it can .i had my car alinged 3 times with different companies and it still did not help the tracking or the car pulling when going over humps in the road this was after i changed my control and steering rack bushings the only thing that helped a little was getting new tires.the conclusion i came to is that the bushings are just too soft for such a heavy car .when you upgrade the bushings to polyurethane bushings the car rides really rough and it also make the car handle worse .maby its just florida roads .btw i still havent tried the alignment specs you gave me .when i do my alingment next time i will be using this instead of what the shops uses

 

I think my LCA's are done recently car feels loose in the rear steering wheel tilts slightly to left to keep straight. Latest mods were new tires all around and I lowered the rear .25" more than it was. I already blew drivers side rear whole sidewall just went out. Any advice anyone. I was going to have an alignment done soon.

 

loose in the rear I've found is typically upper control arm bushings or ball joint...

 

Drives like a truck!!!

 

Oh ok I was planning on getting Supra Control Arms anyway guess I need to hurry up and get them so I can get back to boosting.

 

rear uppers? no need - ours are already lightweight aluminum.... I'd guess in the 4-6 lb range without bushings installed...

 

Oh ok so I just need to replace the rear lower ones then?

 

depends on what you are looking for... all the rears are just straight rods - they don't weigh a whole lot either, though there are three of them... lower control arm, strut rod, toe rod

if anything, just put some bushings in there like I did (prothane and daizen both sell kits)

 

Handling is great compared to the car I drove before my parents bought me the sc.... A 91 Lincoln town car.... Smooth like a limo, makes turns like a boat.. a cargo boat.

 

My SC handles just fine. The Swift springs are really of high quality. The Tokico Illuminas have allowed me the flexibility to dial in the suspension to optimize handling and comfort. The car rides great.

 

For some reason, my caster settings are bottomed out at 4.1~ with me in the car-- no way possible to get it to the factory spec 2.8 --

As far as the .023 camber spec, we just set it to zero camber, and it helped drastically (when I finally took it to another shop after the first one tried 3 different times to get it to drive right)...

Those guys were just making up specs-- The second shop got it nearly exact the very first try-- I really pushed them to try to get the specs exact -- which they were reluctant to do without prodding-- I had too much trouble with the first guys to settle for a 90% accurate setup --

So now I'm finally somewhat satisfied with the way it's acting-- but the caster after a short drive showed up to be about 4.2 on one side and 4.5 on the other -- camber is steady at zero though-

With 1 degree of neg. camber from the previous incorrect alignment, the front tires had worn enough to cause considerable tracking problems under driving cornering and braking-- a switch from the front tires to the back and the backs to the front helped this tremendously--

I believe a previous accident the car was in may be responsible for the issues with the caster--

I just wonder if going from 4.1 to 2.8 will actually make that much of a difference in tracking ---

It's definitely an improvement with switching the evenly worn tires to the front--

I really just want the car to drive perfect--

I have an idea on how to make both of my upper control arms adjustable enough to compensate for the difference and may just do that --

If I could get both of them to 3.0 caster I'd be happy -- I can mill a sleeve for my daizen bushings that will allow a drastic adjustment of the upper arm-- I actually did this on the pass. side with positive results-- so a larger slotted sleeve should give the extra adjustment I need---

 

Here's a quote I found online-- http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Makes me wonder if the .3 degree difference b/t the right and left is responsible for the car pulling to the right-- I believe the right side has the higher value at 4.5 or so-- left being 4.2 I think-- It also seems to be affecting the steering effort I mentioned in an earlier post..

 

lots of caster isn't necessarily a bad thing... IMO, it's awesome for high speed stability... When I went from the stock to almost 5 degrees caster, I could definitely feel a difference, for the better...

Caster should always be a little less on the left than the right to account for the road crown in North America... Your exact location will change the amount of difference that you should use... Typically .2 is correct. It's called Cross Caster, and the alignment machine should give you a reading of how much of a difference your car was designed for (or that the manufacturer calls for) Cross Camber is the same thing, Camber on the driver side should be .1 or .2 less than the passenger side - this also affects how the car tracks...

your tires were not worn out from having -1 degree camber, I run -2.1 front, -2.7 rear, and mine are nicely worn, maybe 1/32 more worn on the inside vs the outside and they've been on the car over 20k miles... Improper toe settings cause 90% of tire wear like you describe...

Honestly, if anything, I'd like to get more caster out of the car, some Mercedes (and others) run in excess of 10 degrees of caster...

 

I agree that it may have been due to lots of toe to make the car track straight--

Shame on that guy for screwing up $300 worth of brand new tires--

It sure feels better after switching the rears to the front and I wonder what brand new tires up front would do for the better---

Those guys at the new place didn't even agree with me being in the car for the setup-- The freakin manager wanted to charge me like $140 for a $59 alignment-- I went apeSChit-- Told him he was nuts-- Why the hell can't a shop accept that my lex just isn't a Dodge truck that takes 20 minutes to setup.... They should accept the fact that some cars are just more intensive to setup and they shouldn't try to gouge the customer if their car happens to take a little longer than a freakin Neon--

 

mine is great now :]
tires play a BIG roll.. rims too..

we upgraded from stock to 9.5's all around..

im still stock suspension.. i use to take turns at like.. 25 and hear screaching.. now i can take it at 35 no screaching at ALL!