separated it from the metal bracket and opened the side opposite of the heatsink.
The blue radial capacitor is the problem. I could see some black liquid that leaked out of it and the
bottom part of the capacitor looks rusted. There obviously wasn't enough lighting when I took the picture but ya get the idea. The capacitor says 105 Degrees Celsius on it and below that H9119.
I don't see the V value for it but on right side I could barely make out "PL(M)" so there might be other values printed on the other side. I have a friend at Radioshack so I'm gonna have him take it out and see if he can replace it. Gonna ziptie a spare 70mm processor fan from a computer to the heatsink when I get it replaced I'm gonna hook up the power from the connector to the fuel pump ecu. Kinda crazy but hey it works. I've tried already. Computer fans run at 12v anyways.
Why did I open it up? I got desperate, the car was eat'n up gas, was performing awkwardly, I was curious and had no money to replace the whole thing. Not even off of ebay.

 

UHhhhhhhhhhhh that is GLUE used to hold the capacitor in place. "Dialetric" fluid is clear.

Capacitors swell and bubble up when blown, unlike yours seen here.

 

Hey OLT:

Wanna start up an ecu repair bus? lol

Okay, so I used to take things apart like that all the time and it used to cost me a pretty penny.

DId you perform these tests first?

These are from my 00 FSM, my 93 is in the garage.

I would be careful with what you simply solder in there. Caps and other components have specific tolorances. I am sure you know that and how important a component your fuel ECU is. Might be wiser if the tests below fail, to simply purchase a replacement.

 

blown capacitor vs. good.

somtimes they actually split apart from the gasses.

 

here the fluid turned a crusty brown. But like OLT stated it is a light fluid sometimes an amber like hydraulic fluid.

 

there isn't anything that holds the capacitor in place except the two wire connections and the black liquidy stuff that leaked out of it is kinda runny like water. It's only on one of the wires.
I'm guess'n a lot of heat from the two coils and 14 years of exposure to that heat has taken it's tole. Although I don't know whether the fuel pump ecu had been replaced or not.

 

no I didn't do those tests and yes I intend to find the correct capacitor to solder in.

 

Id put her together and do the test procedure outlined above. Otherwise there is one in the FS section from Aligia.

Radio hack stinks lately. Their inventory of parts has been shrinking monthly as they do away with the parts business.... what a shame.

 

Got the Capacitor tested and it's shot so I'm look'n for a replacement
it's 820uf and can handle up to 50V.
The size of it is 18mm x 22 or 23mm. The longest the replacement can be is 25mm approximately.
Thanks for the suggestions but I got it narrowed down so I'm gonna try to look for one with a suitable size.

 

The large one is 820uf 50v, the small one is 47uf 50v.




I have been having an issue where the car wont start when it is completely dead cold and cooler than about 80deg. If I unplug the maf, bump the key, it tries to fir.e Plug it back in it then fires up but idles rough as crap till warm, then I can drive it and shut it off and back on without issue. In the afternoon when it is 90deg+ out and the car has been sitting for hours, it starts fine, but idles rough till warmed up. I figured bad ECT, changed it, same issue. Then for giggles I tried jumping the B+ and Fp pins in the check connector with the key in the on position. I heard fuel in the rail, then I tried starting it and it fired right up. So, this led me to believe it is an issue with the Fuel pump ecu, pulled mine out after finding your thread, and the small cap on mine had leaked all the fluid out and one of the legs was rusty, the large one is fine. I had a 47uf 35v cap here, soldiered it in and put the ecu back. It fired right up but the real test wont be until in the morning when I leave for work.

 

Whoa, so maybe they are serviceable, after all. I figured the common demise had to be a capacitor issue, just like with the main ECU. Nice job finding a 9.5 year old thread that didn't surface in the recent discussion on the topic.

 

Very interested in the outcome. I sent my bad fuel pump ecu to Tanin and gave them permission to tear it apart. They emailed back that it was sealed and not serviceable

 

Strange Tanin did not pry it open since you gave permission when the OP got it open just fine.

 

Agreed. They called me and said it was sealed and not serviceable. I told them to trash it.

 

lol, were they expecting there to be screws on it or something?? alot of the old toyota stuff you just pry off the cover and then some kind of glue to go back on when you are done. ever modded a flap style toyota AFM? (think 22re, 5m-ge, 7mge etc..) you have to cut/pry that sucker off and then rtv it back in place when you are done.