tint problem
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: CA
tint problem
right now i am rolling around on ''charcoal smoke'' tint on my sc4. it is 5% 3 rear windows and 35%. i would wanna retint my car to black instead. hoping to be 5% in the back and 15% in the front. my question is, the back has the heater lines. if i retint it, how would they take off the old tint and put in the new? would i still have my heater lines available to use? i made a fatass mistake and i need some help. tried search, but no one had my problem. help me CL. 
Lexus Champion
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 21
From: California
I've retinted my rear window (with heater lines) before and it came out fine.
Just make sure that you take it to a professional installer that uses something other than a simple tool to scrape off the old tint and you should be okay.
Good luck,
Jon
Just make sure that you take it to a professional installer that uses something other than a simple tool to scrape off the old tint and you should be okay.
Good luck,
Jon
Originally Posted by jdmtruong
right now i am rolling around on ''charcoal smoke'' tint on my sc4. it is 5% 3 rear windows and 35%. i would wanna retint my car to black instead. hoping to be 5% in the back and 15% in the front. my question is, the back has the heater lines. if i retint it, how would they take off the old tint and put in the new? would i still have my heater lines available to use? i made a fatass mistake and i need some help. tried search, but no one had my problem. help me CL.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
OK...
Peel the original tint off. (it will leave the glue crap behind)
Coat it heavily with 409 (use 409...something about it just works) and place sheets of saran wrap over the 409.
Let the car sit in the sun to bake the crap outta the window for about an hour (windows rolled up)
Now just wipe the glue off and you're done.!!!
This is the trick that the pros use.
**EDIT** ....it may take longer than an hour (I live in Texas where its hot as hell). and its messy....make sure you lay a bunch of old towels down to absorb runoff.
Dont ask me how it works......but it does.
Peel the original tint off. (it will leave the glue crap behind)
Coat it heavily with 409 (use 409...something about it just works) and place sheets of saran wrap over the 409.
Let the car sit in the sun to bake the crap outta the window for about an hour (windows rolled up)
Now just wipe the glue off and you're done.!!!
This is the trick that the pros use.
**EDIT** ....it may take longer than an hour (I live in Texas where its hot as hell). and its messy....make sure you lay a bunch of old towels down to absorb runoff.
Dont ask me how it works......but it does.
Last edited by XanaX00SC; Oct 7, 2005 at 02:28 PM.
How to....
I think that I got this information from www.diytint.com....
Tools:
• Slotted Screwdrivers
• Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Step 8:
Removing tint from side windows Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Step 9:
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly.
Tools:
• Slotted Screwdrivers
• Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Step 8:
Removing tint from side windows Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Step 9:
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly.
Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: CA
if i peel off the old tint, wouldnt it peel off the heater lines? i heard u cant use the rear defogger no more if you peel it off or scrape it off with a cheap looking tool. i also heard the best way to do it is using steam. this is wat i heard, i am not really sure if this is a way to do it. i really want to know that if i peel off my old tint, can i still use my heater for the defogger? 
Originally Posted by XanaX00SC
OK...
Peel the original tint off. (it will leave the glue crap behind)
Coat it heavily with 409 (use 409...something about it just works) and place sheets of saran wrap over the 409.
Let the car sit in the sun to bake the crap outta the window for about an hour (windows rolled up)
Now just wipe the glue off and you're done.!!!
This is the trick that the pros use.
**EDIT** ....it may take longer than an hour (I live in Texas where its hot as hell). and its messy....make sure you lay a bunch of old towels down to absorb runoff.
Dont ask me how it works......but it does.
Peel the original tint off. (it will leave the glue crap behind)
Coat it heavily with 409 (use 409...something about it just works) and place sheets of saran wrap over the 409.
Let the car sit in the sun to bake the crap outta the window for about an hour (windows rolled up)
Now just wipe the glue off and you're done.!!!
This is the trick that the pros use.
**EDIT** ....it may take longer than an hour (I live in Texas where its hot as hell). and its messy....make sure you lay a bunch of old towels down to absorb runoff.
Dont ask me how it works......but it does.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Read TechSC's post.....its a more detailed insturction of basically the same thing.
I guess the 409 has heavy ammounts of ammonia...thats why it works.
When you peel the tint.....it leaves the 2nd layer behind. Using the ammonia (409) eats the glue. Although I think that the saran wrap would be eaiser than cutting a trash bag to shape (matter of preference there)
Either way....you wont damage your defroster and you will have a clean window
I guess the 409 has heavy ammounts of ammonia...thats why it works.
When you peel the tint.....it leaves the 2nd layer behind. Using the ammonia (409) eats the glue. Although I think that the saran wrap would be eaiser than cutting a trash bag to shape (matter of preference there)
Either way....you wont damage your defroster and you will have a clean window
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Thread Starter
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: CA
hey, where did u find that post at? can u hook me up? thanks!
Originally Posted by XanaX00SC
Read TechSC's post.....its a more detailed insturction of basically the same thing.
I guess the 409 has heavy ammounts of ammonia...thats why it works.
When you peel the tint.....it leaves the 2nd layer behind. Using the ammonia (409) eats the glue. Although I think that the saran wrap would be eaiser than cutting a trash bag to shape (matter of preference there)
Either way....you wont damage your defroster and you will have a clean window
I guess the 409 has heavy ammounts of ammonia...thats why it works.
When you peel the tint.....it leaves the 2nd layer behind. Using the ammonia (409) eats the glue. Although I think that the saran wrap would be eaiser than cutting a trash bag to shape (matter of preference there)
Either way....you wont damage your defroster and you will have a clean window
Lexus Champion
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,472
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Originally Posted by techsc400
I think that I got this information from www.diytint.com....
Tools:
• Slotted Screwdrivers
• Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Step 8:
Removing tint from side windows Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Step 9:
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly.
Tools:
• Slotted Screwdrivers
• Phillips Screwdrivers
Tips: The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.
Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE: You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.
Step 2:
First, clear the window of any obstructions, like the brake light, speaker covers etc.
Step 3:
Next cut open the garbage bag so that it will be big enough to cover the entire window. Spray some water on the outside of the back window and the lay plastic bag over the glass. Cut away excess plastic so that it is now roughly the same shape as the glass.
Step 4:
Next, lay a tarp over rear deck and seat, spray ammonia liberally on the inside of the back window. (Ammonia is very strong, I suggest you hold your breath during this step) and cover ammonia soaked tint with the plastic bag so that it won't evaporate.
Step 5:
Park the car with rear window facing the sun for about an hour. The film should now be ready to peel.
Step 6:
When you are ready to start peeling, leave the plastic in place so the ammonia wont dry. Get the peeling started with a razor blade in a corner where there are no defroster lines. Try to peel film off in one piece. If the ammonia dries as you peel, the glue will get hard again, so spray a bit of ammonia on the area as you peel.
Step 7:
Once the film is peeled you will need to scrub the adhesive off with ammonia and fine 0000 steel wool. Mop up scrubbed areas with paper towels before they dry. Finish up with window cleaner and paper towels.
Step 8:
Removing tint from side windows Soaking is not nessesary here. You may want to use a simple razorblade holder. Cut a notch onto the upper area of the film so that you have a piece to pull. Try to peel the film, it will probably come off in two or three pieces.
Step 9:
Spray the remaining adhesive with soapy water, and scrape the adhesive off with a razor blade, avoiding the edges of the glass until last to keep the blade sharp. You may need to use a few blades as they dull quickly.
Originally Posted by XanaX00SC
I get mine done from a friend that does it for a living. He did my truck for $70.
Double limo on the rear
15% on front
Double limo on the rear
15% on front
or can he fly out here Cali for my car?
Lexus Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,881
Likes: 1
From: The Shogun's Dojo
Truong, whaddup mang??
I've had the windows of several cars tinted and re-tinted time and time again. The last 2 cars I had used the heater lines in the rear window. I watched the tech remove my old tint using a heat gun of some type. He'd hold the heat gun against the window and spray 409 between the tint and the glass and slowly peel it away. This heat gun looked like a hairdryer actually. After he peled off the film he went over the glass again with the 409 and just wiped the glue off. It looked really simple and easy.
Like someone else said just take your car to a professional tint shop and you should be fine...the only thing is they may charge you for the removal of your old tint, so if that's an issue just remove it yourself using one of these various methods.
Just don't go scraping some kind of tool across your glass or bad things may happen
I've had the windows of several cars tinted and re-tinted time and time again. The last 2 cars I had used the heater lines in the rear window. I watched the tech remove my old tint using a heat gun of some type. He'd hold the heat gun against the window and spray 409 between the tint and the glass and slowly peel it away. This heat gun looked like a hairdryer actually. After he peled off the film he went over the glass again with the 409 and just wiped the glue off. It looked really simple and easy.
Like someone else said just take your car to a professional tint shop and you should be fine...the only thing is they may charge you for the removal of your old tint, so if that's an issue just remove it yourself using one of these various methods.
Just don't go scraping some kind of tool across your glass or bad things may happen