig would be much better, as I did on this example. Beware though that you have to clean up the metal before welding, but anyone that welds should already know this.

Enjoy!!!!!!!

TM Engineering





Maybe this should be a sticky

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Additional helpful info:

Normally I don't see rusted cars like the east coasters have, of course if everything is rusted you are pretty much screwed and have to resort to cutting, drilling, whatever. But to get a little more working space you can unbolt the crossmember and drop it down a little, just be careful not to damage the brake or abs lines. It's going to hit the exhaust most likely so you won't get a lot of extra room, but every little bit helps.

No matter what even if you end up getting new nuts from the dealer for this, I'd still recommend doing the welding thing. I will try to get a picture of them as-installed on a crossmember that is out of the car.

 

awesome tip! i 2nd a sticky for this...

 

Great info thank you for sharing! The rear upper control arms are a complete nightmare and I'm planning on removing mine again.

 

Todd, what's this repair run at your shop? laborwise I mean? (replacing rear uca's on an SC).

-M.

 

If i were MOD, i'd sticky this....

 

you guys loooove the sticky-icky don't you? lol

 

for good info, yes!

and it looks like it is a sticky.

 

Sticky stuff is usually cool...well sometimes hah

Labor for R&R arms with no bushing work is 250.

I guess I should have mentioned that the ball joint is horribly difficult to remove on this one too.

I think I'll go back and edit the first thread now that I think about it...

 

WOOSH times two,

Superb post.

Thank you!

John

 

nice info man should make life easier on all of us

 

So, yeah. The rear ball joint seems to be stuck. I can't seem to break it for sheeat. Now I've also ruined the ball joint boot. The boot isn't replaceable, is it?

EDIT: Bought RUCA from forum member and had shop finish it. The rear is a biatch. It's worth it to take it somewhere unless you got really mad skills.

 

anyone have a step by step on how to remove the rear upper control arms? i looked and there is no way to get to the bolts.

 

The tab on the back of the nut, if its doing its job it will flip over to other side and hit the metal and not move any more so you can unscrew the bolt. Then you have to reach behind for the nut.

Harder to get the nut started when putting back on.

 

werd, I had no problems... a third hand while putting it back together was a must though...

 

Ummm, that was my whole point of this thread??????

If you try to let the tab and the stop do what they are supposed to do, the tab washer will bend off the nut, then you are screwed. The stop isn't a good stop, it has a slight roundness to it, which causes it to lift up, then unseat the c-clip, then that's it, you are in big big trouble.

It's a very bad design, and doesnt work well at all once the parts have some age and corrosion on them.

Maybe this thread should just be locked, it's not a discussion thread, it's a tech information thread.